Deck Refinish

[Bermuda30]

Alright, here's the deal:

I'm about to embark on the lovely task of refinishing my deck. Paint, non-skid, rebedding/adding new hardware. Currently my game plan is:

-Strip all hardware.
-Fill all unused holes with thickened epoxy.
-Overdrill, pot, and redrill all holes that will take new/reused hardware.
-Paint deck/nonskid.
-Rebed and mount all hardware.

My questions are:

1) What product is best used to rebed the hardware, such as stanchions, organizers, traveler standoffs, ect? 3m 4200? 101?

2)Anybody know the correct procedures for rebedding the chainplates? they enter through the deck and mount to interior bulkheads.

I'm sure there will be more to come. Thanks in advance for any help.

[GBurton]

I would use polysulphide on anything you want to remove at a later date.
Chamfer the edges of the holes so that when you bolt the item down the polysuphide formes a gasket around the bolt/screw

[sailingdog]

Don't use polysulfide-based sealants on anything plastic, since it tends to attack plastics. I'd use 4200 or 4000UV instead of polysulfide, since it is safe for metals, wood, plastic, fiberglass.

Countersinking all the fastener holes, so it forms a "natural" o-ring is a very good idea. However, if you do that... don't follow the older practice of tightening the screws partially and then waiting for the sealant to cure... just tighten them all the way down to begin with.

[GBurton]

Hopefully none of your deck hardware is plastic
Usually manufacturers instructions are for those of us who think they know better

[sailingdog]

Lots of deck hardware, like most line clutches, have plastic components, which would be damaged by a polysulfide sealant. look at the spinlock, lewmar, etc. line clutches... plastic housing are the norm...

Originally Posted by GBurton

Hopefully none of your deck hardware is plastic
Usually manufacturers instructions are for those of us who think they know better

[GBurton]

I'm not suggesting that Bermuda 30 slather the polysulphide over the plastic components.....unless the bolts/screws that go through the deck are plastic?

Originally Posted by sailingdog

Lots of deck hardware, like most line clutches, have plastic components, which would be damaged by a polysulfide sealant. look at the spinlock, lewmar, etc. line clutches... plastic housing are the norm...

[sailingdog]

GBurton-

The casing on the line clutches I mentioned are PLASTIC... so the sealant that goes between the deck and the hardware would kind of have to be touching it..

[funsailthekeys]

3M 5200 only sticks to wood and fiberglass 4000 polyester adhesive sealant sticks to thru hulls,mechanically fastened joints on wood or fiberglass, metal and most plastics. The list is much longer but you get the idea. The 4000 is pretty much an all around sealant.

[mangomadness]

Seriously check out my blog and the links at bottom of blog for alot of insight for the same project.
-I used 3M 4000UV for all hardware/stanchions.
-I used silicone for portlights/windows

There's a post in my blog with picks on the chainplate procedure, also in this link.
EPOXYWORKS

Good luck and take your time, it sucks and won't be a quick evolution.

[sailingdog]

Are you serious??? the problem with 5200 is that it pretty much sticks to everything, far too well, to be considered less than permanent. You might want to read a bit about the product, PDF HERE. 3M 5200 is often used for hull-deck joins as well as keel-hull joins... not ideal IMHO for either use, since it is far too aggressive an adhesive... but still.

Originally Posted by funsailthekeys

3M 5200 only sticks to wood and fiberglass 4000 polyester adhesive sealant sticks to thru hulls,mechanically fastened joints on wood or fiberglass, metal and most plastics. The list is much longer but you get the idea. The 4000 is pretty much an all around sealant.