Engine Installation; advice required! - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 19 Old 10-17-2008 Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Hull, United Kingdom
Posts: 62
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
Engine Installation; advice required!

Hi,
I'm currently putting an engine in my old Eygthene 24 quarter tonner, i have a Yanmar 1gm10 thats going to go in, as well as an aquadrive flexible coupling that i have come into possesion of, which i will be installing if at all possible to reduce vibration from the engine and stress on the transmission etc.

I have a rough idea formed in my head of how i'm going to do it, but i would like to see other peoples angles on how they would attack the problem, as i don't want to influence anyones answers, i'll state what i was going to do after a few posts have been made. (And any changes i will be making in because of the replies!)

The parts i am looking for advice with are engine positioning, hole location for the stern tube, p bracket location etc, basically the best way to get everything properly lined up or as close to it as possible to minimise wear (obviously the aquadrive will help in this).
As the boat had an engine in the distant past the engine bearers are already in place, and i have measured them as the correct witdth for the engine (pics attached), so really just tips on getting every lined up and in the right place.

Sorry it was so long winded, help greatly appreciated, thanks!

Rich



Hi, i'm restoring my old quarter tonner on a budget! Read my blog if your interested!

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RichP is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 Old 10-17-2008
Senior Member
 
tommays's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,295
Thanks: 1
Thanked 30 Times in 30 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
While the engine beds are there it does not sound like there is any shaft hole in the hull


I have spent a bit of time on Tartan 10s with the 1 cyl diesel and the output of the alternator is nice but it is really rough compared to the outboard i see on your blog


1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1981 J24 Tangent 2930
Tommays
Northport NY


If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by tommays; 10-17-2008 at 07:52 PM.
tommays is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 19 Old 10-17-2008
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 16,350
Thanks: 101
Thanked 304 Times in 294 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
The angle on your engine beds seems quite steep - and looking at your hull form and the location of that heavy skeg means you'll need a steep shaft angle to drop the prop shaft through the hull before the skeg starts. Does Yanmar specify a maximum installed angle for the engine? I seem to remember they did and it may be something to check...

While I fully sympathize with the idea of getting the outboard off the transom, in this case I have to wonder if the money/effort involved in putting an engine in wouldn't be better spent on other projects. However I'm guessing that you have a problem with keeping the prop in the water as it is now.

I also wonder if using that obviously used coupling is a good idea.. Since you're doing the install from step one it seems you could build it so that that coupling is not really required - but then again one-lung diesels are always quite lumpy....

Is there an inboard-powered sistership that you can get measurements from? That's where I'd start, esp for location of the shaft log.

But honestly if you're not having problems with propulsion now, I'd think about selling the motor and getting some new sails/gear etc.....

All of which boils down to not helping you out very much.. sorry......

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
Faster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 19 Old 10-17-2008
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 536
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Typically there are some people answering who do not answer the question but give dumb advice.

The way we did it was to drill the hole in the hull for the propellor shaft first.
The hole should be the same OD as your shaft log.
Next attach the shaft to the engine coupling without the flex coupling after putting the shaft through the hole....you are going to use the shaft as a "pointer"

At this point you have the engine suspended by a come along or chain block and the shaft is attached to the transmission sticking out the hole.
When the shaft is centered in the hole and the engine is at an acceptable angle, take measurements and build your "bearers" or spacers to fit to the existing bearers.

After you have the motor bolted down to your newly built bearers or bed you will insert the cutlass bearing in the stern tube or log and slide it up the end of the shaft (from the outside)
There will probably be an angle mismatch between the flange of the shaft log and the outside of the hull. Mix up some epoxy with an appropriate filler to make the mix stiff enough to hold itself up. Apply this to the area around the hole and slide the shaft log back up to press a "face" into the epoxy mix. Use some plastic on the shaft log flange so the epoxy does not stick to it.
After the epoxy dries you now have a matching face.
Drill your mounting holes for the flange of the log (through the face you just made and through the hull.

Thats essentially it.
Feel free to PM for more details




Quote:
Originally Posted by RichP View Post
Hi,
I'm currently putting an engine in my old Eygthene 24 quarter tonner, i have a Yanmar 1gm10 thats going to go in, as well as an aquadrive flexible coupling that i have come into possesion of, which i will be installing if at all possible to reduce vibration from the engine and stress on the transmission etc.

