Order of Operations for Deck Paint/Non-Skid?

[BlueVeins]

First: boat is 1968 Del Rey 24. Same as a Columbia of the same year for all intents and purposes.

Looking for some validation or correction before it's too late.

I am stripping my boat deck this weekend and plan to repaint the deck with Interlux perfection next weekend. I'm using a vulkem polyurethane 2 part primer with a two process coating for non-skid. here's the order I was planning:

1. Strip paint completely (using a bio-friendly soy based product-marina safe!)
1a. not sure if i'm going to strip all hardware. we'll see.
2. Fill gel-coat cracks and imperfections with epoxy
3. mask and prime non-skid areas tight to waffleboard sections on deck with special two part primer for vulkem material
4. install first coat (uv stable for many months) rubberized compound keeping within masked lines set prior to primer.

Since the first coat can stay as is for a while without covering, I was then going to start with Interlux products.

5. Remove masking and prep boat for Interlux primer (still debating removing all hardware). The important thing to note is that I want to overlap my rubberized compound with interlux primer.

6. Install ALL final coats of Interlux Perfection (Color: Platinum. I know it doesn't make a difference, but I'm excited...sue me) again, i want to overlap the non-skid areas. thinking min. 1/4", max 3/4"

7. Then the final touch would be to install the textured coat of the vulkem overcoat. I would prep, sand, roughen, etc all the overlapped paint to the original line i masked to so long ago before rolling any materials on.

8. someday go sailing again.

So the idea behind all this is that i want to minimize migration of moisture under my new (hopefully) beautiful paint/non-skid job. Hence the overlap of the paint sandwiched between the two non-skid layers.

That's the question I'm posing. Is that necessary, or will it end up being less stable later, or does it not matter?????

I've put a lot of thought and energy into this and i'm starting to second guess my process. The manufacturers are scant on details like this, especially when not using their products from start to finish; I should note here that the reason for my decision to use vulkem (tremco.com) instead of Interdeck is that their final coats are 100% UV stable unlike Interdeck and i'm not into accelerating the inevitable entropy of my handywork; I've seen the chalky finish on a few-month old interdeck install and I don't care for it.

Any suggestions are welcome here. Although I am in the construction industry and understand the processes and materials, I have never painted a boat. My boat is 40 years old and I want this paint job to last at least until i upgrade myself to another vessel in need of a paint job...

I guess I should also mention that for me, part of the relaxation i get from doing anything is linked directly to the work that I put into a project and the quality of the outcome. I do need to balance that though with the reality of only having weekends to work on this project, so I feel that this is the most complicated I can handle as far as processes go and "professional" painting is not an option either.

Thank you in advance for your input!

[sailingdog]

Two things:

First, if you can remove all the hardware, do so. It will result in a much better and longer-lived paint job, since there will be fewer points for water to enter between the paint and deck.

Second, I wouldn't bother overlapping the paint onto the non-skid area. Doing so may interfere with the non-skid bonding properly, since it may not stick to the new paint all that well. If that were the case, you'd effectively be insuring that the top layer of non-skid lost it edges. It is designed to adhere to the specialized primer, so it should be put on the specialized primer without anything between.

[BlueVeins]

That makes good sense. If that's the case then, would you suggest completing the paint (all but last coat) before starting the non-skid, or is this an ok sequence. I guess the problem I have with my own plan now is that I will have to spend the time twice to mask off the same line but from different directions.

[sailingdog]

The vulkem undercoat shouldn't have any issues sticking to a good paint job... so I wouldn't bother masking off the non-skid initially, while you're painting the topsides and deck. Go a few inches into the non-skid area with the topsides paint. Then, when you're done painting the topsides/deck, mask off the non-skid areas, sand the paint there lightly to de-gloss it.. and then paint with the vulkem first coat, and then finish with the textured overcoat.