SailNet Community banner
  • SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

seacock seized

4K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  fullkeel7 
#1 ·
Hey guys I found the raw water intake seacock is siezed and the handle seems to have broken off. The issue is I'm worried that when I bleed the injector pump I can't stop the water from being pumped into the engine. I have read that you need to shut off the raw water intake when cranking motor. Well, I was thinking till I get to pull this boat out of the water could I dive down and plug the seacock and install a temp shut off valve on the hose and then remove plug so I can shut of the water? Does this sound like a good idea or do you all know of a better way. The boat is a Bombay Clipper 31 with a Westerbeke L25 and she is sitting in my slip.
 
#4 ·
People have been sailing boats for a long time without motors. I bet you could find a way to a haul out:

Can't you sail to a yard? Or tow with your tender if it's motorized? How about a buddy with a stink-pot to bring you in. Got SeaTow?

I'm not trying to be a wise-a$$ here, I'm just saying you've got some options, bub.
 
#5 ·
Have you got a tidal range that would give you a chance to allow the water-line to drop far enough?

If not...

Measure the size of the hose from your seacock. Get a non-return valve that will fit the hose. Now get a pair of long-nose vice-grips, and pinch the hose shut (or near shut) say 6" from the seacock. Now, with the flow shut off (or near so) by the vice grips, you can cut the hose a little further away and fit your non-return valve. Use hose clips.

Shut the valve, and release the vice grips.
 
#6 ·
Yea, I'm sure I could sail her there without a motor or get a tow however, I have a very narrow channel to get out to deep water and the wind is always on my nose so sail would be risky and tow expensive and haul out would be the time to bottom paint, put antenna on top of mast etc,etc. So I'm looking for a temp fix to tide me over, no pun. Thanks ibdavis I'm sure that's the correct way to go. Rockter just what I had in mind.
 
#7 ·
There is a small nut 180 degree from the handle, is you losen that nut a little, the handle should be able to turn. But I really would haul out and fix this, now.
 
#8 ·
...install a temp shut off valve on the hose and then remove plug so I can shut of the water? Does this sound like a good idea or do you all know of a better way. ..
How about just disconnecting the intake line at the engine, won't it lift up above the water level? Splice in a shut off valve and re-connect to the engine. Its a good idea to replace lines like this one periodically, so add a new one when you do the seacock.
 
#9 ·
It's a bit ironic that there was just a rather lengthy thread on the subject of exercising seacocks on a regular basis. Your predicament is exactly why I always close all five when leaving the boat, opening upon return.

Is the nut the handle attaches too still in tact? If so, apply some anti-seize and then use a wrench.

Another thought is to get some of those wood plugs sold at WM or any chandlery. They are made for plugging through-hull below waterline holes in the unlikely event a seacock breaks off (as happened on my old Santana22). I would see no reason why you couldn't plug it from the other side. You could also remove the hose at the raw water filter and plug that, then crank the motor.

Thanks for proving the point for the other thread that you should ALWAYS exercise your seacocks!!
 
#10 ·
Just a note so I don't seem lame. I just got the boat and I will bet those poor seacocks were never exercised. I so far got two to free up but the rest are seized I will keep lubing and trying and might get them to work. Thanks for the tip about the wrench method, never thought about that. Some great advise and my last boat had all seacocks seized when I got it but all work now so I am a firm believer in maintance. Pitty the PO was not.
 
#11 ·
If you've got a really stiff seacock, don't force it... Pour really hot water over it. That may loosen it up enough so that it will turn properly. Don't bother doing this if it is a gate valve, since you have no idea what the hell a gate valve is doing when you turn the handle anyways.
 
#12 ·
If it's absolutely, positively seized, you can change it with the boat in the water. You need a diver, all of the parts right at your fingertips, and a tube of 5200.

Cut the hose above the valve, stuff something in to to block the water flow (small hose: bolt, larger hose a cheap 'close' pipe nipple with a cap on it, and then tie-wrap it to stop the last of the dribble. If you have a mushroom through hull with a valve on top of it, put a pipe wrench on the part you can see below the valve, and break the valve loose. Gently. If it's corroded on, now is the time for the diver.

Have him put a rubber sink stopper int the through hull from the bottom. They're cheap and easy to come by. With the hole in the hull now suitably plugged, go ahead and disassemble the rest of it. Take the valve off, etc.

If the mushroom fitting is shot, back the nut off. Slather the new fitting up with 5200 and have your diver go down again. Knock the old fitting loose. The dive jams the new fitting in, and stuffs the sink stopper in it. Smear more 5200 around the base where it's coming through the hull and put the new nut on. Put your valve on after putting copious teflon tape, then replumb the motor or whatever.

I didn't say it was easy, I said it could be done without hauling the boat.

Good luck, and look out for Mr. Murphy on this one.
 
#13 ·
If these are the classic tapered plug type of seacocks, you can loosen the nut that is opposite the handle and give it a few taps (ideally with a brass hammer, not that I carry one aboard) to loosen the tapered plug so it can turn. The reason I know this is because.. I have one that gives me trouble.
 
#14 ·
Personally I would NOT 'love tap' a thru hull from the experience I had with my Cape Dory. Both cockpit thru hulls were MASSIVE (for the size of boat) and were made of bronze. When I re-bedded them I found the internal threads all but gone and a wisp of the thru bolts (also silicon bronze) snapped right off. They were verrry easy to remove. :eek: Just never know what your gonna find!:confused:
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top