Changing A Raw Water Impeller (How To) - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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  #11  
Old 07-25-2008
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Originally Posted by Pamlicotraveler View Post
Halekai,

Your illustrated guides are very helpful. Really good. (did you do the stuffing box illustration a while back? You must have. I have saved it and used it)

With the impellor I have avoided changing mine on my Yanmar 4jh because it seems so inaccessible. There is no way you could take pictures like what you have here. I am certain I would drop one of the screws for the plate, or probably the plate itself, into the bilge and that "20 minute job" would ruin a sailing weekend or end up in me utilizing my unlimited Sea Tow policy

I have a spare impeller and the tools to change it, ie bent needle-nose pliers etc, and I think I can do it when I need to. But I really wonder why Yanmar puts the impeller case on the backside of the pump since it considered a maintenance item. It has to be done by feel - at least I don't have any mirrors that would work.

Anyway...thanks for the great explanation and illustration.
Yep that's why I said access is usually the biggest obstacle and to buy some spare screws...

Also if you change it yearly you should almost never have to change it in a sea.. Yannies are tough, but doable, and if you let it get to the point of no return it will take far longer than a changing the impeler to find those impeller pieces..

Remember the one in my article that was cracked was replaced in April and only run with limited flow, never totally dry, and it was still cracked in under 20 hours of use due to heat from limited water flow that still kept the engine cool enough.. Just something to think about..


Cracked Due To Limited Flow

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 10-29-2014 at 06:23 PM.
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  #12  
Old 07-25-2008
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Quote:
With the impellor I have avoided changing mine on my Yanmar 4jh because it seems so inaccessible
If possible, try and duck tape the bottom end of a cut up plastic bottle or container to catch anything, that might fall.
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Hal,

Thanks for another excellent "How To"!

I am quite surprised that little amount of flow restriction did that to your impeller. Not-to=mention kind of concerned. Perhaps it was a defective one?

Pamlicotraveler,

Suggest you stop avoiding it. If the impeller shatters you may find yourself facing the much more difficult job of trying to find all the pieces jammed-up in the various and sundry small passages in your engine block.

Only reason I haven't done mine yet is I'm still working out whether I want to: Just replace the impeller, also upgrade to the new back plate that has an o-ring and captured thumb screws, or upgrade to a whole new pump that does away with the grease cup and snap-ring. PO is "pretty sure" he did the impeller last season, and she hasn't had a lot of hours on her--esp. this season, so I don't feel rushed. But it will have to be done, and it'll most likely get done yet this season.

Jim
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Old 07-25-2008
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My Yanmar 3GM30F also had the pump cover plate on the side facing the engine block. I just loosen the belt and remove the pump with its mounting bracket as one piece. You can then change the impeller and gasket on the table or galley counter. I cannot imagine trying to do it without pulling the pump.

This is very easy to do, with the hardest part being getting the belt tension set properly. I use Bostik Never Seez on the mounting bolts to make sure I can break them loose easily with a ratchet.
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Old 07-27-2008
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Add a light schmear of anti-sieze!

One small addition:

A light coating of anti-sieze on the pump housing where the gasket lands (just on the housing gasket surface, NOT the impeller) will ensure that the whole gasket comes off with the cover. (an old trick often used in the Merchant Marine - it works!). Happy Sailing!
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Originally Posted by BELLATRIX1965 View Post
One small addition:

A light coating of anti-sieze on the pump housing where the gasket lands (just on the housing gasket surface, NOT the impeller) will ensure that the whole gasket comes off with the cover. (an old trick often used in the Merchant Marine - it works!). Happy Sailing!
Never tried that but a cool idea!!

I have tried TefGel but unfortunately it prevented the paper gasket from fully swelling and making a watertight seal..
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Old 07-28-2008
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Halekai-

IIRC, Graphite is more likely to cause galvanic issues than copper or aluminum-based anti-sieze compounds, since it is higher on the galvanic scale than most metals. I seem to remember reading about a problem on CF boats where metal hardware was in contact with CF.
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Halekai-

IIRC, Graphite is more likely to cause galvanic issues than copper or aluminum-based anti-sieze compounds, since it is higher on the galvanic scale than most metals. I seem to remember reading about a problem on CF boats where metal hardware was in contact with CF.

After looking at the galvanic scale again I noticed that silicon bronze is #70 and resides next to most of the passivated stainlesses. Graphite as you know is the most noble element at roughly the #92 spot and copper comes in at #55 less noble than my bronze water pump. The idea is to keep metals as closely grouped together as possible so copper is actually closer to silicon bronze than graphite. I do worry about verdigris and the destruction of the copper behind the gasket though. FWIW I have never had a problem removing gasket material with Scotch-Brite and it takes all of about 30 seconds..

Using an aluminum based never seize puts you very far apart on the galvanic scale (#70 vs. teens) and would be, for me, a last resort.

I've had issues with copper never-seize when used in conjunction with stainless and a mild steel shaft coupling that's why I thought about using graphite. Instead of "never seizing it" it set up a galvanic nightmare and made the shaft & coupling actually harder to get apart. I switched to Tefgel for this and have never again had an issue with getting a shaft and coupling apart for service..
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Great info as usual!!! I've found that doing any kind of work over the bilge will mean that stuff will instantly drop into it. Magnets are useless on stainless steel fittings, of course. I dropped a wrench one time standing at least six feet from the exposed bilge and the damn thing managed to bounce across the cabin and end up in the bilge! Now, whenever I can't find a tool or lost sock, I just look in the bilge. It's probably going to be there! Enuff bilge-rant!!!
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On my Yanmar 2QM15 engine, you have to pull the entire water pump assembly off to get to the cover of the impeller. This also means loosening the drive belt. When I had the engine survey done, the seasoned mechanic told me to buy an extra water pump assembly and a few rebuild kits. His thinking was that it was easier and quicker to just replace the entire pump assembly if the impeller failed, especially if you were underway, needed the engine, and were not in calm sea conditions. He told me to try and imagine having to rebuild the pump in 10 to 15 foot seas when the engine might be needed, and boat handling might require you to be available elsewhere. He said that to pull the broken pump assembly and install the new one could be done in under 10 minutes, but sitting at the table, rebuilding one, would take much longer, especially in rough weather and under stress, especially if the engine was really needed at that time. He suggested rebuilding the broken one later, when time, sea conditions, etc. were more favorable. Something worth considering, since you can't always predict when the impeller will go bad, and chances are it is when you really want to have the engine working.
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