Finishing a Cockpit Table

[badsanta]

I lick the table all the time and gnaw a bit as needed, but I prefer a bowl.

[sailingdog]

Might want to re-read what he wrote. He clearly wrote that you should use a FINGERNAIL POLISH BOTTLE FULL OF VARNISH...not use FINGERNAIL POLISH. No one is recommending any one use fingernail polish to touch up or fix anything... BTW, the fingernail polish bottles are perfect for touch ups, since they have a tiny brush in the cap.

The Pardey's mention in their writings that they carry a fingernail polish bottle (the kind with a built in brush) of varnish to fix any chips as they happen to prevent the total ruination of the finish.

Originally Posted by Gary1

It's about as durable as anything can be on a boat, I think. As for touch ups, I'm not sure I'd use fingernail polish. A little bottle of varnish and thinner would probably be better.

[EdHouston]

Ok Guys

Here is the rub! [I]no pun intended OK maybe just a little.
[I]

Take a look at the picture and the little guy’s (first Grandson) reflection, this is my canoe built and finished, just the way Cap’n Gary prescribes, there is no better finish and boy all who see it will stand back in amazement.

Ed
S.V. Moonlight Mile

[chucklesR]

I cheat and use Spar urethane. Goes on easy, comes off easy and lasts for years in my Maryland environment even though it's out in the weather full time.
If you are really lazy it comes in a spray version. It's also cheap.
When the time comes a heat gun and scraper peel it off like it was never there.

Anyone doesn't like my finish eats elsewhere , so far no one has not liked it.

[welshwind]

EdHouston -It is absolutely beautiful...you are absolutely nuts. I would never have the patience to do that (and I'm talking about the canoe in case there is any doubt)

[sailingdog]

Nice job on the canoe.

[westerly33]

Yes, very thin epoxy as under-layer is very good approach but I will say use MAS epoxy, not West System. MAS will not give an amin blush and one does not need to sand first (or second) under-layer. Sand only last layer of epoxy before applying UV protection. See video on MAS epoxy site.

I am very happy with this method.

[Zephyr88]

Originally Posted by sailingdog

Nice job on the canoe.

Amazing job on the canoe.

It appears from the photo that you did not use any type of stapling to keep the cedar strip in place.

Congratulations, quite an achievement to build and finish your canoe the way you have.

To stay on topic.

My dinnig table is finished in varnish and I've never thought about the toxicity issues. I guess that once it's cured it doesn't dissipate any more of the thinners in the varnish.

I read somewhere that once you've given your bright work the number of coats of varnish that you require, you let it sit for about a month (this apparently is time enough for the solvents to leave the surface). Then you can have a two part clear finish (this is nasty stuff, isocyanates) applied over the top of 3 or 4 coats of varnish. Apparently this will not require refinishing for quite some years. We shall see.

You can take your table to an auto spray place and have them clear spray your table. This will produce a surface as hard as that found on car paint jobs.

Don't know about toxicity here, but the solvents in this paint might take a while to leave the surface, before you can use it. Maybe several months, I don't know. The paint manufacturer should be able to tell you how long.

I'm finishing a couple of small pieces of brightwork like this at the moment (a timber cleat and the bracket for the auto pilot, both which I've made), just waiting another week before I take them to the spray painter.

[davidschantz]

cetol is the best solution. it works

[Gary1]

But Cetol is ugly with a capital F.

Just my opinion.