I have a rough idea formed in my head of how i'm going to do it, but i would like to see other peoples angles on how they would attack the problem, as i don't want to influence anyones answers, i'll state what i was going to do after a few posts have been made. (And any changes i will be making in because of the replies!)

The parts i am looking for advice with are engine positioning, hole location for the stern tube, p bracket location etc, basically the best way to get everything properly lined up or as close to it as possible to minimise wear (obviously the aquadrive will help in this).
As the boat had an engine in the distant past the engine bearers are already in place, and i have measured them as the correct witdth for the engine (pics attached), so really just tips on getting every lined up and in the right place.

Sorry it was so long winded, help greatly appreciated, thanks!

Rich


GBurton is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 19 Old 10-17-2008
Senior Member
 
Maine Sail's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Maine Coast
Posts: 5,789
Thanks: 18
Thanked 204 Times in 154 Posts
Rep Power: 16
       
The best way to

The best way to start is with a laser sight. You can use ones made for rifles in a pinch but you'll need to machine a slug for it to fit in that then gets inserted into the strut. The laser is inserted in the strut and shot at the hull. It is very important that the laser fits perfectly in the strut and machining of the slug will be required. This will be your dead center mark for where the hole for the stern tube needs to be drilled in the hull. It's fairly critical that the shaft line up dead center in the stern tube when you're done as shaft whip, combined with an off center tube, can cause some nasty cyclical vibrations/harmonics and potentially wear through the stern tube..

From there on out it is fairly straight forward. I would make a jig or replica of your engines mounting points with the transmission output flange to exact scale. This will make it a lot easier to re-build the engine beds and get everything aligned before actually bringing the engine into the boat..

______
-Maine Sail / CS-36T


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.




© Images In Posts Property of Compass Marine Inc.



Last edited by Maine Sail; 10-17-2008 at 10:03 PM.
Maine Sail is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 19 Old 10-17-2008
Telstar 28
 
sailingdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 12 Posts
Rep Power: 14
         
Part of the problem you may run into is the boat's hull may change shape slightly when it is lowered into the water... so take that into consideration when doing measurements and such.

Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
sailingdog is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 19 Old 10-17-2008
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 536
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Yes - you will have to check alignment when the boat goes in the water. It should be really close, but do not rely on the flex coupling to correct misalignment. You should get it to within 1,2 or 3 thousandths of an inch without the flex coupling

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Part of the problem you may run into is the boat's hull may change shape slightly when it is lowered into the water... so take that into consideration when doing measurements and such.
GBurton is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 19 Old 10-18-2008
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 536
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Just realised you don't have a flex coupling. I think the alignment is still critical though. You will have a lot of vibration even with the aquadrive if its off I believe.
Those are very nice those aquadrives
GBurton is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 19 Old 10-18-2008 Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Hull, United Kingdom
Posts: 62
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
An alignment of up to around 4 degrees is apparantly acceptable with aquadrive, some people use it to mount the engine flat.

There is another boat with a 1gm using the standard mounts, but his installation imo has the p-bracket a bit to far aft to use a folding prop. (His is 3 bladed)

The outboard is not acceptable for the boat, the prop regularly cavitates with even a moderate swell, and its a pig to get up and down!

Hi, i'm restoring my old quarter tonner on a budget! Read my blog if your interested!

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RichP is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 19 Old 10-18-2008 Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Hull, United Kingdom
Posts: 62
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
The angle on your engine beds seems quite steep - and looking at your hull form and the location of that heavy skeg means you'll need a steep shaft angle to drop the prop shaft through the hull before the skeg starts. Does Yanmar specify a maximum installed angle for the engine? I seem to remember they did and it may be something to check...
Sorry for the double post, just spotted this, on all the others i have seen, the propshaft passes through the skeg. The bearers are not that steep at all when you see them.

Hi, i'm restoring my old quarter tonner on a budget! Read my blog if your interested!

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RichP is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bleeding your Yanmar Engine artbyjody Gear & Maintenance 38 06-20-2014 02:34 PM
Rebuild vs replace diesel engine Ilenart Gear & Maintenance 40 02-21-2010 10:23 PM
Caring for the Cruising Outboard Doreen Gounard Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 04-22-2003 08:00 PM
Safety Check Mark Matthews Learning to Sail Articles 0 01-25-2000 07:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome