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post #11 of 44 Old 10-15-2008
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Paul...if not involved in racing, why would a cruiser choose rod rigging? Curious as to if there are any advantages.

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post #12 of 44 Old 10-15-2008
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and even when racing sometimes it's really not worth it..
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post #13 of 44 Old 10-15-2008
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It seems to me it'd screw with light air Jib trim.
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post #14 of 44 Old 10-15-2008
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From what it was explained to me, as I was going to go with some kind of synthetic on the replacement of the rod rigging. I opted to replace mine:

1. even though there is nothing visibily wrong with the previous rod rigging (original to the boat), the drawback is that especially with a furler installed - there really is no way to check for fatigue of the rod.

2. Needed smaller turnbuckles - and as SD pointed out, near impossible to swage on a new fitting without damaging the point of attachment at the rod.

Synthetic is prone to lots more chafe, even though it can be subjected to more load. Wire I am replacing because I have already had instances of it failing at undesirable time.

Rod is bit stronger and offers greater chafe protection overall.

That is how I understand at least...and why I replaced my rod with well rod...

-- Jody

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post #15 of 44 Old 10-15-2008
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Thanks Jody...but my question was really to ask about rod vs. wire rigging.
I would never get rod if I were cruising outside of the country...just wondering if there are advantages to it vs. wire for anyone doing USA coastal cruising and not racing.
I had mine all replaced with new wire and stayloc type fittings for ease of repair/fabrication abroad...but the discussion of rod for anything other than racing is new to me. I am wondering why a world cruiser like Valiant is choosing rod as mentioned above. I was unaware of this and it seems rather bizarre for a boat intended as a world cruiser.

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post #16 of 44 Old 10-15-2008
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There is a lot of good reading on navtec's sight

They rate correctly sized rod for 10 year/40000 mile checkups

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post #17 of 44 Old 10-15-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieCobra View Post
It seems to me it'd screw with light air Jib trim.

Nope...no difference really...in fact in light air it may help, too much sag and luff curvature increases drag in light air, more than it provides lift.
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post #18 of 44 Old 10-15-2008
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As far as jerry rigging goes, if your wire uses manual fittings, such as Stayloks, then doing proper full repairs in remote locations is easier with wire over rod. If your rigging uses swage fittings, then you are in an equivalent problem, rod or wire. As far as temporay repairs using high-tech line, the two are effectively equivalent.


Rod has advantages over wire, even for cruising. Remember that rod is not some new race riggings. It has been around for many, many years, with the hard core racers using much newer technology.
Rod is:
1. lighter for the same strength. Weight in the rig is important for a cruiser.
2. lower windage for the same strength
3. Rod is smooth and polished, so it does not degrade from air pollution, etc, as much as grooved wire - i.e. longer life
4. A rod rig is probably easier to thoroughly inspect than a wire system -- arguablly.
5. Rod is more expensive than wire.

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post #19 of 44 Old 10-15-2008
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Wow, did this thread get hijacked to the wire vs rod theme, or what?

Like Jody, I replaced my rod with rod (we're talking rigging here). I was somewhat concerned when I did this because I plan on cruising from Calif to Florida. My thinking was that rod would provide better strength, seems to last a bit longer, and is less prone to corrosion. What I've heard is rod seldom fails. When it does go, it goes without any warning or signs. The wire, in wire rigging, seldom fails as well. It's the swage fittings or the wire corroding inside the fittings that usually goes. I'm not a rigger, but this is what I've heard.

Now back to the original question... I have never heard of "solid" rigging except maybe carbon-fiber. We're not really sure what Va3wmh was taking about, especially since this was the first post Va3wmh has made. Likely, it was rod rigging. Assuming this, the best advice I can give is to contact a local rigging shop. When I replaced my rigging, I was the first one the boatyard had heard of going rod for rod, everyone previous that originally had rod left with wire rigging. Cost was likely the biggest factor.

Hope this helps Va3wmh.

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post #20 of 44 Old 10-15-2008
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Thanks for the good summary Paul.

Sorry if this is hijacked J36ZT...but I thought the original question had been asked and answered several times.

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