Trying to get an older Universal diesel running...experience appreciated! - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 23 Old 09-07-2008
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Thanks for the book tip. Just found and ordered it on Half.com for about 20 bucks.
Let me know what you run into as you get your motor back in shape.
This forum is great.............
CB
What I'm learning is that it appears as of some experts are learning on the job.
I , with help from a friend who worked at a yard, replaced the exhaust on the boat for the captain. I was told to put it together dry, without Teflon as the Teflon would melt in the heat.
It was better but then seemed to be leaking again. We took it to the yard and he said that the exhaust pipes were hand loose. He said you have to use Teflon. This is the same guy with 40 years experience that trained my friend 2 years ago to put them together dry.
My friend noticed a loose engine mount bolt but let it be as he was concerned that tightening it without aligning the engine could cause trouble. The yard guy just tightened it.
We have been getting significantly different advice from people who should know what they are doing.
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post #12 of 23 Old 09-07-2008
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Ya here is a post I recently made on another thread regarding exactly that question..

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=Stillraining Ya.. its called trial and error school..the trick is finding a yard that has all the trials and errors out of the way already...
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post #13 of 23 Old 09-07-2008 Thread Starter
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Great news for me!

I went to Advanced Auto Parts on the way out to the boat this morning and bought a remote starter like Stillraining suggested yesterday. While I was attempting to hook it up the starter and solenioid I noticed a wire to the solenoid was missing. Fumbling around abit I found it and plugged it back on, turned the key and whirwhirwhir, the engine turned over easily!

Found both fuel lines and looks like If I install a tank, change the filter, bleed the system, I might get it to pop!

Any other suggestions?

CB
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post #14 of 23 Old 09-07-2008
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You might want to pull the injectors and send them out (to any diesel shop) to have them checked. Sitting for a couple of years without having been mothballed, they may have corroded a bit even if they were clean, and having them serviced will assure you that's not going to be a problem or performance issue.
Not necessary--but a way to make sure 'everything' is right. Also check the procedure for bleeding your fuel lines (which you will have to do) and if that requires any crush washers, order a box full of them. They are strictly "use once and replace" and you'll often get air in the fuel lines if you don't replace them. Cheaper by the dozen.
And you might want to remove the fuel lines and blow them out, if they weren't capped or plugged. Little critters like spiders tend to nest in open lines and pipes--you don't need that in your fuel lines.
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post #15 of 23 Old 09-08-2008 Thread Starter
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Okay, now how about replacement tank? Would a modified plastic outboard tank work?
or a buck fifty for something like this:



is there a difference between a GAS and DIESEL tank?

You have all been a wealth of knowledge. Surely someone has replace a fuel tank before.

Thanks,
CB
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post #16 of 23 Old 09-08-2008
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The difference is that a diesel tank must have a return from the engine for excess fuel that is all.

Rick

You might try here for an exact fit.

Tempo Products 2004 Catalog

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Originally Posted by countrybumpkin View Post
Okay, now how about replacement tank? Would a modified plastic outboard tank work?
or a buck fifty for something like this:



is there a difference between a GAS and DIESEL tank?

You have all been a wealth of knowledge. Surely someone has replace a fuel tank before.

Thanks,
CB

Last edited by timebandit; 09-08-2008 at 10:33 AM. Reason: add link
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post #17 of 23 Old 09-08-2008
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The engine is almost certainly a Universal 5411. You can download the manual at the Catalina 30 owners website.
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post #18 of 23 Old 09-11-2008 Thread Starter
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Thanks Jim, I did download a copy of that manual.

Is anyone else familiar with this engine? The manual shows a mechanical fuel pump between the tank and filter, but this is what I see. Here is the fuel filter. The newer looking black line comes from where the fuel tank was. There is no pump in between the the phantom tank and the filter that I can see. The older copper painted line comes out of the filter and I think goes into the round mechanism in the next picture which I believe is the mechanical pump.




It looks like this might be a fuel pump? between the filter and injector pump? Not where the manual shows it. Does the pump suck fuel through the filter instead of pushing it through the filter? Or should it be sucking from the tank and pushing it through the filter enroute to the injector pump?




This most certainly is the injection pump:



Is this hooked up correctly?

Last edited by countrybumpkin; 09-11-2008 at 04:54 PM.
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post #19 of 23 Old 09-11-2008
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The approximate center of your second photo is your low pressure fuel pump (aka lift pump). It's the round hockey puck shaped thing. Your last photo shows your high pressure pump (aka injector pump) at the bottom left. The high pressure fuel lines come up out that the injector pump and lead to your injectors.

The correct order is tank, primary filter (Racor or something), lift pump, secondary filter (the white spin on filter in your photo), then the high pressure pump, and then to the injectors. You may have a return line circling back in some where or it may go straight back to the tank.

It looks like someone has been bleeding air at the top of the high pressure pump based on the paint removed there. There is no reason to do that.
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post #20 of 23 Old 09-11-2008
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The left pump has a rubber diaphragm. They don't last forever, and you can't rebuild them as they are pressed together.

You may already know this but you should treat the low pressure system and the high pressure system completely independently. You have to bleed the low pressure system first, before the high pressure system. Assuming the engine has been running...and you only change filters or work on the low pressure pump, you only need to bleed that system, you do not need to bleed the the high pressure system. Spending time bleeding both is a common mistake.
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