Jabota for Rub Rails?

[Finallybuyingaboat]

I am rebuilding a Shark 24. It is one of the first built, hull # 43, and I want to do a good job rebuilding it myself, but there is the question of a budget to consider. I need to replace the toe rail and rubrail, which are both made from Teak. Well, I would need about 110 feet of teak to do this and at $5 a linear foot, this is not really within my budget. Yes, I know, bite the bullet and spend the cash, but I also am repainting the deck, reapint the hull below the waterline, ripping out both sets of bulkheads and replacing with marine grade plywood, replacing the windows, adding additional hardware for single handed racing, etc.

So, could I use Jabota in place of teak for the rubrail & toe rail? It is about 25% of the cost of teak, so I would liek to determine if it is a feasible option. Failing that, is there a reasonably priced alternative to teak?

[sailordave]

Originally Posted by Finallybuyingaboat

So, could I use Jabota in place of teak for the rubrail & toe rail? It is about 25% of the cost of teak, so I would liek to determine if it is a feasible option. Failing that, is there a reasonably priced alternative to teak?

I *believe* Jobota is also known as Brazilian Cherry. I used this as the rub rails on my kids Opti Dingy I built them. IIRC it pretty good rot resistance and is fairly hard. Not to bad to machine either.

Check out this link on the WBF..Is this wood any good? - The WoodenBoat Forum

[retclt]

It's spelled Jatoba.

Great stuff that looks just like teak at a fraction of the cost. The con is that it doesn't take oil to well and if used outside should be varnished. I plan to use inside and out on my re-fit this winter.

I say go for it!

[Finallybuyingaboat]

Ooops, you are correct, I spelled it incorrectly. I will be using cetol on it, so I figure if it is a fair option, I may as well give it a shot. Probably going to cost 25% of what the teak would. That frees up $400 to spend on paint, kiwi grip, plexiglass, etc.

Thanks for the responses.

[T34C]

I have used a wood called Ipe for some trim work on boats in the past, companionway slides etc... It worked very well, looks like teak, takes oil well and is VERY durable. It is a very dense/hard wood. It is a little harder to cut and requires you to go slow, but is priced way less than teak at maybe 1/3 the price.

[Hawkeye25]

We used a great deal of Jatoba for inside mouldings (were also told it was called Brazillian Rosewood - who knows) but the wood varied somewhat in machinability and durability. We were making Rosettes and Crown mouldings, and after wading through a short 'learning curve', found the wood to be absolutely stable and durable, especially as chair rails and jambs. Anything near the end required predrilling, but the main part withstood air nailers just fine. I would NOT recommend it for Rubrail, as it will split near end fasteners in use.

Ipe, also called Ironwood by some, is also Brazillian, I believe, and is a better choice. I have made several parts of my boat with it, and it wears excellent, weathers well, varnishes beautifully and holds varnish far better than Teak because it is not nearly as oily or porous. My companionway doors are Ipe.

[retclt]

[QUOTE=Hawkeye25;372681]I would NOT recommend it for Rubrail[QUOTE]

I agree. I would not use it for rub rails either.