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  #21  
Old 08-22-2008
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I should be able to run from there to my water heater and back.
If you ran a hose between the two then you wouldn't have to scoot around all the time...
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  #22  
Old 08-22-2008
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Quote:
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If you ran a hose between the two then you wouldn't have to scoot around all the time...
Plus burning yourself slopping pans of hot water between the two.

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The heat exchanger seems to do a fair job of heating the water - although we've only tried it a couple of times to deteremine if it does work.
I don't have success yet. But 52c is a hell of a lot hotter than 90f. If I can heat up the motor, heat up the water and wait for the wind to heat up, it's one more thing off the "make this work" list.

I'll take some pic's of the setup so you can see how easy (he say's before it's done) it is.
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  #23  
Old 08-22-2008
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Chris -

The most difficult part of the job may be removing the air-lock from the coolant loop. On some boats it's easy and on others it can take hours. Good luck.
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  #24  
Old 08-22-2008
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Running the hot water heater as you run the motor prior to anchoring would seem to be one way of approaching the situation. If the WH is in decent shape, it should keep the water hot enough until you're ready to use it. I have a hookup for the heat exchanger on my boat, but it doesn't get the water much past tepid (raw-water cooled Yanmar).
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Old 08-22-2008
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I have a Raritan heater and a Westerbeke 4-107 engine. The heater installation recommendation for the engine heat is the only valid use for a gate valve on a boat that I have seen.
Because the engine cooling water gets too hot to use for domestic hot water, you can control this by installing two tee's with a gate valve between them. Put this into the engine cooling line running to the heat exchanger. Run hoses from the tees to the hotwater heater. Now you control the amount of water flowing through the heater by the amount the gate valve is closed. Just watch out for the fittings - they get hot!!
Also the install instructions recommend a direction of flow for the engine water (I have forgotten which direction now). I think this partly addresses the issue of clearing any air bubbles from the lines. But I also had to install a tee with a plug in the branch into the top hose going into the heater since it is higher than the engine. When changing coolant I can crack open the plug to let the air out.
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  #26  
Old 08-22-2008
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Replaced the Raritain for an atwood on my boat about a week ago. I've a Universal diesel, the hoses are 3/4 ID the connections to the new at wood are 5/8 id, other then that and and burping the air from the lines from the Htex loop it works great. Don't forget to be sure the water heater is secure because when it has water in it it's heavy 6 gallons alone are close to 60 lbs.
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I am not tapping into a closed system, so there is no need to worry about air in the lines.

I had thought about a bypass valve, but 52c is 125f which is perfect temp. A little too hot, but with losses in the hot water heat exchanger it should be fine.

The tank is original and mounted about 50 inches from the engine in the sail bin, but the heat exchange was never hooked up.
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I must have missed something. I though you said you did have freshwater cooling. Maybe you mean freshwater cooling as in the lake.
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Old 08-23-2008
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Thanks for all the input. I picked up all the parts yesterday and should be able to put them in tomorrow.

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I must have missed something. I though you said you did have freshwater cooling. Maybe you mean freshwater cooling as in the lake.
I am in fresh water, but I thought I was clear.

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So I'm thinking about running the engine raw water cooling circuit over and back. Not sure if my Yanmar will support this, but I'm looking for input from the experts.
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I have the 2QM20(h) which does not have a fresh water cooling system.
Chris
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Old 08-23-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gc1111 View Post
Because the engine cooling water gets too hot to use for domestic hot water, you can control this by installing two tee's with a gate valve between them. Put this into the engine cooling line running to the heat exchanger. Run hoses from the tees to the hotwater heater. Now you control the amount of water flowing through the heater by the amount the gate valve is closed. Just watch out for the fittings - they get hot!!
In my home hot water system, I plumbed in a thermostatic mixing valve that allows me to turn up the water heater as high as I want, but limits the temperature to 120 degrees at the tap by mixing in some cold water. A higher tank temperature effectively gives me more gallons of hot water.

As I recall, the valve was less than $100.

I plan to do the same thing when we convert to engine-heated water on our sailboat.
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