What to do next on my project boat?

Perithead · #1 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

I have washed my Southcoast 22 and it looks really good. I have also gutted the inside of most things. Now I just wonder what I should do next?

I think I am going to have to pait the deck, I know I have to pait the hull and bottom. I am also going to redo the layout inside the cabin(tear out the basic frame work for the starboard berth and small galley and I am thinking about shortening the v-berth and just use it for storage). I want to paint the inside of the cabin also.

I just dont know what order I should do it in. Colder weather is coming so I am not sure when I will be able to paint and do some fiberglass work. How cold is to cold?

I cant seem to get pictures on my posts but you can view them at my website. Just click on Soutchcoast 22 Project Sailboat

tommays · #2 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

Is the rubrail missing or just off

I would look at the backing on the lifeline stantions to see what can de done to stop the flexing that is crazing the gelcoat

If you have have problems matching up new parts ,You may find it better to get the stuff re-plated if it is in decent shape

TheWastedYears · #3 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

The crazing's no big deal. There are plenty of products on the market to handle that. Just make sure it's not from a weak/spongy deck.

Before you go moving bulkheads, make sure none of them are there for structural support. If they are, you'll want to devise a way to maintain integrity when the bulkhead is moved. From the looks of things, the "table leg" is all you have to worry about, since you're not moving the companionway bulkhead.

While you've got the interior out, I'd consider any electrical upgrades at that point.

I'm pretty much in the same boat as you (no pun intended) w/ my 31'.

sailingdog · #4 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

I'd highly recommend you work from the inside out... as you're doing the interior the chances of making the exterior a bit worse is pretty high, so you'll want to do the exterior painting—hull, deck, bottom—last.

Remove as much of the deck hardware as you can, and leave it off until you paint the deck.

The paint job will be easier and last longer if you remove the deck hardware.

Just remember, preparation is 95% of the work in a good paint job, and most paint jobs succeed or fail based on the prepwork done.

RandyonR3 · #5 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

I'd suggest you set back and take a good look at what you have and use it for what its worth.
Fix what needs to be fixed, and go sailing.

merc2dogs · #6 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

Looks like a nice project, after I sold my portager 22 I looked at a few other boats, one was a southcoast like yours, seemed to be a solid boat, but I decided against it because it was pretty much the same thing as the portager (nice boat and sailed well, but I just never liked pop-tops or swing keels, plus I was looking to go a bit larger.)

As for figuring out if the head is big enough, the method I always use when determining a layout is to build it out of cardboard then go through the motions of using it. Works great, if you build it in position, and everything works, you have most of your cut patterns ready to go.

Ken.

Perithead · #7 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

Thanks for the replies everyone.

The rub rail is on but not very good. I think I may just get a new one and glue it on or however it attaches.

I will check the life line stantions for flexing and see if I can stiffen the bases up a bit. Replating them may be the best idea, any idea of the cost for 4 bases getting replated?

I do plan on rewiring the whole boat but I was thinking about waiting to do that since I could drill holes and run the wires through whatever plywood "furniture" I add. Or is there somehting I am not thinking about?

SD- Should I go ahead and remove the deck hardware even though it may a month or so before I get around to painting the topsides? One thing I am worried about it the air temperature. I was thinking maybe I should do the hull and topsides while it was still warm then wait for the cabin because I could heat it up in there with a small electric heater. Or is there somehting I am not thinking of here?

Randy- THat is a good point but one reason I bought this boat was to learn how fix/redo/paint a sailboat. So I think I will do whatever needs doing just to learn how to do it.

I think I may have figured out the head placement problem but it just will not be to "private". To me that is not that big of a deal but this is a boat to sell, are other people more concerned about pirvacy?

I am heading down the other boat today and staying for the weekend. I will be back on the reply Sunday.

Thanks everyone for all of your time!

tommays · #8 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

The base in the picture looks welded and may be SS which could just be brought back to a nice shine if it is

If you need to chrome and motorcycle or car place

Perithead · #9 (**permalink**) 09-28-2008

tommays- The lifeline bases are stainless steel but the others are not. They are something coated with chrome I do believe. The one in that picture is SS though. I will try and post the other picture.........

This one may be able to be re-plated. I wonder if I could just purchase some new SS bases? The only thing is that they are not square but are angled slightly for the bowrail. Any chance of finding some angled correctly?

US27inKS · #10 (**permalink**) 09-29-2008

I would go ahead and remove the deck hardware like SD suggested. Odds are that you have hardware going through a cored deck, and the core is not sealed from the bolt hole. Remove the hardware, the clean out and open up the holes, and fill with epoxy. Then you can redrill before you reinstall hardware, and not worry about the core getting wet in the future.