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Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest Forums > Gear & Maintenance
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  #21  
Old 05-28-2010
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I made a solid wood tiller out of mahogany. I hand-selected the wood, and found a plank with the grain that curved just where I needed it to curve. Using the old tiller as a pattern, I made the new tiller slightly thicker than the laminated one, to increase it's strength. IMHO, with it's added thickness, it was much stronger than the old one, looked beautiful, and had a hefty feel to it.

Finding the raw mahogany was the hard part. After that, it was a simple winter project.
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  #22  
Old 05-28-2010
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A baseball bat for a tiller handle......hmmmm....... I had one made into a coat/hat hanger when I was younger. Loved that thing. Made one later for my sons.........

For that use, why not! Not sure I would want one on say a westsail 32 or equal bigger boat. But a smaller 20 something boat, what the hay.

Then again, some TP52's re coming out with tillers more than wheels. IIRC one yr had 12 made, 11 were tillers vs one wheel steered! Grant a TP 52 is a 52' sport boat for the races that are being done in the med, not for trans-pac races as originally designed........tillers appear to be metal or composite from pics.............

that is as far as i will comment from a 2 yr old thread being revived! LOL along with my 8' pram I built as a teen had a solid tiller, my stepdads 21' boat he built was also solid intially, until a shop class I had in 9th grade, I made a laminate tiller. My tiller on my 30'r is solid now that I think about it..........a laminate would look better........hmmmmmmm... dang it, another project to worry about.......... shoot the person for bringing the thread back up, or better yet, Hit him with a baseball bat!

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  #23  
Old 09-02-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEMIJim View Post
In my exceedingly short experiment with wood working, during which I did a lot of studying, I learned that a properly made up, properly glued joint, using modern glues will exceed the strength of the surrounding wood. (Excluding end-grain surfaces, of course.) I also learned that even the most perfect-looking piece of straight-grained wood can have hidden defects (knots, pitch pockets, grain anomalies) that will only be revealed when you try to work the wood (uncovering them), when it unaccountably moves or warps later on, or when it fails under load. Also there is the question of grain orientation vs. load direction. Lamination, properly done, solves all these problems.Jim
This is the main reason we use Glue Laminated beams in construction. The other being that a camber (arch) can be engineered into them. Spans are achieved with Glu Lams that couldn't even be considered with a regular timber beam. Interestingly, they (wooden beams) are more fire resistant than steel beams. But then...I digress far off topic. If the fire resistance of your tiller becomes an issue, something has gone horribly wrong!
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  #24  
Old 09-02-2010
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I don't know if it was mentioned.. but KEEP A SPARE TILLER ON BOARD!!!
yes I yelled
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Old 11-03-2010
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Interesting thread..
I just bought a Holder 17 and the tiller just seems.. I don't know, unconvincing. Its a small boat and of course, has a not very long tiller.

I suspect I will spring for a laminated tiller at some point. However, I had a long hard look at some axe handles, so I was interested in the wheelbarrow/baseball bat idea. Has anyone actually tried these "alternate" approaches?
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Old 11-04-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tazsprout View Post
Interesting thread..
I just bought a Holder 17 and the tiller just seems.. I don't know, unconvincing. Its a small boat and of course, has a not very long tiller.

I suspect I will spring for a laminated tiller at some point. However, I had a long hard look at some axe handles, so I was interested in the wheelbarrow/baseball bat idea. Has anyone actually tried these "alternate" approaches?
"A not very long tiller"?...Oh yeah, we used to call that - short! The Wheelbarrow handle would be more than strong enough, but may be tough to find new. For 17 feet, I would think you could find shovel or post hole digger handles that would work for about ten bucks. You'd probably want to cut a few feet off, then simply mill the end to fit in your hardware.
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