Where to install a GFI receptacle

[Doodles]

The surveyor report said I needed to install a GFI receptacle on my boat, and that it should be the first so that all ahead of it are also protected. I've looked at the instructions that came with the GFI and they make my head hurt. Is there any simple way to determine which is the first receptacle in line, i.e. which one I need to replace? I have two breakers for AC outlets, one for the starboard side outlets and one port side.

[rhaley]

If you have two separate AC circuits, then the easiest solution is to put two GFI receptacles, on at the beginning of each circuit. Trace the wires from the breaker to the first receptacle. This receptacle is at the head of the chain (all subsequent receptacles for that circuit should be daisy chained to this one). Replace this receptacle with the GFI. Do the same for the other circuit.

When you are finished, turn on your AC power and measure the voltage in each receptacle, then push the test button the GFI for that circuit. The voltage should go away. Test every receptacle to make sure they are all protected.

Good Luck!

[Doodles]

Originally Posted by rhaley

If you have two separate AC circuits, then the easiest solution is to put two GFI receptacles, on at the beginning of each circuit. Trace the wires from the breaker to the first receptacle. This receptacle is at the head of the chain (all subsequent receptacles for that circuit should be daisy chained to this one). Replace this receptacle with the GFI. Do the same for the other circuit.

When you are finished, turn on your AC power and measure the voltage in each receptacle, then push the test button the GFI for that circuit. The voltage should go away. Test every receptacle to make sure they are all protected.

Good Luck!

Thanks rhaley, that sounds simple enough.

[FarCry]

Some may disagree, but it might be wise, after your GFI installation, to confirm that that other devices would not inadvertently be disconnected. For example, your battery charger, if applicable.

[AllThumbs]

Make sure you connect the "line" and "load" terminals correctly. Line will be the terminals back to the panel. Load will be the terminals to all other receptacles on the circuit.

Eric

[thekeip]

You should also be aware that GFIs are not the same physical size as those they replace..slightly bigger. That 'slightly' however, can give you fits. I've never had a completely hassle free GFI install, simple as it may seem.
howard keiper
berkeley

[jarcher]

Another option , if you have an AC breaker panel on board, is to use GFCI breakers instead. Then, you don't have to worry that you replaced the upstream outlet. I always find replacing breakers easier than replacing outlets, since, as was mentioned, GFCI outlets are physically large compared to ordinary outlets.

[SailorByFate]

An even better test is to use a polarity tester with a button that creates a ground fault. Here is an example. You should have no trouble finding one for about $10 at your local hardware store.

After you install your GFI(s), you plug this tester into each outlet in your boat. Confirm you have two green lights (some testers use a different color) on the tester and push the button. That should trip the GFI and remove power, extinguishing both green lights.

That will confirm every outlet has all three wires connected correctly all the way back to the GFI.

It wouldn't hurt to do the same test at home for all outlets that are outdoors, in the garage or near plumbing.

[hellosailor]

Doodles, your surveyor should be able to tell you the ABYC requirements for the location, it is within x-many feet of the AC power connection to the boat. In practical terms, you locate it as close to the AC power connection as you can, in a place where you can reach and reset it.

That's assuming you are talking about shore-supplied AC, not a separate genset onboard. Gensets and inverters can be problematic because of the way they aren't always "really" grounded compared to shore power.

Personally? I'd stop down at the hardware store, and replace EACH of my AC outlets with a GFI-equipped outlet. They're all of about $5 each now, cheap redundant protection.

[GaryHLucas]

Originally Posted by SailorByFate

An even better test is to use a polarity tester with a button that creates a ground fault. Here is an example. You should have no trouble finding one for about $10 at your local hardware store.

After you install your GFI(s), you plug this tester into each outlet in your boat. Confirm you have two green lights (some testers use a different color) on the tester and push the button. That should trip the GFI and remove power, extinguishing both green lights.



That will confirm every outlet has all three wires connected correctly all the way back to the GFI.

It wouldn't hurt to do the same test at home for all outlets that are outdoors, in the garage or near plumbing.

You don't need the tester, just the test button on the GFI. Here is why. A GFI works like this: Both the hot and the neutral wire pass through a current sensor. If all the power is going out on the hot and coming back on the neutral the two currents cancel one another and the sensor sees zero. If current goes anywhere else the sensor sees current and the GFI trips. The test button connects a small resistor around the current sensor. So some current flows that the sensor will detect. If the sensor doesn't work the GFI won't trip. If the test button is bad, or the resistor is bad the GFI won't trip. Either way you are absolutely sure whether it is working!