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post #21 of 28 Old 09-04-2008
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2 8Ds as a starting bank? Yeah, that seems overkill even to me...and I like overkill...

As for Trojans, when I bought my boat, they had ancient 105s in them that still held a charge despite being (I estimate) 18 years old! Even if they were babied and maintained, that's still insanely good.

But you should be aware that most battery brands are merely that: brands, and that the number of places building batteries in North America is relatively small. I don't know if Trojan builds in-house, so to speak, but I do know that an outfit called DEKA/East Penn Manufacturing makes on contract a lot of the more common brands, and I hear good things about them.

Marine Batteries and Boat Batteries - Gel Batteries, Gel Cell Batteries and Dominator - AGM and AGM Batteries

It pays to do research. Sometimes the batteries made for server farm UPSs or trucks are fine for house banks, and offer a wider variety of sizes.
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post #22 of 28 Old 09-04-2008
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I went the large alternator with 500 amps of house bank, inverter, Link monitor and battery combiner. We have about the same equipment on board. We cruise on and off, longest single run 9 months and the rest of the time bay sailing with the boat in a slip on shore power. While cruising, it is rare that we used less than 150+ amps in a day so we charge pretty much daily to stay in 80-50 discharge profile. I chose AGM because the lay on their sides in the bilges and they take the large 220 amp output of the alternator at a faster rate than do flooded or gels.

If we were cruising more permanently, I would add some solar panels.

Just an example of real world amp use.

Good luck.

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post #23 of 28 Old 09-04-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halekai36 View Post
Because I had it left over from a previous boat I sold. I also like it's user friendly menu system, the back lighting options and it's slightly lower draw. I still have the Link 10 as a back up and yes it does everything the XBM will. I have both and as personal preference I prefer the XBM to the Link..
Ah...Ok Thanks Main..

What do you know about the TM 500A? Any benifit of going that route. I have two banks now and will be adding a third once I install the windless

1) Start.....Group 31
2) House........4 Trogen 6v
3) Windless...Still reserching rather 12 or 24v but battrie/s will be bow mounted.


Jeezz--Louezz..2 8D's is what my D6 Dozer uses..thats 200 horse..

Last edited by Stillraining; 09-04-2008 at 02:17 PM.
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post #24 of 28 Old 09-04-2008
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I noticed that Sams has started carrying 8d's (wet) and Optimas. Just thought I would throw that out for those in the market for cheap batts (though Optima is not cheap).

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post #25 of 28 Old 09-04-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillraining View Post
Ah...Ok Thanks Main..

What do you know about the TM 500A? Any benifit of going that route. I have two banks now and will be adding a third once I install the windless

1) Start.....Group 31
2) House........4 Trogen 6v
3) Windless...Still reserching rather 12 or 24v but battrie/s will be bow mounted.


Jeezz--Louezz..2 8D's is what my D6 Dozer uses..thats 200 horse..
1) Start.....Group 31 = No need for a battery monitor
2) House........4 Trogen 6v = Should have a monitor
3) Windless...Still reserching rather 12 or 24v but battrie/s will be bow mounted. = Can go either way as some anchors don't set first try and the batts will see multiple attempts and other "good" anchors do?

My bow thruster/windlass bank on my power boat never once dipped bellow 92% of charge so I think windlass or start battery monitoring are a little over-kill but more so the start.

For example starting my 44hp Westerbeke does not even register .1 amp hour of draw off my house bank...

If I get on my boat and start my engine when my XBM says 100% Battery Full I can start the engine and it still says 100% battery full and also does not register any consumed amp hours. Engine starting is a VERY, VERY minimal consumer of amp hours. Sure my engine takes about 140 cranking amps to turn her over but it's for about 3 seconds then she fires up. Spending big bucks to monitor this is kind of like wiping your butt with $20.00 bills...

I may be wrong but I think the TM 500A is an older product left over from a buyout or merger with Trace. It will only do slightly more stuff (mostly useless any way) than an XBM or Link 10 yet it costs more and takes up significantly more Nav station wall space. They don't come standard with a shunt and as far as I can remember & only monitor one bank.

You might even consider the new Link Lite. I read about it a while ago and don't know if it's shipping yet or what the price is. It looks like a scaled down XBM with no computer hook up (read useless anyway)..

Xantrex LinkLite

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 09-04-2008 at 03:24 PM.
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post #26 of 28 Old 09-04-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halekai36 View Post
1) Start.....Group 31 = No need for a battery monitor
2) House........4 Trogen 6v = Should have a monitor
3) Windless...Still reserching rather 12 or 24v but battrie/s will be bow mounted. = Can go either way as some anchors don't set first try and the batts will see multiple attempts and other "good" anchors do?

My bow thruster/windlass bank on my power boat never once dipped bellow 92% of charge so I think windlass or start battery monitoring are a little over-kill but more so the start.

For example starting my 44hp Westerbeke does not even register .1 amp hour of draw off my house bank...

If I get on my boat and start my engine when my XBM says 100% Battery Full I can start the engine and it still says 100% battery full and also does not register any consumed amp hours. Engine starting is a VERY, VERY minimal consumer of amp hours. Sure my engine takes about 140 cranking amps to turn her over but it's for about 3 seconds then she fires up. Spending big bucks to monitor this is kind of like wiping your butt with $20.00 bills...

I may be wrong but I think the TM 500A is an older product left over from a buyout or merger with Trace. It will only do slightly more stuff (mostly useless any way) than an XBM or Link 10 yet it costs more and takes up significantly more Nav station wall space. They don't come standard with a shunt and as far as I can remember & only monitor one bank.

You might even consider the new Link Lite. I read about it a while ago and don't know if it's shipping yet or what the price is. It looks like a scaled down XBM with no computer hook up (read useless anyway)..
10-4..will go with Link 10 or XBM then and stick with 5$ bills that way Thanks...
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post #27 of 28 Old 09-04-2008
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Two 8D's for starting?

I think what my boat had was two banks of roughly equal size, one newer than the other. 2 8D's or 4 GC2's each give you about 450 amp hours at 12v. They would then alternate house bank on one and then the other. It's an alternative approach.

I went a different direction when I replaced the 8D's with smaller batteries dedicated to starting mostly because I wanted less than 900 AH of total capacity to maintain. At 1% per day that's 9AH I have to replace each day when they sit idle, which is hard to do with solar in a Northwest gray winter.
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post #28 of 28 Old 09-05-2008
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Wouldn't you be more likely to have a wind generator in the PNW if you were on a mooring?

900 Ah of battery capacity is pretty significant. Do you have a large boat or lots of appliances?
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