HELP !!!! Repainting fiberglass deck.

[stevenderossett]

I've stripped the bronze hardware off my 44 yearold fiberglass deck(1966 Wayfare bahama islander) and am ready to repaint. I'm not sure what type of paint was used by previous owner. The gelcoat is worn(or sanded) down to fiberglass in several places. I'm not worried about boat being in showroom condition just want it to look clean & decent. I have lots of small areas where the old paint is peeling but also the original fiberglass nonskid area has peeling paint. What is the best way to remove this paint? I'm planning on using brightsides one part on deck & two part on topsides. Again I want it to look decent but with a minimum of time & money. any input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks

[Gary1]

Steven,

If you're going to use anyone's two-part paint, you need to get all of the old, soft enamel off first. Modern linear polyurethanes have stuff in them that will eat enamel to pieces, cause it to lift, bubble, and dozens of other Bad Things.

The other thing to consider is that two-part paint is expensive, even when 'you're in the business', like I am. If you're planning on putting a two-part paint on the topsides, I would seriously recommend that you start out with at least one, and preferably two or three coats of Awlgrip 545 primer/sealer. It's a two part primer that will seal just about anything up from the finish coats. It's fairly forgiving, and lends itself well to rolling and tipping. The nice thing about Awlgrip's primer is that it works well as a base coat under anyone's two-part paint.

Some of my friends have been experimenting with Sterling paints, and tell me that it's a lot easier to put on the finish coats than it is with Awlgrip. I've prowled Sterling's website, and they have a lot of useful information for the do-it-yourself type.

Someone here will probably be able to help you with a good stripper. Fortunately, I haven't had to get into that particular mess in years, so I don't know what works and what doesn't. sorry.

good luck, and when you have enough posts, show us a picture of the boat.

[poopdeckpappy]

Aqua Strip or peel away works pretty good, ( I've use the latter )

I also used brightside on the deck of our 69 Islander excaliber, came out very nice, also used the non slip additive to the brightside and that also came out very nice

[mikehoyt]

Interlux has a two part primer for putting over unknown paint prior to applying 2 part paint. Not sure how it works over enamel but I used before applying Interlux 2 part on my last boat and worked well. I just sanded off or sanded smooth the old paint to remove any failing areas. Interlux has a 1-800 number you can find on their website yachtpaint.com - the website of International and Interlux paints

Its a big job but will look fabulous.

Mike
Nut Case
J27 #150

[catamount]

I used Pettit's one-part Easypoxy for the "skid" portions of my deck, and KiwiGrip for the non-skid portions. The whole deck was primed with Pettit's high-build primer.

FWIW, the prep and priming is documented here: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyh...-09/index.html

and the actual painting is documented here:
http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyh...-10/index.html

As I understand it, the Easypoxy is not as hard or tough as a two-part paint would be, but it should be much easier to touch up any scratches and dings over time. The KiwiGrip has so far been fantastic as a non-skid -- I have been very happy with it and highly recommend it.

(no affiliation with any vendor, yadda yadda)

[vadimgo]

I tried to do that a year ago. The bottom job (sanding off the old and putting the barrier coat etc.) ate my time so I left the deck and finish the topsides only.
In my experience, good sanding and Interlux 2-part primer applied with foam roller (no need to brush-tip...) will get you the proper surface. Any problem areas could be corrected by wetsanding with 320 grit. When the primed hull looks good, follow with the paint. I tried to follow the manufacturer's advice and the results were OK.
The temperature/humidity/sunlight are really important (the way the paint flows and dries). I did the first coat in the morning in shade, made some mistakes with the brush and consistency, and started the second coat with good intention to do it better this time. But afternoon tunderstorm added to the strong sun screwed me absolutely.
So,
no wind, no sun, no unexpected temperature changes, second person with some ability with good brush - you could do the first coat (foam roller, followed by tipoff brush) so-so, then correct the amount of thinner and or flattening agent (if any) and the next coat will give you a great hull.

There was a guy doing his powerboat next to me in the yard. His approach was one part epoxy paint (I do not remember which) rolled and when it hardends after couple of days, light buff with the polisher. In his opinion it was the best way for a great hull with less work/money.