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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 08-25-2008
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Congrats on the new boat

If you have a racor, I would say, change the filter (2 micon) and the engine fuel filter, engine oil and filter, check that valves are free, and fire away.

Although I would drain and clean the tank on any used boat I purchased, shortly thereafter. I would also check for cracks in the fuel feed, return and vent lines which gives me a good excuse to change the feed, return, and vent lines so there is no gunk in the system. But I am kind of special.

The fuel does have a lower cetane level if it has been sitting for 1 1/2 years
Dirty fuel will damage the injector pump as well as the injectors.
If you get no or low fuel flow with a 2 micron filter, replace the fuel pump.

I would think that Fuel polishing the 10-14 gals in the tank should cost more then to drain and replace.

Also the onboard "add a electric fuel pump" recirculating fuel polishing systems work great on a small tank like yours, and also bleed the system easily.

Congrats on the new boat
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Last edited by Grumpymx; 08-25-2008 at 05:16 AM.
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  #12  
Old 08-25-2008
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If you haven't bought the boat, it's not your boat. Fire it up and don't worry so much. If the whole engine blows up, it's not your problem. It seems that the majority of sailors in most of these forums worry about things that are either fixable or aren't going to happen.

...and I'm worried about it!!!
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Old 08-25-2008
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Rockter will become famous soon enough
Sample the fuel from the bottom of the tank. If it's clean, use it, if not, you will have to get rid of it.
Do not dump the fuel unless you know it's contaminated. Life it too short for doing that unless you have to.
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  #14  
Old 08-25-2008
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StillRaining...you must be from Florida as its been raining here for the last 2 weeks....anyway...In my younger years as a commecial pilot, we would never think of flying with out draining condensation from the tanks every time we flew. Its surprising how much water will condense in a gas tank....do you think it would be wise at this point to put some anti microbial additives in the tank before or just go for it with a handfull of replacement filter elements?? I agree...we all spend a ton to make sure we remove any water or other contaminants from the fuel in the way of filters...why not put them to the task...I ll probably go that route...clean the filter first...start er up...and run for a while and see what all collects in the filter bowl.

Thank you all for the good feed back...Like I said, Ive been boating all my life...this is the first diesel boat Ive ever owned...

Next on my list is having the yard re step the mast...any idea what that should cost....Im thinking 4 manhours at the going rate of $85/hr...thoughts/???
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My thoughts:
If you have GOOD off-engine fuel filters, add some ctane enhancer and start it up. Run it for a while, then check (or just change) the filters.
Be prepared for getting clogged filters the first time you take it off shore or otherwise get the boat moving around a lot. There will be crud in the tank that gets stirred up.
If you have any question about the filters, replace them before you start it up. By this I mean entire new, modern filters. But be aware that the Racor filters with the plastic see-thru bowl are not allowed on CG inspected boats unless they have the optional heat shield. You probably do not need CG certification, but I feel more comfortable following those guidelines.
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Old 08-25-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennismenace111 View Post
StillRaining...you must be from Florida as its been raining here for the last 2 weeks....anyway...In my younger years as a commecial pilot, we would never think of flying with out draining condensation from the tanks every time we flew. Its surprising how much water will condense in a gas tank....do you think it would be wise at this point to put some anti microbial additives in the tank before or just go for it with a handfull of replacement filter elements?? I agree...we all spend a ton to make sure we remove any water or other contaminants from the fuel in the way of filters...why not put them to the task...I ll probably go that route...clean the filter first...start er up...and run for a while and see what all collects in the filter bowl.

Thank you all for the good feed back...Like I said, Ive been boating all my life...this is the first diesel boat Ive ever owned...

Next on my list is having the yard re step the mast...any idea what that should cost....Im thinking 4 manhours at the going rate of $85/hr...thoughts/???

LOL....I'm afraid you cant hold a candle to us here in the PNW as far as the rain department goes..

Im not much for additives unless there is cause for them..You said the engine is pristine...I would guess the fuel system to be likewise...have spare filters ..watch your racor..go bounce around and watch your racor some more.


BTW I use to fly also...

