Deck Refinish - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 19 Old 08-08-2008
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Paint over filled holes before you drill new ones. If you filled correctly it won't matter if they line up after painting. Besides you may want to reconfig the deck layout or buy new hardware that you aren't planning on currently. You can then;
-tape the mounting area over the paint/nonskid when complete.
-then drill oversized holes, that way when you fill/redrill/bed/mount, you won't get epoxy or sealant on your new paint. I'm mounting a primary today and the pics/ procedure will be my next entry.

The only holes I didn't completely fill and fair were the deck organizers, because I knew I was reusing them, and I wanted to keep a reference to their mounting locations. 4 months later I've decided to buy new ones and the holes don't line up. In hindsight I would've filled, faired and painted over all the old holes.


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post #12 of 19 Old 08-08-2008
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5200 is perfect if you don't ever want to remove what you glued.
Here's a pic of what 5200 will do if you carefully remove it. Notice the gelcoat missing from where the trim was mounted on the companionway? The port trim is still attached in the pic for reference. It took me 15 minutes to get the piece of teak off. I was trying to salvage it. It still came off in pieces, and there was gelcoat attached to it.
boat+001.jpg (image)


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Last edited by mangomadness; 08-08-2008 at 04:53 PM.
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post #13 of 19 Old 08-09-2008
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if you read the lable

If you read the lable 5200 is ONLY recomended for wood and fiberglass. I can't be any more clear.
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post #14 of 19 Old 08-09-2008
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There was a thread about using using butyl tape. It looked like a good way to go
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post #15 of 19 Old 08-10-2008
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Funsail-

What it is recommended for and what it sticks to are totally different things... let me refresh your memory. You said:

Quote:
3M 5200 only sticks to wood and fiberglass
Which is complete BS... 5200 sticks to pretty much everything...

Quote:
Originally Posted by funsailthekeys View Post
If you read the lable 5200 is ONLY recomended for wood and fiberglass. I can't be any more clear.

Sailingdog

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post #16 of 19 Old 08-11-2008
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is the butyl tape ok to use? i am looking to rebed my chain plates and wondered if it was OK
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post #17 of 19 Old 08-11-2008
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I wanted to use it,(BUTYL)but I bought too much 4000UV.
BTW, sailingdog, I tried the impact driver tip and I still spin the screws. Is there a trick?, or does the tape hold the head enough for it to work. I was using 3m sealant and locking nuts(nylon).


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post #18 of 19 Old 08-13-2008
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Aside from the vagaries of 5200 (which I agree with Sailingdog about) Have you decided what deck paint your using? I'm currently ding the same job as yourself but have not decided on a paint..............suggestions anyone?.......(that was a silly question I bet)
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post #19 of 19 Old 08-13-2008
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I would use awlgrip if you want to roll and tip because with the brush converter and reducer it's easier to work with(relatively).

I would use awlcraft if you wanted to spray because of the repairability (awlgrip is difficult to cut and buff research the subject).

In any case , if you wanted to get the most out of your time prepping, I would definetly go with a two-part poly paint. If you research the subject the process isn't scary or out of reach.

Check the links at the bottom of my blog for a lot of awlgrip and painting lessons learned and photos.

Here's a link to a great awlgrip thread.
The AWLGRIP Knowledge challenge - Boat Design Forums


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