Cost to do a proper varnish job - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #1  
Old 08-28-2008
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 239
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
LittleWingCA is on a distinguished road
Cost to do a proper varnish job

Hi Everyone:

I currently have my 1980 Orion 27 hauled out to have a thru hull and seacock replaced ( Posted a picture in another thread and a few people were highly concerned ). While it is out, I had the yard quote me on what it would cost to strip all the brightwork down to wood, apply 8 coats of varnish with sanding between coats, and do a final top coat, detail, unmask, etc. The boat is 27 feel long and here are the pieces they were going to redo:

Cap Rails, Eyebrow Trim (2), Bow Sprit platform, Companion Way hatch, Top Grab Rails (4), Flue Bases (2), Hatch Base, Sampson Posts (2), Chain Plate Standoffs (2), and the Cockpit Table.

No wood repair, or color matching, or bleaching of wood.

The estimated labor was 400 hours @ $63/hour for $25,200 and $770 for parts. OUCH!! I guess they really don't want to do the work. Does this seem correct? I will do it myself, but what have others paid to have this done? I called the project manager assigned to my boat to make sure it wasn't a typo on the estimate, and he is serious.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

LittleWingCA
1980 Pacific Seacraft Orion 27
Sailing Grounds: Southern California
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #2  
Old 08-28-2008
zz4gta's Avatar
I don't discuss my member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Chesapeake Bay
Posts: 2,462
Thanks: 0
Thanked 22 Times in 22 Posts
Rep Power: 8
zz4gta is on a distinguished road
I'll do it for $40 and hour with the same time estimate. Varnishing is a huge PITA and that's why production boats are plastic. I put 13-15 coats on mine, and I have very little teak. Took forever, and it stopped being fun after the first 5 coats. That is an incredible quote, reinforces why so many just oil their teak and give up on varnish.
__________________
Merit 25 # 764 "Audrey"
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #3  
Old 08-28-2008
SVDistantStar's Avatar
'72 Pearson 36
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 497
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 9
SVDistantStar is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to SVDistantStar
This is why i have very little teak outside and it looks like crap.

This is 90% of the teak on my boat.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1972 Pearson 36 S.V. Distant Star
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #4  
Old 08-28-2008
camaraderie's Avatar
moderate?
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: East Coast
Posts: 13,877
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 15
camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough
May I suggest you sand it down...put on 2 coats of Cetol Natural teak and 2 coats of Cetol gloss with NO sanding between coats. Should run you about 60 bucks in materials and 3-4 days of work. Results look quite nice and NEVER require sanding again...just light scrubbing and a touch up coat or two of gloss once a year.
__________________
No longer posting. Reach me by PM!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #5  
Old 08-29-2008
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 239
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
LittleWingCA is on a distinguished road
Camaraderie:

Any pictures of what it looks like? What are the benefits of Teak oil? Can that be applied after the Flagship Varnish is stripped off?
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

LittleWingCA
1980 Pacific Seacraft Orion 27
Sailing Grounds: Southern California
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #6  
Old 08-29-2008
KeelHaulin's Avatar
STARBOARD!!
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,662
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 10
KeelHaulin will become famous soon enough KeelHaulin will become famous soon enough
First off; they don't want to do the work or they would not have given that ridiculously high quote. Second; prepping for varnish or Cetol does take time but it is not super hard and can be done in sections (you don't have to do everything at once). I would sand or heat-gun remove everything you can at the yard then do the application of finish while in your slip. If you don't want to paint everything at once (time/temp/wind conditions might not allow it); you can do a final prep (tape, light sand and and acetone wipe) on one section and varnish it while the others weather lightly. Being in So Cal you should have way more time/opportunity to do the finish work than here in Nor-Cal or where it snows in the winter.

You can use teak oil; but the wood will weather/gray from sun and mildew growth. Personally I prefer finished teak on the rails and all non-walking surfaces; decks should be left natural for traction.

Cetol is excellent IMHO; the "natural teak" color is outstanding. You don't need 4 coats of base color, 2-3 looks best IMHO with the clear gloss used as topcoat and annual maintenance coat. Do a search on this forum for Cetol; there are some pictures in the threads.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #7  
Old 08-29-2008
JohnRPollard's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chesapeake
Posts: 5,680
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 10
JohnRPollard is a jewel in the rough JohnRPollard is a jewel in the rough JohnRPollard is a jewel in the rough
Littlewing,

That's a ridiculous quote. They must not need or want the work.

Good advice above. We are using Cetol Light and it's a pretty decent finish (we started with it before the new "natural" color came out). I actually prefer the look of varnish -- but the Cetol's a lot easier to maintain.

Our boats have a fair bit of teak trim. I've found it's easiest to work on it in segments. This makes the tasks more manageable, with the downside that we never have all the teak looking "bristol" at the same time. Oh well, that doesn't really bother me.

P.S. Does anybody know whether we could switch to the new "Natural" Cetol without stripping al the old "Light"?
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Pacific Seacraft Crealock 31 #62

NEVER CALLS CRUISINGDAD BACK....CAN"T TAKE THE ACCENT
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #8  
Old 08-29-2008
camaraderie's Avatar
moderate?
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: East Coast
Posts: 13,877
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 15
camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough
LittleWing...here's a shot of my toe rail done in Cetol as described above but using Cetol and Cetol Gloss instead of Cetol Natural and Cetol Gloss. Helped on another boat using the Cetol Natural last summer and it looks even better and closer to varnish.
My decks are just bare teak kept in shape with salt water. Anything else just becomes a pain. Some folks use teak oil on decks because it looks nice when you do it. Unfortunately, the oil holds dirt and pollution and gets really ugly rather quickly. I prefer to just leave it alone but the saltwater is critical to keeping it well preserved. Don't sand or use harsh chemicals on deck teak ...just boat soap and a reasonably soft scrub brush to clean it up and then let nature (and salt water) do the rest as keelhaulin says above.
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/buying...tml#post259546
__________________
No longer posting. Reach me by PM!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #9  
Old 08-29-2008
camaraderie's Avatar
moderate?
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: East Coast
Posts: 13,877
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 15
camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough
JRP...you CAN switch but the wood grain will be more obscured. Are you using the gloss on top? If so, that will need to go before switching the bottom coat.
FWIW..."light" with gloss looks pretty good too just not quite as good...but I sure wouldn't sand down to bare for the minor improvement!
__________________
No longer posting. Reach me by PM!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #10  
Old 08-29-2008
imagine2frolic's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,830
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 7
imagine2frolic is on a distinguished road
And if you don't get in a rush. Most likely yourwork will be as good, and probably better than the yards........BEST WISHES...I2F
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Eye-splicing lines... beatkiddo Seamanship & Navigation 11 09-20-2006 02:28 PM
Superfluous Sextant? akoutdoors1 Seamanship & Navigation 4 08-10-2006 11:51 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:49 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.