Pearson 30 motor questions

[lynger1]

Stop mucking arond just get a 18Hp Yanmar inboard diesel motor
they wil give you many years of happy motoring
and uses 1.5 L/ph at 6Knots cruising speed
Money well spent
Lynger1

[Pteropod]

You might look into a "Electric Wheel" system from Solomon Technologies (or some sort of similar system). It will cost you about as much as, or a little bit more than, a small diesel; but think of the bragging rights you'll have!

[stsomewhere]

I just had my Atomic 4 rebuilt (valve job and general clean up and repaint). It is hard to beat a 30+ year old engine that just now needed some work, and that is because I probably had bad gas. I have only owned the boat for 2 years and the engine started on the first try after sitting idle for almost 4 years.
Stick with it and attend the Moyer Marine spring workshop. It will be worth it!
David H.
Crownsville, MD
Pearson 30 #889

[Pearsonistic]

Speaking of longevity in marine engines. I find it astounding that these engines can suck up algae, kelp, jelly fish, etc.; run it through the engine and out the rather complicated exhaust/water system and not get fouled or clogged. Everytime I look at my temp gauge I expect to see it overheating. Has anyone heard of a cooling system getting plugged up and overheating? Seems that any stray floating plastic bag could do the trick!
Does the strainer/filter need to be cleaned every once in a while?
Any thoughts on a freshwater cooling system? Pros/cons?
What about adding a valve to flush the engine with fresh water when it's back at dockside so that sea water isn't sitting in the engine?

[Rockter]

I think I would have put the motor back in again.
With correct fuel safety, it should be ok.
If you are going to leave it for a while, shut off the fuel and run the motor until it stops.
This will keep the fuel level low in the carb bowl and keep it from gumming up the jets. On motorcycles, this is a constant problem when the motor is stored, and solved easily beforehand by the "run it until it stops" trick. Let it gum up, and the carb jets will need poked out with wire.

Change the oil regularly and the motor should last a long time....

Good Old Boat: Atomic 4 Engines by Jerry Powlas

Spare parts will not be that expensive either.

.

[CalebD]

I am starting to come round to Rockter's way of thinking that shutting off the fuel valve and burning up all the fuel in the line above the carb. is the way to go. My A4 is from 1967 and still kicking over nicely.
Personistic,
Glad to hear you got a rebuilt A4. There was a good chance that you could have got that old block kicking again but so be it. I assume that Moyer took your old engine?
Anyway, I know you spent some large boat bucks on the A4 replacement but now that you have done so you might consider putting in a heat exchanger and let your engine cool with fresh water/antifreeze - this will protect the engine block cooling passages from saltwater degradation and your engine will last longer (as if they can't last a long time with good maintenance anyway). Moyer Marine Online Store
Yes, your raw water strainer can get clogged by a plastic bag if the engine is running/sucking and it can get partially clogged by marine growth. Check on this when the water is warm enough to do so.
The Moyer A4 manual suggests that you install a 'T' valve fitting on the raw water intake so that you can run the engine on fresh water when on the hard or at the dock if you so desire. I think you should consider this as it is cheaper then the fresh water cooling system @ $700. My boat came with this adaptation and there is a garden hose input fitting on deck outside the cockpit coaming that will allow fresh water to be cycled through the cooling system. The only caveat here is that you should not put any FW hose into your engine at full blast as the pressure will likely backfeed into the cylidars and you will have new, bigger problems to worry about. I always use a 5 gal bucket and allow the water pump to suck the water out. I use some hot water hose and surgical hose to connect the garden hose fitting to the 5 gal bucket. Sometimes I have to prime the hose with liquid but once it is set it works like a charm.
It would likely have cost you twice the amount you spent for a new diesel engine replacement. Now you have basically a 'tractor' engine that is about as simple as they come and it is pretty easy to learn all about them. A new diesel would have been a different devil to get to know. Some of the parts of each are common but others are very different (gas vs diesel).
If you are not already a member over at the Moyer community forums I suggest you join tomorrow.