Join Date: Jun 2006
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 12
I've rebuilt one and parted out three.
They are quite durable and worthy of continued care and feeding. A couple of suggestions you haven't listed: If you are removing the engine for cleaning/paint job, consider tapping an elbow into a low spot in the oil pan and adding a stopcock in front of that. It makes oil changes much cleaner and easier: simply run the engine until the oil is warm (15 minutes at idle at dock) and then switch off, pump out and refill as per normal).
Consider getting the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) device from Indigo (I think). Consider getting Moyer's rebuild kit. Consider using RJ12C gapped to .040 rather than the stock RJ8s (Champion: equivalents are online). Consider "refreshing" the gaskets and make sure the water pump impeller is good every season. Consider putting a filter basket between the water pump and the side of the block: you can see if gruesome stuff is getting minced in the impeller and can remedy the situation WITHOUT getting goo in the block. Consider rewiring the A4 panel entirely (you can order a new wiring loom) and getting rid of the easily corroded glass fuse holders. Consider checking the squirrel cage blower for intactness and consider an Atwood-style blower in the engine compartment itself for reasons of easier access. Mount it aft of the carb side.
Consider also getting a plastic VETUS style "waterlock" instead of the old "soupcan" waterlifts, which can corrode and fail. The single biggest issue I have had with marine engines is failed or compromised cooling and/or exhaust systems, leading to water in the block and hours of unhappiness.
Lastly, put a spin on Aquapro or Quicksilver-style fuel-water separator inline before your fuel pump, and make it a habit to shut off both the seawater intake seacock and the fuel line **** (which is best put above and to the left of the engine away from both the carb side and the coil, if the coil's still there.