Deterniming what to do about my hull to deck joint on my project boat...

Perithead · #1 10-11-2008

I have taken the rub rail off of my Southcoast 22 project boat and it is going to need a new one I believe. I have been looking at blogs and such where other people have completely seperated the deck from the hull. I am wondering if I need to do the same thing...

The boat does have numerous leaks throughout the boat at the hull to deck joint. I am thinking I can fix these when I put on a new rub rail. I have removed the old adhesive for the old rub rail and some of the sealant/adhesive that was used to bond the deck to the hull(not a whole lot but just what I could get to with a flathead screw driver. What I have in my head is when I go to put the new rubrail on I will also put some sort of sealant/adhesive in crack followed by whatever attaches the rub rail.

The hull to deck joint isnt horrible, but it is the exact same all the way around. Some place have larger gaps where I dug the sealant out with the screw driver. But it isnt so bad that you can see through it or anything, the leaks are very small but are still there.

Also if it means anything the hull and deck and joined with rivets not bolts, not sure if that is a big deal but on my 29' it is bolted all the way around. Keep in mind this is a 22' puny trailer sailor.

What do you guys think????????

Thanks Alot!

Stillraining · #2 10-11-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Perithead

Keep in mind this is a 22' puny trailer sailor.

What do you guys think????????

Thanks Alot!

No offence but thats exactly what I think so dont break the bank in either time or money on this one ..it not like shes a globe girdler right...

Your plan sounds good ..may be use butle tape behind the rail.

Edit ; my coment wasent aimed to be negative...You called it a project boat and puny giving me the impression she is what she is thats all..a 50 footer could be given my same opinion on expenditures ..OK..

Perithead · #3 10-11-2008

Oh dont worry, I dont take many things negative anyway lol.

But I agree that I shouldnt be breaking the bank but I really purchased this boat more to learn how to do things than anything. I bought it to sell but I still would like to do things the correct way, but if the easiest and cheapest will do then that is what I will do.

SVDistantStar · #4 10-11-2008

A buddy of mine that is fixing up an Irwin 28 glassed over his hull to deck joint, inside and out. If you going to to be repainting the boat, why not do that? Leak proof.

Perithead · #5 10-11-2008

SV that sounds like a fabulous and simple idea. If I did that I could probably do away with the rivets could I?

fullkeel7 · #6 10-11-2008

Glassing the hull/deck joint sounds like a good plan, I wouldn't however remove the rivets. Sounds like it would be difficult to remove the rivets after the glass work is completed, so their removal before hand may compromise the hull to deck relationship and set up some sort of misalignment. Why take a form of rigidity out of the hull?... Bob

J36ZT · #7 10-11-2008

Perithead,

I guess my question would be how intact, structurally, is the deck-to-hull joint? Are the rivets really adding anything structurally? If the answer is yes, then would glassing over the joint provide equal or greater strength? Likely, glassing would be stronger. If you're using fenders anyway, a rub-rail is just cosmetic.

The next big question would be if it would be worth all the effort to glass over the joint vs repairing the bad spots in the joint and replacing the rub-rail.

I guess it all depends on your experience and skills.

Skipper, J/36 "Zero Tolerance"

Perithead · #8 10-11-2008

Well, my experience with fuiberglass is zero but I did purchase this boat to learn.(althoguh this isnt my first project boat, this one just has more glass/epoxy work needed) The joint now is structurally fine I do believe. I think it would be easier to just seal it when I put on the rub rail so that is still in consideration. I am not going to rush into a decision but instead listen to some more recomendations before making the final decision.

Thanks again everyone.

SVDistantStar · #9 10-12-2008

This is a bit of a crummy picture, but you can kinda see how the deck is seamless to the hull. He did a great job on it. I'll get some better pictures soon.

Perithead · #10 10-12-2008

I see he did all the work on the hard huh? Good way to save some bucks.

While lying in bed I was thinking. SOme of the rivets come out the other side maybe an eigth of an inch. Some do not proturde at all. Could this mean that some of them were done incorrectly? THe joint still has the same gap where some protrude and some dont. The old rub rail was just over the ones that protruded also. They only stick on the bottom not the top.

Could that be a problem or should I just slap a rub rail on with some good sealant/adhesive anyway?