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post #21 of 25 Old 08-25-2008
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Right. It is just that I feel safer following the more stringent rules. In this case the added cost is minor.
What would be the cost? Installing a non-see-thru filter with metal body? How would you check filter condition (unless you are ready to take it apart every time)?

That and fuel lines which are made of rubber, run in that same engine compartment and would melt just the same. The rule may make sense for large boats with real separate compartments for things, but for a small (i.e. say under 40' sailboat) it likely makes little difference.
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post #22 of 25 Old 08-25-2008
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What would be the cost? Installing a non-see-thru filter with metal body? How would you check filter condition (unless you are ready to take it apart every time)?

That and fuel lines which are made of rubber, run in that same engine compartment and would melt just the same. The rule may make sense for large boats with real separate compartments for things, but for a small (i.e. say under 40' sailboat) it likely makes little difference.
I just looked at the Racor Web site to get an idea of the cost. All the diesel fuel filters they have in current production that are likely to be used on a sailboat have all metal bodies. (i.e. the 100, 200 and 400 series). The Turbine series (meant for larger engines) now ALL have the metal shield as standard equipment.

I have sailed for over 15 years in my current boat, using FRAM filters with all metal bodies. Checking filter condition has never been an issue. I ran into a problem (overtightened a bleed screw and stripped it) last summer so I replaced with modern Racor filters.

If you are that concerned about the state, loosen the plug on the bottom, catch some in a cup, and look at it. I have found generally that doing this once a year (on recommissioning in the spring - when I just go ahead and replace the filter) is sufficient. If you are getting fuel in the US or Canada, there is almost never a problem. However to cover things when I go abroad I have a vacuum gauge on the fuel line after the filters. This gives a quick and accurate warning when filters need replacing.

If you use "rubber" hose for fuel you are going to have trouble. Use fuel rated hose which will withstand fuel additives and has heat resistant specs.
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post #23 of 25 Old 08-25-2008
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Diesel fuel is the same as heating oil (close to it. Note oil. It stays for a long time. Does anyone worry about there heating oil going bad? I would fill the tank add some fuel conditioner and call it a day. Change youre filters sooner rather than later.
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post #24 of 25 Old 08-25-2008
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dgmace...an oil BURNER is just a tad different than a diesel engine that relies on micro tolerances and compression to ignite the fuel. Not a good analogy. Water does not ignite when compressed and algae clogs very expensive injectors.

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post #25 of 25 Old 08-25-2008
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Also, an oil-burner failing isn't as likely to get you killed as a diesel engine failing when you need it in a storm. The house will be cold, but that is pretty easily remedied using blankets, sweaters and space heaters.

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