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  #31  
Old 03-13-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
Yes I cover the entire base of the fitting then tighten it down. It's best to wait for a hot day and the butyl will compress easier.. The problem with us NE boaters is that water can get under a fitting and expand and yuo don't want that so it's best to seal the entire base. Get the thin flat butyl tape. I think mine is 1/16" thick if I am not mistaken.
I concur completely. I am on Lake Ontario, so while we don't have the salt, our freeze/thaw cycles are as brutal as Maine's if not worse (we are enjoying one today, for instance!).

I got hit at dock by a Peterson 37, the crew of which had loosened the nut on the wheel in preparation for a winter haulout...BEFORE they had motored there...anyway, one of my stern quarter extrusions had been bashed and needed to be removed for rewelding and anodizing. So when I got my wife back in the stern with a rachet and undid the afflicted piece, I noticed it was fully bedded in grey butyl tape.

My boat was 33 years old at the time, and this stuff was "live" in the sense of being seemingly fresh!

Not being one to argue with success, when I redid the job, I redid the butyl tape the exact same way, but with separately bedded and new bolts and fender washers. It looks great and there will always be a place aboard my boats for this half-forgotten but very versatile product.
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  #32  
Old 03-26-2009
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This butyl tape thread is very interesting. Last Autumn I removed my grab rails for refinishing (looked like they had not been removed since my Islander was built in 1984). Who put them on used something red that worked like glue (and is now hard as a rock). No clue what that was.

I've been wondering what to use to reattach my grab rails to the deck. What do you think? Is butyl tape the best product given the roughness of the wood?

DaCap
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  #33  
Old 04-24-2009
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I have a some questions about beveling. To create the bevel are you simply using an oversized drill bit to countersink or is there some other method? Having never drilled through gelcoat I am concerned about chipping.

Also, are you beveling all holes (including those under chainplates, stanchions, etc.)?

thanks!
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  #34  
Old 04-24-2009
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Yes, butyl tape should work quite well for you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacap06 View Post
This butyl tape thread is very interesting. Last Autumn I removed my grab rails for refinishing (looked like they had not been removed since my Islander was built in 1984). Who put them on used something red that worked like glue (and is now hard as a rock). No clue what that was.

I've been wondering what to use to reattach my grab rails to the deck. What do you think? Is butyl tape the best product given the roughness of the wood?

DaCap
If you're using a good countersink bit, run it in reverse so you don't countersink too large a hole... It won't chip the gel coat if it is run in reverse either.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blowfish View Post
I have a some questions about beveling. To create the bevel are you simply using an oversized drill bit to countersink or is there some other method? Having never drilled through gelcoat I am concerned about chipping.

Also, are you beveling all holes (including those under chainplates, stanchions, etc.)?

thanks!
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  #35  
Old 04-24-2009
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Hm, I need to rebed my traveler and car tracks. I was going to use 3M 101, but it sounds like butyl will be lots easier. Thanks for the thread!
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  #36  
Old 04-25-2009
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So if the car track is 3/4 inches wide, is it best to use 3/4 inch wide tape, or 1/2 inch tape? I am guessing that when the bolts are tightened, the tape compresses and oozes out a certain amount...
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  #37  
Old 04-25-2009
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Use the 3/4" wide tape if you've got it... makes applying it simpler. Cleaning up butyl tape excess is really easy.
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So if the car track is 3/4 inches wide, is it best to use 3/4 inch wide tape, or 1/2 inch tape? I am guessing that when the bolts are tightened, the tape compresses and oozes out a certain amount...
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  #38  
Old 04-25-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Use the 3/4" wide tape if you've got it... makes applying it simpler. Cleaning up butyl tape excess is really easy.
Nah, I don't have any, i was about to order some and was trying to decide what size. I'll get some of each At $3.50 a roll, ya can't have too much!
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Old 04-25-2009
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Yes, it is probably the least expensive and most versatile of the sealants. As I said in my nutshell post, the fact that it doesn't have a cure time makes it very good for doing genoa tracks and traveller tracks... which are often long enough that doing it by yourself with a quick curing more adhesive sealant is a real PITA.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jarcher View Post
Nah, I don't have any, i was about to order some and was trying to decide what size. I'll get some of each At $3.50 a roll, ya can't have too much!
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Telstar 28
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #40  
Old 04-26-2009
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Originally Posted by jarcher View Post
Nah, I don't have any, i was about to order some and was trying to decide what size. I'll get some of each At $3.50 a roll, ya can't have too much!
Went by the local Marine store the otherday,and they have butyl tape, but it is $21/roll. Off to the RV Center one afternoon this week!
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