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  #31  
Old 08-24-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gc1111 View Post
I have a Raritan heater and a Westerbeke 4-107 engine.
I'd love to know more about exactly where and how you tapped off of that engine - and returned flow back to it after the water tank run. I have a 4-107 and believe the PO did a poor kludge job of it. If you could be very specific, even take some pictures, I'd be very grateful.

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Old 08-24-2008
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Here are some pictures of my heater install plumbing. The flow is from left to right. It comes off the exhaust manifold, through the tee-gate-tee setup and exits on the right side to the main heat exchanger. I'm in a bit of a rush now so I don't have time to annotate the pics, but ask any questions you have.
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ok, i was going to remain quiet, but now you have me worried. Is that water heater upside-down? That's just what made me type....the rest of the thread is a little concerning, too. Be VERY careful if you're going to interrupt the engine's "fresh water" cooling cicuit - that's the one with antifreeze in it - not the one that takes in 'fresh' lake water. If you block the flow of that cicuit, you could overheat, and BLOW YOUR ENGINE. This can happen very easily due to air in the new hoses, as mentioned above.

Now, if what you're doing is interrupting the 'raw water' circuit - the one that suck water from the outside of the boat - there is also risk. The risk of using THIS circuit is that salt-water, to the extent you boat floats in it, MAY corrode the guts of your water heater. If this happens, you could end up pouring raw water into your bilge at a rate that overcomes your bilge pump. The potential result? - glug glug glug, bye-bye boat.

Happy to clarify if you wish.
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Old 08-25-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gc1111 View Post
Here are some pictures of my heater install plumbing. The flow is from left to right. It comes off the exhaust manifold, through the tee-gate-tee setup and exits on the right side to the main heat exchanger.
Ok, I think I see what you're doing. And your Perkins somewhat resembles mine - which helps! (I've seen so many variations so unlike each other). I'm on the boat tomorrow so I will look at what I might do. The PO had a tap off the top of the block near the back which I think is where the temp sensor alone was supposed to be. I disconnected the hose and closed off the tap when I took the hot water system out. Plumbing was so weird I decided to start over rather than fix what he had done. I like that you are diverting the main flow and then returning it just a few inches down the path. I guess if you turn the gate valve to "open" that the full flow pretty much goes direct to the heat exchanger? Do you screw it down to full "close" for the bypass or only partly?
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Old 08-25-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pub911 View Post
....the rest of the thread is a little concerning, too. Be VERY careful if you're going to interrupt the engine's "fresh water" cooling cicuit - that's the one with antifreeze in it - not the one that takes in 'fresh' lake water. If you block the flow of that cicuit, you could overheat, and BLOW YOUR ENGINE. This can happen very easily due to air in the new hoses, as mentioned above.....

This isn't a big issue. When you plumb a water heater into the fresh water side from the engines heat exchanger YOU DO GET AIR in the system. The plumbing and heater were dry, so you can expect quite a bit of air actually. Just run the engine for a few minutes to draw antifreeze/water mix into the system, then top off with more antifreeze/water mix. Repeat as nessecary. Get to the point where you are maintaining a normal cold level in the heat exchanger with the engine and heat exchanger actually cold. I do this every so often with maintenance like freshwater pump impeller change (get lots of air in every time).

Hopefully someone would respond to the overheat audible alarm and indicator lamp (provided you have that) before you "BLOW YOUR ENGINE".
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ok, i was going to remain quiet, but now you have me worried. Is that water heater upside-down?
I wondered if anyone would pick that up. No the heater is right side up, just the access cover plate is upside down. I did that at one time because I had trouble getting a screwdriver at the screw holding in on. But since then I have changed other things and that is no longer a problem.
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Old 08-25-2008
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Quote:
I like that you are diverting the main flow and then returning it just a few inches down the path. I guess if you turn the gate valve to "open" that the full flow pretty much goes direct to the heat exchanger? Do you screw it down to full "close" for the bypass or only partly?
If I recall the install instructions correctly, start with the valve full open, bring the engine up to operating temp, then close the valve and watch the engine temp. When/if the temp rises, back off a little. Then keep an eye on it under usual operating conditions. If the engine runs hot, open the valve a little. Just remember that it is HOT at that point.

It takes relatively little flow to heat the water in the heater. More flow just increases the rate of temp recovery when new water is drawn in or at first engine start.
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