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  #21  
Old 10-20-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
use thickened epoxy instead. bondo won't create a decent water-proof seal with the plywood and it will get wet and then delaminate.
Hmm, I was wrong about the transom. It's only thick in the location of the OB mount. It's 1/4" thick fibreglass where the BBQ bracket was mounted. I will epoxy a layer of glass cloth on the inside, and fill the hole on the outside with epoxy as SD suggests.

Eric.
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  #22  
Old 10-20-2008
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Quote:
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go with option 2
I have 1/4" clear lexan on hand. I will have to buy smoked lexan. If the frames are toast, I will buy some smoked lexan, but if I can reuse the frames, I would like to used the clear lexan I have. Are you concerned about painting the aluminum frames? should I leave them natural if they can be reused?

Eric
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  #23  
Old 10-21-2008
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I find the frames make the boat look really dated unless they're in immaculate shape. Many newer boats are going with the bolted on deadlights and no frames. If you decide to go the through-bolted deadlight route... a few suggestions.

1) Drill the fastener holes a bit oversized and —this will allow for the expansion of the glazing material

2) Chamfer/countersink both sides of each fastener hole slightly—this will help prevent stress cracks from occuring at the holes

3) Paint the inner side's outer most 1" with black paint—this will hide the mess created by the bedding compound and make the installation look a lot neater

4) Heavier is better—don't skimp on the thickness of the glazing material. In a storm—it may be the only thing keeping the breaking waves from getting in.
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  #24  
Old 10-21-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllThumbs View Post
I will epoxy a layer of glass cloth on the inside, and fill the hole on the outside with epoxy as SD suggests.

Eric.
Eric,
no need for the cloth on the inside. Put a nice square of masking tape over the inside of the hole, and fill from the other side with the thickened epoxy. When it sets, remove the tape.

If you haven't put them in your Favorites, go to the West System epoxy website. Loads of great info there.

Mike
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  #25  
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Thanks for the link.

Ok, I have been shopping (at the hardware store) for paint. Not much selection for oil based paints these days. Here is what I have found:

1) 2 part epoxy garage floor paint. Only two choices for colours (grey, tan), and I am not sure it's compatible with existing paint, so this is out.
2) 1 part "epoxy" garage floor paint. Tintable so colour choice is there but this seems to be a latex paint since cleanup is water. I think they are using the word "epoxy" as a marketing ploy. I don't trust this one.
3) Regular high quality oil based exterior "rust" paint. (Lot's of colour choice here. Available in both satin and high gloss.
4) I have been looking for "polyurathane" paint but have only seen it in clear coat at the hardware store. No coloured polyurathane to be found.

So, I am leaning towards high quality, high gloss exterior oil based paint. Fire engine red for the hull, off white for the deck and cockpit.

I want to get it painted soon before it's too cold. Also, I need it painted before the windows and companion hatch combing can be done.

Eric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllThumbs View Post
I have 1/4" clear lexan on hand. I will have to buy smoked lexan. If the frames are toast, I will buy some smoked lexan, but if I can reuse the frames, I would like to used the clear lexan I have. Are you concerned about painting the aluminum frames? should I leave them natural if they can be reused?

Eric

You would be surprised what a cotton wheel and a good polishing compound can do with those aluminum frames.
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  #27  
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Ace

Ace hardware has a tintable 1 part oil pased polyurethane Floor and Porch paint which seems to be just the ticket frankly. Unless I hear otherwise, that is most likely what I will be using. They don't seem to link to it on their site. They have a Tile Red standard color but I don't know what it looks like really. They also sell quarts which would be nice if you only need a bit but of course a gallon is less than twice what a quart is (13 vs 22 or so).

And yeah, I don't see how an "eopxy" paint can be water based either, although some of the latex based paints are actually very good these days.

That's actually close to the scheme I was going to use although I wanted more of a brick red on the bottom.
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  #28  
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Just don't paint below the waterline or in the bilge. Paint doesn't stick well in areas that are generally wet.

Not a big fan of oil-based paints on a boat. IMHO you'd be much better off getting a proper marine paint, and it would end up costing a lot less in the long run. If you think about the fact that 95% of work in a good paint job is prep, and a cheaper non-marine paint will come off in less time than a decent marine two-part LPU paint, like AwlCraft 2000, AwlGrip or Imron, you will end up spending more on the cheap paint in the long run.

Another good place to get paint to use on the topsides of a boat is an automotive paint supply house. Many of their paints are formulated to stick very well to fiberglass (corvettes for example) and are very weather resistant and fairly durable.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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Last edited by sailingdog; 10-21-2008 at 01:51 PM.
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  #29  
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Well, I went to a paint store and they did have the polyurethane paint so I picked up two gallons. One red, one off white. I'll see how it works out and report.

A question about the deck. I am planning to remove the hardware, paint, and replace hardware. Is this wise or should I mask the hardware and paint around it? There are a few items rivited on so I may leave these, and remove what I can.

Eric
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  #30  
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I reinstalled my port lights with Lex purchased from Home Depot. The frames I had where in the same shape as yours, also redoing my boat on the cheap I carefully used grinder and sander to get the old oxidation off of the frames to bare metal. Believe it or not I used rustolium black gloss paint in 2 coats, hasn't chipped and they look good! I will post a picture for you if you like. One thing with using the old frames is if you can get the correct spline and sponge for them. Tanzers have a great following and I was able to find the parts i need in Canada. BE CAREFUL TAKING THEM OUT! I got pissed at a few and they bent slightly. We get alot of rain and they haven't leaked but was a PITA getting them back in. Also couldn't tell if you only had one window on ea side? Mark them so that your holes line up, same with inside frames if app.
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