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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2008
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I converted the halyards over to internal on a Hunter 27 back in the early 80s. The boat had some deck compression around the mast, so in the course of fixing that I built a new larger aluminum mast step with the turning blocks built into it, and shorted the mast by the space the new base took up. However that is a whole lot of work! I knew how to weld aluminum, built a trailer for the boat, and had it sitting in my shop to work on it.

What I think you need to figure out is where to secure the turning block. If you mast has a step with attachment points for turning blocks then it will be a lot easier. You can slot the mast a distance up from the deck to allow a fair lead to a block attached to the base or the deck itself. That might be easier than trying to put an exit box with the block onto the curved surface of the mast.

I came up with a solution for the wiring, and noisy internal halyards too. I cut donuts made from polyethylene foam 2" thick using a serated knife. I just traced the outside of the mast onto the foam, that was big enough to fit tightly in the mast. I cut a small notch at the front to hold the wiring against the front of the mast. I cut a round hole in the center for the halyards. I used my whisker pole to push the donuts into the mast from both ends, spacing them about 4 feet apart. The wires were kept tight against the mast and away from the halyards. The halyards were kept from slapping the mast, or hitting screws. SILENCE! It was wonderful.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2008
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As sailing dog mentioned, you can mount exit slot on the mast and run the halyard down to a well backed turning block on deck. I prefer to have the halyards exit well up the mast. This allows someone to "jump" the halyard by pulling it from the mast. Someone in the cockpit just takes up the slack and tensions with the winch.
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Old 09-30-2008
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FWIW, our halyards exit via a slot about 6 feet up from the base of the mast. That might simplify things.

Sorry, too late. I see its already been covered.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
You don't need to have an exit sheave to lead halyards aft. It can be done with exit slots and properly mounted/located turning blocks on deck. Using a mast exit sheave limits the location and direction you can run the halyards aft to.
What you describe is fine for a spinnaker halyard, and in fact the way the rigger set up the spinnaker halyard on my boat.

But I do not feel that is a good way to route a main or jib halyard, due to the fact both these halyards are always trimmed with load on them. That load running thru exit slots will cause friction and chafe, to some degree, regardless of how smooth the exit plate is designed and how accurately it is positioned. If the halyard turning block is attached to the mast plate, directly below the mast head, so everything is inline (mast head sheave, exit slot, turning block...not easy to do) that wear can be minimized, but the further the turning block gets from the base of the mast, the greater friction and chafe will be introduced to the operation fo the halyard. Who wants to be trimming a main/jib halyard that has a bend in it other than a sheave or block?

Can be done...yes..workable...maybe. Something to do as a one time DIY, not a good idea, especially with all rope halyards.
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Old 09-30-2008
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From what I've seen, it is a pretty common way to do it... IIRC, that's how it is done on many boats owned by people on this forum, including Craigtoo, TJK, NOLAsaililng, Gui and myself... Provided the blocks are located in the proper spot, I don't see it as adding much friction or chafe to the setup.
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Old 09-30-2008
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Exiting at least 5-6 feet above deck can be very helpful in allowing a person at the mast to raise the sail quickly.(as Nola has already noted) Even though you may be doing this so that you can do it all from the cockpit, grinding a halyard up from under a dodger can be a slow arduous process. The same sail can be raised in seconds with a jumper (again, Nola has already noted this.)

As to putting a winch on the mainsheet - with a mid boom arrangement I don't see how you can avoid it and still be able to properly sheet the sail in.. but personally I abhor mid boom sheeting setups, esp if they are ahead of the companionway (I realize there are other advantages, but don't think the tradeoffs are worth it) - JMO
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Old 09-30-2008
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all,
thanks for all the input. as usual, nothing is as easy as it seems. if i decide to go with the exit plate, how far up the mast should it be mounted.
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Old 09-30-2008
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4-6' above the deck if you're planning on leading the halyards aft and want some flexibility in position the turning block for it... also, having it that high allows someone to help raise the main or jib by jumping the halyard.
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Old 09-30-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
4-6' above the deck if you're planning on leading the halyards aft and want some flexibility in position the turning block for it... also, having it that high allows someone to help raise the main or jib by jumping the halyard.
I agree, 6' would be great. Just in case you ever had crew on a calm day, they could jump the halyard much quicker. One thing I hate about my setup.
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Old 09-30-2008
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BTW, if you're doing this for more than one halyard, stagger the exit slots so they don't line up either vertically or horizontally... so as not to weaken the mast in any one area too much.
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her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

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