Removing Deck Hardware / What To Do With the Holes???

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by IslanderGuy

I do not quite understand why an impact wrench would take the nut off the bolt without twisting the bolt. Is this just due to the friction on the top, where the sealant is holding the head, and that an impact wrench needs less friction to hold the bolt then a regular wrench?

I see an impact wrench in my future whether I understand the concept or not...

Thanks,
Bryan

An impact wrench makes multiple very short and hard blasts within less than a second. This action, in MOST instances, allows the nut to be broken free without even moving the bolt. I've been using the rechargeable units since they hit the street for bedding and deck hardware projects and have yet to find a situation where it did not work.

If you have a bum thread that sticks or catches that would be an area where the impact wrench may not work and would spin the bolt. Do not over tighten as these things can snap a bolt clean off very quickly. I hit it with just a few short blasts.. Brrr. brrrr, brrr and that's it done!

[LarryandSusanMacDonald]

This is all very well and good, but if you don't have deck leaks, how do you know where to store your buckets?

[Sapperwhite]

What camera do you use? The macro is pretty good on that puppy. sorry for the hijack.

[sailingdog]

Nice post Halekai.

[Stillraining]

Sapper....He runs a Nikon D200...I have the D70....his is 10 mega.pic....mine is 6 other wise virtually identical..

[Sapperwhite]

Originally Posted by Stillraining

Sapper....He runs a Nikon D200...I have the D70....his is 10 mega.pic....mine is 6 other wise virtually identical..

Thanks, I'm going to start a Digital SLR thread to get some insight from the community. I've been doing some research (not very intensive). Hope to get some more info in the Digital SLR thread .....thanks.

BACK TO DECK HARDWARE HIJACK COMPLETE

[T37Chef]

Nice post...thanks for sharing, and great idea! oh, and cheaper toooo

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by Sapperwhite

What camera do you use? The macro is pretty good on that puppy. sorry for the hijack.

StillRaining is right it's a D-200 but don't let the body trick you as it's only half the picture. I was using a 24-70 f2.8 lens this morning when I took those photos and for inside the lazarette an SB-600 flash. The glass (lens) counts as much as the body and more in many cases. I also use a D-70 and leave it dedicated to wide angle work with my Sigma 10-20mm.. 75% of my shots are taken with my 24-70 f2.8 though.. Fast sharp lenses make all the difference!!

[Sapperwhite]

didn't mean to hijack. would you mind contributing to my Digital SLR thread?

Digital SLR Thread

[Maine Sail]

Free sent me a PM and I though this was good info to have in the thread.

Originally Posted by Freesail99

How did you use the butyl tape on the genoa tracks or the traveler? Did you apply it in strips ? My tape is 3/4 and 1 inch wide.

I never re-bedded the track on this boat. It's 29 years old, original and BONE DRY! The track is mounted through a solid glass portion so I'd spot a leak in a split second as there is no core for the water to absorb into.

I have used butyl tape on other boats and here's how I do it and some things/tips I've learned along the way:

#1 Clean the track and make sure it is of the concave bottom type. If it's a flat bottom buy a new track. The concave bottom is designed to capture bedding compound.

#2 Wrap the area where the head of the stainless bolt will hit the aluminum track to prevent galvanic corrosion.

#3 Insert the bolts into the track holes after wrapping the heads and flip it over.

#4 Apply enough strips of butyl tape to the under side of the track to be 1/16" to 1/8" proud being very careful to get good coverage around each bolt. Cut the tape on a plastic kitchen cutting board with a razor blade using a downward "cleaver chop" and not a "pull" through slice as this stuff will stick to the blade as you do a "pull through" slice as opposed to a chop or "cleaver" type slice.

#5 Wrap rings of butyl around the threads of each bolt and as close to the track as possible and mold the to a cone style as I showed in the other post.

#6 Thoroughly clean the deck ESPECIALLY IF SILICONE WAS USED!!

#7 Countersink each hole very slightly using a countersink and REVERSE on your drill. Using forward will make the hole way to big if you are not careful. Contrary to popular belief countersinks work wonderfully, for detail work in fiberglass, in reverse and you won't chew through the deck in.002 seconds while having an ADHD moment..

#8 Set the track over the holes and push down slightly and evenly just until the butyl starts to compress.

#9 Go inside the cabin and install the backing plates/washers and make finger tight only.

#10 Do one more even pressure by hand, above deck, using a 3' straight piece of lumber helps, and then do another finger tight.

#11 Very carefully, and with a short 0.25 second burst, hit the nuts with an even amount of impact wrench. Then wait about five to ten to twenty minutes, depending on outdoor ambient temperature, and hit it again with the impact wrench. Repeat this procedure/waiting regimen until the track is tight to the deck and the butyl has squeezed out. DO NOT over tighten the butyl to quickly! This stuff is as thick as gorilla snot and can literally bend a genny track between the bolts if tightened down to fast. Gentle pressure applied over a period of time with give the best seal.

Once done peel the excess butyl away. One trick I like is to make a ball from the excess and use it to dab up stray butyl. This works very well around the fastener heads in particular.

One other option is to use TefGel between the bolt head and genny track and then butyl cones on the underside. It works well both ways..