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Old 09-21-2008
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What polish and wax you recommend?

Initially I was just going to send Halekay, the paint polish guru, a pm.

Then thought if I did that I was being selfish, so I am in for your recommendations and ideas, please. Including Halekay, that I hope replies to this post. This way we all learn and this can be shared.

I think, (and it's my own opinion), that paint, and electricity are the most boring things I have on the boat, so I don't care much about it and thus don't pay much atention to it so i know not much about it either.

Here is the deal. My boat is starting to show some use, in the form of dings and scratches all over the cockpit, seats and cabin..

As you may know, appart from the hull, she was not made in a mould. As a consequence, she is completely painted, and does not have gel coat unless in ceratin areas of the hull, bellow the shear line. Above that it's all painted.

Therefore, the cabin, cockpit etc. is all painted (I am not exactly sure what paint, but I am almost sure its something like your Awlgrip), and with the use its getting scratched and in some a little dull, nothing serious but with some sun angles you can see the shine is a little gone..not too bad, but gone.

I also know that in the US one can have available the best polish and finishing products in the World..with me in the US, well 2+2=4...I can buy it here...however, I prefer you recopmmend stuff you can buy at homedepot or other places for auto finish, rather than marine speciality stores, as I am in Wyoming, and there is no Westmarine here. Unless off course your recommendation can only be found at marine stores, in such case I will order over the phone.

Here's the deal.

We have this guy (from Russia) that is unemplyed and all our family hires him to do all kinds of work, so he can survive, so I was thinking, I could give him some work and have him polish the boat for me in a few weeks.

He is quite handy but stubborn as hell, and therefore I am not willing to give him a power tool and a buffer, (just in case he gets carried away and rubs all of the paint off - I know him...I know how eager he is to do a good job....so..no power tools for him)...and would prefer a elbow grease application. Besides with a power tool all the teak will get splashed, unless you can recommend a procedure to do it (keep it simple), and I will get him a buffer and power drill.

What I would like to have you recommend is a brand or product to first polish the paint and give it a nice shien, then a protective wax to keep it shinny.

HOWEVER I DO NOT want a product that later in life I have to remove or I have to paint or whatever (like varnishes or other)...just polish, and wax...simple apply in cloth, rub wax off...done.

I appreciate your help with brands, and if possible where I can get..home depot, wallmart etc.

Thank you very much


C'mon Halekay...give it to me...remember, hand application. Unless you say it should be power applied, then I'll do it.
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Old 09-21-2008
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my boat is painted aswell.no gelcoat.
i find that automotive products seem to work better than marine products and i have tried them all.
this year i have used meguiars and they have been very easy to use products with amaizing results.this is a full days work on my boat (with 2 people and 2 high/low speed buffers).
so first i wash the whole boat to get all the nasties off with this:
then i cut the paint with this:
Meguiar's Direct Ultra Cut Compound -
and then my final coat (which has a blinding shine) is this:
Meguiar's Direct NXT Generation® Tech Wax® 2.0
for the duration of the year if i see and dirt or lines on the hull i use this:
Meguiar's Direct Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer™
i see you want him to do it by hand,but he will probably have a nervous breakdown by the time he finishes the first side.this process is alot of work.
i bought a dewalt high speed buffer with adjustable rpm range.
i bought the pads and backing plate from a detailer supply store.the pads go on with velcro.
when i use the cutting compoiund i use a #2 foam pad (#1 for a really hopeless hull) on my buffer at 650 rpm,when i move up to the final coat i use a #3 pad at 500 rpm.
only do small spots at a time or the wax will burn into the paint and then it will be a real bitch to get off the wax.
the quick wax should just be sprayed on and wiped off by hand with a very soft rag or cotton cloth.
when im done i get a low speed orbital buffer with brand new white pads and go over the whole boat.this will get anything i missed and give a better shine.
warning-you may never see your russian freind again after this.
if you do get him a buffer make sure you get one with adjustable rpm and explain to him the lower the rpm,the brighter the shine.you will need about 2 #2 and 2 #3 pads and about 5 or six bonnets for your orbital buffer,plus a bag of soft cloth rags and 2 aplicator pads which should come with the tech wax.
i dont think the buddy who helped me this year will answer his phone next spring.
c&c 33 tall rig