I once bought a ski boat that had sat a couple years..leaves and debris had blocked the bilge drain and the boat, trailer sank. After I cleaned out the boat I set to work un-seizing the motor..the fuel tank was plum full ( 35 gallons ) not wanting to cut up the floor to remove the fuel tank with the bow up a few degrees I disconnected the fuel line and hooked it to a electric fuel transfer pump I extracted 15 gallons of water before getting pretty clean fuel..I reconnected the fuel line...put on a new spin on filter... put on a water muff and fired her up..after a short 5 min run in, I pulled the filter and dumped it out into a clean glass jar...there was maybe two table spoon of water with the fuel which was darker then new fuel but smelled strong and gasie. I headed to the lake WITH the kids...and a half dozen new filters ready to go...I also took along a 1 gal gas can to fill new filters with...no priming needed.
After a stop a the gas station to top off with new fuel We skied all day..I had to replace 3 filters...I just watched my RPM and when they droped even a tiny bit I shut her down and spun on a new one...they would be about half full of water and a little gunk in the water...the fuel looked pretty darn good.

Still have the boat...Still having fun...



Quote:
Originally Posted by gc1111
But be aware that the Racor filters with the plastic see-thru bowl are not allowed on CG inspected boats unless they have the optional heat shield. You probably do not need CG certification, but I feel more comfortable following those guidelines.
As far as I am aware that rule is for gas inboards not diesels..if not there sure are a lot of boatyards breaking the law out there...
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Old 08-25-2008
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The fuel in our Soverel 48 is about as old or older but there is 250+ gallons on board; most say dump the fuel - with fuel prices as they are, I don't think so. (250gallons x 420.99 gal = $1057) The solution I found was to add an algaecide and a cetane additive/booster and then polish the fuel. A dual Racor setup (1000ma) would be my first choice but my budget says no-way. I purchased two Fram Marine fuel/water separators on EBay for $28 plus shipping plus the fittings to pair them up; I also have a Racor 500fg; I'm going use the Framís /w 30 micron filters and a small pump on the downstream side of the filters to circulate the fuel from the tank through the filters and back into the tank to polish the fuel; then Iíll place my Racor 500fg with a 10 micron filter and polish the fuel further. When itís all said and done I could use a 2 micron filter in the Racor but "I'm not at that point yet"... Filter, filter, filter, filter, filterÖ

To clean the fuel tank I'm planning on moving the return hose while polishing around the baffled tank as best I can to stir it up while the Fram filters are attached to suck up and filter tank bottom water and particles. I took a sample from the bottom of the tank with a suction oil changing pump and it looked great.

If there is not much fuel - dump it, purchase a quality tank wash ?? and start fresh. There are many water/fuel separators out there that are under $100 but the replacement filters themselves are about $39. The Racor 500fg filter is $10 but you can expect to pay around $200 new and $100 used for the Racor 500(ma or fg) filter unit itself. On a smaller engine like yours, I'd go with a >$100 fuel/water separator. There should be fuel filter(s) mounted on your engine but I would still have an external fuel/water separator.

Filter, filter, filter, filter.

My end setup will be the Framís (10 micron) mounted between the main fuel tank (268 gal) and the day tank (28 gal), the Racor 500fg (10 micron) between the day tank and the Ford Lehmanís fuel filter(s). The engine has its own filter and that will be a 10 or 2 micron. I will also be installing an additional return line/valve/pump at the Framís so I can filter any new fuel I take on board. Over kill? Maybe, but Iím hoping the fuel problems I will encounter are going to be plugged filters and not clogged lines and injectors.

Bruce & Lisa
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  #18  
Old 08-25-2008
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Quote:

As far as I am aware that rule is for gas inboards not diesels..if not there sure are a lot of boatyards breaking the law out there...

This rule does apply to diesels where the filter is in the engine compartment. All metal filter bodies are accepted. It is a fire issue, the plastic can soften and melt in excessive heat. This would "add fuel to the fire".

Nobody is breaking the law by installing these. It is just that they will not pass CG inspection for boats requiring CG certification. Check with your local ferry boat operator.
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Old 08-25-2008
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Originally Posted by gc1111 View Post
This rule does apply to diesels where the filter is in the engine compartment. All metal filter bodies are accepted. It is a fire issue, the plastic can soften and melt in excessive heat. This would "add fuel to the fire".

Nobody is breaking the law by installing these. It is just that they will not pass CG inspection for boats requiring CG certification. Check with your local ferry boat operator.
Ah...So what your saying is for commercial passenger carrying certification...like charters?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillraining View Post
Ah...So what your saying is for commercial passenger carrying certification...like charters?
Right. It is just that I feel safer following the more stringent rules. In this case the added cost is minor.
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