1978 YANMAR 2QM20H 600 hrs has not been run 10 yrs, new owner wants to get her going - SailNet Community

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  #1  
Old 10-09-2008
Aubergine O'day 32 CC
 
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1978 YANMAR 2QM20H 600 hrs has not been run 10 yrs, new owner wants to get her going

Story from the seller is the throttle cables broke and he never fixed them, sat in the slip as creating an abundant artificial reef. So as new owner i have since replaced fuel and filter, oil and filter (no water in it), water intake and impeller, starter, alternator, mixing elbow, ... and have tried to start it a couple times by jumping solenoid, she started cranking and then oil squirted out of rusty oil line tubing which was bad news but the good news is the oil pump must be working based on trajectory of the oil squirt. i then opened a cover plate for the zincs and the head had cooling water in it so the water pump must be working. So question to the deisel guys and gals is ... whats next? i have not pulled fuel injectors or have not lubed pistons or cylinders. I am thinking i should but maybe i can get her going without? dont want to damage any cylinder liners or rings or valves with continued cranking. some simple steps to resurecting a deisel from out there would be great help.
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Old 10-09-2008
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I think your intuition is on the money. If it were my engine, I would pull the injectors, cover the fuel pipes with some absorbent cloth and crank the engine (no compression) to get the oil moving around in the engine and to run that old fuel out of the injector pump. Have the water shut off while your doing that so you're not filling up the exhaust side from the raw water pump. I would probably shoot a little motor oil down into the cylinders to get the walls coated a bit. After that, I'd put it back together and give it a try. I think there is a high probability that you'll be replacing seals that have gotten hard from age and no use to fix future oil leaks.

(disclaimer: I'm a back yard fix it guy who is not in the business anymore)
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You could spend many hours tearing things down and rebuilding them, but it may not be necessary. You should either just replace the fuel lift pump, or keep a very close eye on the motor oil level. If it starts to rise you likely have a leak in the lift pump diaphragm.

You may end up having to pull the injectors to see if they pop off at the correct pressure, but if you get it going and it runs well, don't bother.

I think if you crank it a little bit with the stop pulled out you will circulate enough oil.

Remember to close the intake seacock if you have to do a lot of cranking so you don't flood the cylinders with seawater back though the exhaust system. Open it when it starts.
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Old 10-10-2008
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change the oil ,run it and change it several more times
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Fix the oil line, and charge the battery. It will probably start ok.
Don't tear out the injectors unless you have to.
The moment the motor starts, the oil will circulate very promptly. When it starts, a spinning crankshaft at 1500 rpm is very violent indeed, and oil splashes everywhere in seconds.
Older motors really do not like bing disturbed. Disturb only what you have to.
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Old 10-10-2008
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Old diesels that haven't been run in a while will always grumble about being woke up, but after warming up to the idea, they're happy as a clam. A diesel is the best piece of machinery ever built IMHOP!!
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Old 10-10-2008
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few more questions from aubergine

(from erps: high probability that you'll be replacing seals that have gotten hard from age and no use to fix future oil leaks.)
1. what are oil seals and how do you know they are leaking?

2. because i havent' actually started the thing, what is exact proceedure. It appears that i have a electric pull stop button, but i do not have any solenoid on fuel inj pump. how does pull out button work? electric or manual? ( i do not have manual shut down cable attached near throttle either)

3. Decompression Lever: Do you want this in the down positon when starting? (down is toward stern and up is toward bow) which is "on" and which is "off" cant tell from the service manual.

4. So lets say im cranking the starter ( not more than 15 sec at a time to not cook it ) does the motor just kind of fire up start running or what happens?

thanks,
scott
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Old 10-10-2008
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Quote:
1. what are oil seals and how do you know they are leaking?
On each end of the engine where the crankshaft sticks out, there is a crankshaft seal. It's a round metal ring with a rubber lip gasket that keeps the oil from leaking out of the engine. You'll know they're leaking if you find oil in the bilge pan underneath the engine. I've seen a few motors that don't get used much leak through the seals. I don't know why, but guessed that the seals got old and stiff from being dry for so long. If it's not leaking much, just keep an oil absorbent cloth in the bilge pan and don't worry about it. If it's leaking a lot, the seals should probably be replaced before the motor gets run with no oil in it.

Quote:
2. because i havent' actually started the thing, what is exact proceedure. It appears that i have a electric pull stop button, but i do not have any solenoid on fuel inj pump. how does pull out button work? electric or manual? ( i do not have manual shut down cable attached near throttle either)
My last three boats had diesels in them and they all had a pull cable stop, so I'm not sure how yours is set up. Generally there is some sort of lever on the injector pump that shuts off the fuel, either cable operated or solenoid operated.

Quote:
3. Decompression Lever: Do you want this in the down positon when starting? (down is toward stern and up is toward bow) which is "on" and which is "off" cant tell from the service manual.
The only time I used the decompression lever on my engine was when the batteries were low. It should have a small spring to hold it in the "run" position, so if you wanted to use it, you would push or pull the lever against the spring. It's used to get the motor spinning for some momentum and then released to assist in starting.

Quote:
4. So lets say im cranking the starter ( not more than 15 sec at a time to not cook it ) does the motor just kind of fire up start running or what happens?
You'll probably hear a cylinder or two start to catch (fire) and then all of them will go and it will smoke and rattle like crazy if it hasn't been run in a long time, especially if it's a cold day. Much of the wear on a motor occurs at start up because there is no oil pressure. That's why they rattle so bad too.
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Old 10-10-2008
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Ha, Ray beat me to it:-))

I would recommend pulling the injectors as Erps said and getting some oil into the cylinders. Sitting that long it's more than likely that there has been some rust formed on the rings/cylinders. I'm not sure what the stop button is if you don't have a solenoid on the pump, but I wouldn't start it without a mechanical way to shut it down. Seals dry out if not run, usually on the front and rear of the crankshaft and the coolant pump. You might luck out, or they may start leaking pretty badly, no way to tell. On a 3GM that I had you raised the compression levers to decompress, horizontal was run position, not sure on your engine. Once you have the old fuel out of the inj. pump and the inj. back in, start procedure is pretty simple. Close the seawater valve as has been suggested if you are going to be cranking a lot (likely), while cranking "bleed" each injector by loosening the bolt that holds the fuel line onto the injector until you get clear fuel flowing (have fuel diapers to catch the fuel), tighten the bolt while continuing to crank. Repeat for other inj. It may start with only one cylinder firing (it's a two cyl?), let it run and bleed the other inj. while running. If it doesn't start you may have to find the bleed screw on the inj. pump and bleed that too.
Good luck,
John
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Last edited by jrd22; 10-10-2008 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Erps is a faster typer
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Old 10-10-2008
Aubergine O'day 32 CC
 
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Ill post some updates after this weekend, beautiful sunny 80 degrees and blowing like heck on the water here in santa barbara today!
scott
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