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  #41  
Old 06-25-2008
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If you do take this boat out, please wear a pfd. I personally would ripe it out. I ripped out a keel repair done using mat and epoxy. I replaced it with 4 layers of 6.5 oz e cloth wetting it out fully with epoxy. I also used 12 inch wide 9 oz fiberglass "tape". I then put 4 layers of epoxy over the entire bottom of the hull.
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  #42  
Old 06-25-2008
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I'd agree with Free... wear a PFD and file a float plan before going out in it. I would highly recommend ripping out the CSM, since the tensile strength of the sizing is relatively low, and that is effectively the weakest link in the repairs you've made, since the epoxy is bonding to the sizing—not the glass fibers within the sizing.
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  #43  
Old 06-25-2008
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Look, Im not crazy! Ill wear a life jacket.

Ive just been smacking away at that sanded down filler with a heavy screw driver. Feels solid as a rock.

Maybe im just choosing not to hear bad news.

Ive got to think about this.

Ill have another look at the csm when i turn the boat back over.
Might not be to hard to grind that back.

thanks for the advice
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  #44  
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How much force do you generate swinging even a heavy screwdriver. Compare that to the force that is applied when the boat comes down off a wave with two people in it.... one is significantly greater than the other, don't you agree??
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #45  
Old 06-25-2008
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It sucks so bad to take apart work you've done I totally feel for you. If you do end up taking the layers off you can really save yourself some time by using a grinder instead of a belt sander. 40 grit and 10,000 rpm makes quick work of taking down glass. Good luck.
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Old 06-25-2008
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Okay, so this explains why i had one hell of a time making CSM take the shape of the rail on my rowing dink. I did make it work, but it was tough. I covered that repair with fibreglass cloth and epoxy and it seems solid. I also did a repair on the bottom of the bow using a layer of CSM and cloth. Its also solid, i think.
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  #47  
Old 06-26-2008
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Its not chemically bonded but it is structurally bonded.
All that hard epoxy permeating the matt and well keyed to the wood.
Ive ordered some Biaxial Tape 150 mm 450gsm tape to add another layer.
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Old 06-26-2008
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Epoxy CAN NOT structurally bond to mat, and that is the point, we been trying to make. All you have is a surface coating of epoxy over the mat.
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Old 06-26-2008
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I have zero credibility in this thread since I thought mat and epoxy was fine, but I think I understand what stu means. When I used them together, I did fill the void with something hard. I did get the mat wet with epoxy; there weren't bubbles or soft spots. But according to the info I read the other day, the mat was supposed to unbind and have the fibers mix so that they would bond like one unit and I guess that didn't happen.
But stu, think about this (and try it if you're really bored) - if you soak an old sock in thickened epoxy and let it dry I bet you can whack it pretty hard with that screwdriver and it will feel pretty solid. But even the crazy cheapskate doesn't build or repair boats with old socks...
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  #50  
Old 06-26-2008
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I understand what Stu means. I repeat, All you have is a surface coating of epoxy over the mat. It will feel hard but it will not have any strength.
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