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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2008
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Gordo-

Polishing the fuel consists of taking the fuel and running it through a set of filters repeatedly to get rid of any contaminants. Best to have the tank cleaned and the fuel polished at the same time... and then you'll have nice clean fuel and no gunk in the tank. BTW, if you have water in the tank, that is reason you get sludge, since the growth only can occur at the water/diesel interface—no water, no growth--=> no sludge.

BTW, one good emergency tactic for a dead engine and lee shore is using your anchor. The boat is really only in danger if it can hit shore... and if you have a good anchor and can get it down and set... you'll be much better off, since that gives you time to fix the dead engine. This is one major reason you should always have an anchor close at hand and ready to go... having to haul one out of the bilge and attach it to the rode can often take long enough to leave you screwed.... To drop the anchor on my boat, I have to uncleat the anchor rode, untie the anchor safety line...and lower the anchor.
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Last edited by sailingdog; 08-19-2008 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 08-19-2008
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You should also check the o-ring or seal on your fuel fill port to make sure water is not entering your tank at that point.
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Old 08-19-2008
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I agree with everything that everyone else said, but will add the there is a good possibility that there is a screen on the fuel pickup in the tank. I highly recommend permanently removing the screen and letting the fuel filters do their jobs.

On both by 80's vintage Sabres, the screen on the pickup becam clogged while underway. When the engine stopped or reduced RPM, the decrease in suction allowed the engine to either restart or increase RPM until the cycle repeated. On my current boat, I pulled the screen during the first month of ownership and immediately sucked a bunch of crud into my Raycor. It's been clean ever since. It's much easier to replace a filter than to pull the screen and clean it!!

I recommend an algicide to prevent algae buildup and a full tank during winter layup (or anytime else) as others recommend.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2008
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If you get rid of the water, the algae isn't much of a problem. I'd rather solve the problem than try and fix the symptoms.
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Originally Posted by Sabreman View Post
I recommend an algicide to prevent algae buildup and a full tank during winter layup (or anytime else) as others recommend.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
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Old 08-19-2008
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Polishing is just running the fuel through filters repeatedly to get the gunk out, you can do it with or without additiives.
I recommend you go to your local NAPA or other auto part store and purchase a diesel fuel rated 12v pump. Then get hoses and fittings as needed as well as a good primary filter.
What you are going to do (to plan your parts list) is wire the 12v diesel rated pump (20 gal per hour will do, about 25-30 bucks) to a 12v power supply - either on the power panel or a 12v plug (cigarette) type if you have one. You are going to mount the pump on a 12 x 12 inch piece of plywood, next to it and connected to it via a short piece of A1 rated (fuel) hose you mount the primary filter. On the intake to the filter you attach a length of hose that is long enough to go into and to the bottom of your fuel tank.
On the output of the pump you attach another piece of hose that goes to one of two places, your existing fuel return line, or you put it back into your tank.
When you power up the unit it will suck fuel into the filter, clean it, suck it thru the pump and then return it back to the tank. Start at 80 microns and run it long enough to get all the fuel, then run it again a 20 micons.
lower micron polishing is up to you. Put a stick in the tank and stir up the muck at the bottom if you feel the need.

google "diesel fuel polisher", eyeball the 1000 dollar units for sale then marvel at my 75 dollar build your own set up. Send checks for 25% of the savings to me care of paypal.

Oh, another secret - get the valves and hoses at your local hardware store, not the marine store - if it's a temporary unit plastic valves are okay otherwise go with bronze or brass (no spark). Your hardware store will sell the valves for 5 bucks, WM will want 20, each.


If you want to get fancy you can install that in line with your existing system using valves to direct the flow of fuel either 'normal' or through the polishing unit. You can even install a piece of hose and valve so that it goes thru the polish unit and then into the 'normal' filter and from there runs the engine. The advantage there is the pump will then push fuel through your system and be self bleeding like mine is.

Your yanmar uses as mechanical pump that runs off a cam on the engine, engine not running, fuel isn't pumped. Having a 12v powered positive pump that drains unused fuel back to the tank also makes it self bleeding talk about confidence then
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Old 08-20-2008
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polish = filtering (alot)
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I think cleaning the fuel may be the easy part. Cleaning the crud out the tank will be more difficult. It may involve cutting more access ports into the tank. Removing the tank from the boat and steam cleaning the inside would be good (if it's possible to remove it). Maybe someone can suggest another method.
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Old 08-20-2008
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I think if the tank can be removed fairly easily I would do it and clean it out, otherwise I would just keep a close eye on the fuel filters and water separator if you don't have to change/drain them every other time you go out I would just let them do their jobs. I think putting additional holes in the tank just introduces another possible source of contamination.

Once the water separator reaches it's limit the engine will shut off and run no more until it is drained. Water does not compress well and can cause serious damage to the engine . The fuel filters on diesels are much finer than those on gas engines so they can clog fairly quickly as well but it would give you warnings before it shut off with a loss of power and poor idle.
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Old 08-20-2008
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I bought a product that you apply to a wooden dowel and stick into your fuel tank and it change from a brown color to a bright red color if there's any water at the bottom of your tank. I went on line and just googled (fuel water paste) and this should get you to there site.

Mike
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