What can i do for these windows on the boat? - SailNet Community
 
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post #1 of Old 10-09-2008 Thread Starter
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What can i do for these windows on the boat?

This is a 2 part question.

First is what can i do to make these windows look a little better? They really do look like crap. Im not shy of replacing the plexi, and kinda plan to soon.

The second part is, what can i do to seal them? They leak like hell. I sealed them with 5200 right after i got the boat, but they have started leaking again. Yea, i know 5200 isn't right for this now, i didn't know that then.




You can see ive got tape over the top of them, that works for now.


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1972 Pearson 36 S.V. Distant Star

Last edited by SVDistantStar; 10-09-2008 at 09:31 PM. Reason: forgot the pics.
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post #2 of Old 10-09-2008
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This may be helpful:

J/30 Rambunctious - Portlight Replacement

-Jason

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post #3 of Old 10-10-2008
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You might also find this article interesting:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...ted-ports.html

You already have surface mounted deadlights. How old is the boat? That article discusses converting the frame style to surface mount. It describes how to mount the new surface mount, so it would tell you how to remove and remount your lights.

I have also seen new windows that open and have screens. They come ion a variety of shapes and sizes. Maybe you can find one to fit your boat, assuming you want some that can open.
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post #4 of Old 10-10-2008
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The shape does lend it self to finding a window frame extrusion that could be miter cut to form a nice looking cover that could also be sealed

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post #5 of Old 10-10-2008
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Buying custom made framed deadlights is the best but priciest way to go.. barring that we have had good success surface mounting plexi with Dow Corning 795.

Hopefully, since your 5200 "sealed" ports leak, they will come off without too much trouble. If you can get one off in one piece take it to a supplier, they can generally cut a couple of copies at a reasonable rate. Use the original as a template to drill the holes and make the holes oversize so that you don't stress the plexi as it expands and contracts. Also avoid overtightening - you shouldn't have dimples in the window at the screws.

These were done this way - a couple of seasons ago and with careful masking and application it looks pretty good:


Ron

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".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
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post #6 of Old 10-14-2008
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A lot of modern boats and older boats being retrofitted don't have frames on the deadlights. They are often replaced with slightly oversized lexan or plexi ports that are through-bolted to the cabintop and bedded in butyl tape.

The trick of doing this is to drill the fastener holes in the plexi or lexan slightly oversized and chamfer/countersink both sides slightly. If you don't counter sink the holes, they will often become the starting point for a stress crack. Then the screws are through-bolted, and butyl tape is used to weatherproof the seal between the glazing and the hull. Paint the outer 1" of the inner surface of the glazing material black so that it hides the butyl tape and such.

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post #7 of Old 10-14-2008
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The biggest problem you're going to have will be removing the 5200 from the boat. It will fall off the plex, but may remove pieces of the gelcoat getting it off the deck. I would look into 5200 remover, and hope it works.


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post #8 of Old 10-14-2008
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the debond stuff works relatively well

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post #9 of Old 10-15-2008 Thread Starter
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Yea, ive got some butyl tape(nice wood colour). This project kinda got pushed back again for the bulkhead, but i may tackle it tomorrow just to have one less project.


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post #10 of Old 10-15-2008
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Be sure to post the "after" picture!

-Jason

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