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ablative or hard bottom paint?

6K views 11 replies 11 participants last post by  Patbarbeau 
#1 ·
I just bought a boat and the previous owner does not know the type of bottom paint that is on it currently. Not having much experience with sailboats yet, I am wondering if there is an easy way to identify it?

I might end up removing it altogether, in that case, in your opinion, should I then use hard or ablative paint? I sail in Québec (no salt) and my boat is a 1975 Grampian 26.:rolleyes:
 
#2 ·
We've been happily winning races with an ablative paint for the past 10 or so years. It's easy to prep for, easy to apply, and if you do an undercoat in a different color, easy to see how fast it's wearing. Hard paints seem to work well too, but would appear to need much more attentive surface prep. They seem to be effective, but a lot more work.
 
#3 ·
Ablative paints wear off with the flow of the water. If you hose or powerwash the bottom, you'll see the ablative paint coming off. Hard paints only come off with sanding or blasting.

The ablative paints are great in terms of keeping layers of old paint off the bottom. This makes it easier to keep the bottom smooth, free of the "craters" that flaking old paint leave behind. A light sanding before recoating is all you need.

BTW, I've been using E paint ablative with great results.

Hope this helps.

Skywalker
 
#4 ·
I painted my C-27 with three coats of ablative (West Marine's primium) about a year ago. The paint is just about at the end of it's useful life. I do sail the boat every weekend here in Hawaii, but I'd hoped it would last longer. I'm not sure if this is the norn, but something to consider.
 
#8 ·
Unless you have the opportunity to hit fresh water all the time... I'd have to say hard is the way to go if you are the racing type - at least then you can hire a diver to scrape off the muck before ... soft ablatives are good as well, but scrubbing the bottom takes off that protective layer each time.

Now if you can go into fresh water at certain intervals, then you can balance the costs.. then again if you are just cruising versus racing that accounts for the decision as well. You'll still spend $$$ regardless - how much is determined by the area of water you are in and the ability to reach other areas of water (ie: fresh versus salt), and how hardcore a sailor you are in terms of performance...

Generally speaking for most, ablatives are cheaper overall unless you are about speed, then hard is the way to go.
 
#9 ·
One thing to watch out for is that if your Grampian has the OMC saildrive then the copper-based anti-fouling paints are not recommended because of the electrolysis. It does a number on the casing of the OMC saildrive which was notoriously bad.
I have the same issue - Nash 26 with a saildrive and need to remove the copper based antifouling that the previous owner used. I'll do that in the fall when the boat is hauled.
Tom
 
#12 ·
One thing to watch out for is that if your Grampian has the OMC saildrive then the copper-based anti-fouling paints are not recommended because of the electrolysis. It does a number on the casing of the OMC saildrive which was notoriously bad.
Tom
Thanks Tom for that piece of info (and everyone else too). My boat is in fact equipped with an OMC saildrive motor and I was unaware of that potential problem...
 
#11 ·
I have applied Sea Hawk "hard" ablative this time. The soft ablative was only lasting one year - we sail about 4000 miles / year. The hard ablative is made for boats that travel faster than most sailboats. It is a harder finish but is still an ablative paint. So far the paint is preforming well. Unfortunately, next time I will have to change from Islander 44 to their new Biocop as the ban on tin-based paints is spreading worldwide.
 
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