Last edited by cnc33voodoo; 09-21-2008 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 09-21-2008
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Giu...assuming your paint is like our Awlgrip or Awlcraft, the very WORST thing you can do is put on WAX. It will look good initially and then fade and get cloudy and really look awful. You need to use a polymer like 3M's FinesseIT polish and apply by hand or with a slow speed professional buffer.
I'm sure Hal will provide better info...but stay away from the wax products or any product with ANY abrasive qualities. You might want to find out what kind of paint was used and post it here to begin with so you get the right advice.
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Old 09-21-2008
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OK..I will call the builder tomorrow and find out what he used. I am not sure but I think it was somekind of paint with 2 components, because he said it's hard to retouch and get the same color...

Now I am intrigued...I didn't really pay much attention to it during the paint etc. to me it's white, it's good.

I know the stuff was applied and sanded like 5 times or so...after the primer, that is sand color.
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Old 09-21-2008
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Before I could recommend a wax I'd need to know the paint product your boat was finished with.

If it is a polyester LPU paint like Sterling, Awlgrip or Alexseal the last thing you want to do is let someone with little to no experience take a wheel or any sort of polish or compound to it. These paints should only be "sealed" with a polymer sealant that is designed for that product. With Akzo's Awlgrip line that product should be Awlcare..

AwlCare is a hand applied, non-abrasive, synthetic polymer. It will remove mild stains, water spots and diesel soot while also increasing resistance to attack from acid rain and other pollutants, when applied regularly. It contains no harsh abrasives. AwlCare leaves a non-yellowing, protective polymer coating which lasts through multiple washings provided you use Awlwash as well. Awlcare will temporarily seal and restore gloss to painted surfaces dulled by age or mistreatment. It is intended to be used over Awlgrip and Awlcraft 2000.

Polyester LPU's can be destroyed if you buff through the "skin" which is like a hard shelled clear coat that forms during the curing process of polyester LPU paints.

If your hull was painted with an Acrylic LPU such as Imron or Awlcraft 2000 it can be polished but you still need to be very skilled with the tools before attempting this.

I painted my hull with an acrylic LPU, Awlcraft 2000, and the ONLY product that touches it currently is Awlcare. When she ages I will use only the finest foam buffing pads from Lake Country Pads with Presta Chroma 1500 polish. After polishing I will follow it up again with Awlcare.

Presta Chroma 1500 (For Acrylic LPU's Only):

Lake Country CCS Pads:

Awlcare on an Acrylic LPU:
-Maine Sail / CS-36T

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 09-21-2008 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 09-21-2008
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Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice
Hal, Cam Cnc..

Than k you guys.

OK..exactly why I posted this thread...the level of info and help in such a simple question is enormous, and obviously you guys know what should be done..maybe you saved me from a disater..glad other that are complete paint idiots like me can read this,

I did notice that when scratched, the top layer around the scratch (part not scratched), is shinny, but the scartch does never go back to shinny..just gets cleaner, but never managed to actually buff it off...

Other friends with similar positive construction just paint, they never polish..I wonder if that is why.

Thanks Hal for the complete guide. Yoiu too Cam.
Thanks CnC
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Old 09-21-2008
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I use Meguiers products on the topside. The hull is coated with Proguard, a product licensed in St. Maarten and Spain. It is a water activated acrylic that can be used on gel coat and Awlgrip. I've never waxed my hull and it looks like new.
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Old 09-21-2008
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I was going to try for that "new boat"-look, but now I'm contented to have the more conservative "I-just-circumnavigated"-look. I think it looks much more realistic and I don't have to sweat bird-droppings or (gasp) fingerprints! Them shiny hulls do look awful pretty, though!!!
"There's a wind in my sails that protects and prevails." - "Six Months in a Leaky Boat", Split Enz
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