Jib sheets on a Newport 28

jaschrumpf · #1 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

When I bought my '75 Newport 28 last April, the owner was using movable blocks on the toe rail as fairleads for the jib sheets. I don't know what the real term for them is, but they have a latch that opens when you pull out a spring-loaded pin and you can hook them onto anything.

I've always been used to having a fairlead on a track (sailing mostly J22s up to last year) for the jib sheets, and this arrangement always puzzled me. Not having any photos of originally-rigged Newports, I don't have anything to compare his setup to, though it just doesn't seem right. Having the blocks separated by the entire beam of the boat prevents me from getting the jib pulled in really tight on a close haul.

Looking at the hardware I have on deck:

and comparing it with what I have seen about the original Newport 28 setup, I think tht the stand-up blocks in the foreground should be for the jib sheets. They aren't movable, but then the Newport 28 was always a production boat and not known for a racing or blue-water setup. In fact, what photos I have seen of an original N28 did not show a boom vang, which is what the portside block is being used for.

I'm thinking about rerunning my jib sheets through those standup blocks and seeing how better/worse my sail trim will be. I can't help but think that I can sail more close-hauled with the blocks closer to the mast.

Opinions?

sailingdog · #2 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

The blocks on the toe rail you're talking about are called snatch blocks.

I think you're right that the stand up blocks are probably for the jib sheets. Using those blocks will help with the boat pointing higher, since you'll be sheeting the jib further inboard than the toe rail would have allowed you to.

BarryL · #3 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

Hello,

Most of the Newport 28's I've seen (4, including mine) had jib tracks port and starboard, mounted inboard of the toerail. Mine were pin controlled, you pull the pin up and slide the car back and forward. If your boat doesn't have them, it would be a great idea to add them.

The standup blocks you have are not for jib sheets. Most N28's came with genoas (130-150). The clew of the sail will be aft of those blocks, so there is no way the sheet can run through those blocks. Those blocks must be running lines aft - either halyard, reef, or something else.

If it helps I could email, post or otherwise put some pics up. You might even be able to see some on the Newport site, which is at:

Newport, Neptune, Gulf sailboats built by Capital Yachts

Good luck,
Barry

jaschrumpf · #4 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

Yeah, I found a couple of photos that give a good view. Those tracks are long gone from my girl. Now, what do I do in the meantime before I can put them back? The snatch blocks on the toe rail don't give me enough pull inboard for my small jib -- which is all I have at the moment since my genny tore and I haven't got it fixed up yet (if it can be for a rational price).

Since I'm now working with what is essentially a storm jib all the time, I may give those standups a try. When I was out in some 15 kt winds on Wednesday under the little jib only, I couldn't come within 60 deg. of the wind -- tried to tack and hung up in irons even after a run to build up speed. It made me appreciate the old Jack Aubrey days and the dread of a lee shore.

Faster · #5 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

Even if you were using the working jib which might sheet inside the shrouds and ahead of the spreaders, I don't think those standup blocks on the cabin top are for jib leads. There's no fore/aft adjustment available and in any event there's no way that a Newport 28 would actually benefit from such a narrow sheeting angle. I'd also be concerned about adequate reinforcement for the loads from a jib sheet.

Tracks on the deck, inboard of the toerail would be the normal setup, usually long enough to accomodate use of a small jib, a #2 and a genoa under various wind conditions.

These can be added after the fact, but be sure that you can adequately back up the attaching bolts with plates or large washers, and that you seal/fill the balsa core to prevent crushing, subsequent leakage and core damage. If you have a limited range of headsails you can put in short sections of track at strategic places and avoid some holes in the deck.

You will see a benefit in pointing ability as a result. Check out other Newports or similar boats for some ideas.

jaschrumpf · #6 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

Yeah, my girl doesn't point so well. However, even more perusal of all those photos did show an N28 with the snatch blocks on the toerail; so there must have been a lot of variation as to how those boats were equipped.

I guess I'll just have to suffer for a while unless I can come up with a brainstorm in the meantime.

Faster · #7 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

What you could try for now, jas, is "barberhauling".. since you're using the small jib, run a line through those standup blocks to the jib clew and "haul" it inboard.

Experiment with the lead angle on the toerail, jib sheet setting and the tension on the barberhaul to see if you can find the setting that gets your sail inboard with the correct leech tension.

It's an extra line to play with on each tack, but you may find it helpful... with a small non overlapping jib it's a viable measure. You migh even get away with just a single line that you can use on either tack, if the lead doesn't have interferences (like the mast, for instance)

Might be worth a shot. Diagram below shows what I mean... jib sheets in red, barberhaul in blue:

sailingdog · #8 (**permalink**) 09-26-2008

A PO of the boat may have modified the boat to use it with just a working jib, rather than the larger genoa... and those blocks may be in the right position. Tracks would obviously be a better solution, but you'd probably want two sets of tracks, one inboard for a working jib, and the other further outboard to handle a genoa.

I wish you had a wider view of the cabin top, so I could see where the chainplates for the shrouds are. The genny tracks have to be out board of the chainplates generally... but a jib can often be inboard of them.

jaschrumpf · #9 (**permalink**) 09-27-2008

This isn't the greatest view, but it's a merge of two separate photos that gives you a good idea of there the shroud chainplates are. If the usual tracks would be in place they would be good for a genny, but not so good for a jib. The standup blocks are probably in the best location for a jib.

jaschrumpf · #10 (**permalink**) 09-27-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Faster

What you could try for now, jas, is "barberhauling".. since you're using the small jib, run a line through those standup blocks to the jib clew and "haul" it inboard.

Experiment with the lead angle on the toerail, jib sheet setting and the tension on the barberhaul to see if you can find the setting that gets your sail inboard with the correct leech tension.

It's an extra line to play with on each tack, but you may find it helpful... with a small non overlapping jib it's a viable measure. You migh even get away with just a single line that you can use on either tack, if the lead doesn't have interferences (like the mast, for instance)

Might be worth a shot. Diagram below shows what I mean... jib sheets in red, barberhaul in blue:

This is interesting, because I had a similar idea while I was out on Wednesday, only I thought about using the lazy sheet for the barberhauling line. I didn't do it because it would have wrapped around a stanchion, and I didn't want to see what might happen to it under a load.

I may give your concept a try next time out, though.