Yanmar 2QM20 Exhaust part - help - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 20 Old 10-15-2008
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call or search "torreson marine" in muskegon michigan, my home town. if you are in north carolina i think they can ship to you.

ask for kelly she sounds hot and she knows her parts.

they also have good forum

your picture helps i gotts figure out how to do that
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post #12 of 20 Old 10-15-2008
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BTW i am fixing my old engine and i have a push pull stop lever that i dont know how it works can you tell me how you shut down? is it a pull swtich or just throttle back. also do you key start yours or push button start yours.
my 2qm20 is set up for a push/pull shut off but there is no lever/cable run for it. When i eventualy install one it will connect to the compression release lever on the opposite side of the head from the throttle levers. Pull open the compression release to kill the motor.

For now I shut my motor down by pulling the throttle all the way back (there is no stop to prevent shutting motor off with throttle; stupid set up imo)
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post #13 of 20 Old 10-15-2008
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w/ Pictures

Hertfordnc,

Hopefully the pictures of my Yanmar manual will be included with this post, and hopefully they will help you. Yanmar considers the exhaust manifold and mixing elbow to be disposable items and should be replaced every few years. It doesn't look like you have a heat exchanger. If this is correct, seawater flows through your engine, water jacket portion of exhaust manifold, mixing elbow (where it combinds w/ exhaust), into some sort of exhaust sump (I don't know the real name but it looks like an enclosed bucket), through an exhaust hose to the stern, and finally exits the stern. Depending upon what style of exhaust system you have, the water may exit the exhaust manifold, flow to the stern where some will exit the boat, and the rest will come back to the mixing elbow.

What you need to know when ordering a new exhaust manifold and mixing elbow is that Yanmar changed the water flow (I believe eliminating the route to the stern between manifold and mixing elbow) at some point. So, make sure the right parts are ordered...old system and new system parts may not be compatible.

I hope this helps...

Skipper, J/36 "Zero Tolerance"

PS You probably want to replace your impeller, and clean out the exhaust sump bucket thing...along with replacing the engine zincs while you're doing the engine maint. thing.
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post #14 of 20 Old 10-15-2008
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Sorry that everyone had to list to port in order to see the pictures of the manual, but it was the best way to maximize the size while capturing the most data.
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post #15 of 20 Old 10-15-2008
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TRILOGY HUNTER

thanks for the shut down info throttle back was my plan once i get this eng going, hasnt actually been run for about 10 yrs.

how about starting? the manual shows old style and new style panel with key. i have old style with key but no "push button" so im thinking the key starts it, but havent got anyone to confirm this as yet, is that what yours is set up like? ........or anyone else with 1978 2qm20h

scott
aubergine
1978 oday 32
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post #16 of 20 Old 10-16-2008 Thread Starter
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my 1976 Camper Nicholson (english) has a key and no start button. I don't know if there ever was a shutoff. I just pull the throttle back.

Meanwhile, since my original post, I identified the correct part and called Torrenson and spoke to Kelly. She does know her stuff.

Thanks to all for the education.

In over my head?
First Boat, a well-equipped 1977 Camper Nicholson 31
What is all this stuff and how does it work?
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post #17 of 20 Old 10-16-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J36ZT View Post
Sorry that everyone had to list to port in order to see the pictures of the manual, but it was the best way to maximize the size while capturing the most data.
No problem. My boat has an inherent list to starboard so this sort of balance it. cheers!

Ken
2002 Hunter 326, SV Millennium 2
1999 Macgregor 26X, SV Millennium
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post #18 of 20 Old 10-31-2010
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I got the same problem!!!

I have a 1978 Endeavour 32 with a Yanmar 20 and just last weekend the threaded coupling between the manifold flange, which is what the piece is that you unbolted, and the heat exchanger, the elbow that hooks up to the exhaust hose.
I took mine apart yesterday and will now start looking for replacement parts. in one pic you will see that we tried to savage the parts with no luck. the coupling just cradled into the exchanger as we tried to prier it out!
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post #19 of 20 Old 12-13-2010
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Exhaust manifold for yanmar 3gm30f

I have a 1997 3GM30F engine with coolant leaking into the crankase. I have been told that pressure test of the coolant system will inducate if the exhaust manufold gasket is leaking. Can anyone verify this technique and how is it done?
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post #20 of 20 Old 12-13-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richterry View Post
I have a 1997 3GM30F engine with coolant leaking into the crankase. I have been told that pressure test of the coolant system will inducate if the exhaust manufold gasket is leaking. Can anyone verify this technique and how is it done?
A leaky exhaust manifold gasket will not allow water into the crankcase, a leaky head gasket will. Pressure test the coolant system to diagnose. DO NOT run the engine with water in the crankcase. Replacing the head gasket is fairly straightforward if you caught it early enough, rebuilding the bottom end isn't.
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