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My Project Boat

100K views 576 replies 81 participants last post by  AllThumbs 
#1 ·
I bought a project boat. A 1973 DS 20. My plan is to fix her up and sail her for a couple years at least. I have a million questions, so rather than start a million threads, I am starting just this one. I plan on ask questions pertaining to the project here, and documenting the project here with plenty of photographs etc.

We will see how it goes. There may be times when little progress is made due to time/weather constraints, and other times where there is a flurry of activities.

I am hoping this thread serves as some motivation to others considering a project boat, and also as log/scrap book of the project.

I have posted this pic in the "buying a boat" area, but here she is again on the day we met. I have since towed her the 120 miles home. More specific pictures related to questions soon.

I paid $750.00 for her, so keep that in mind when you see the project unfold. :)

Eric
 

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#3 ·
Be careful about using "hardware" store parts on a boat, since many are not suitable for a marine environment and can pose a serious danger if used in one. If you're on freshwater, you're in less danger using hardware store parts, but not completely clear of it IMHO.
 
#532 ·
This is a good point and worth reinforcing. When faced with sticker shock at the boat supply store it's tempting to think you can get the same thing at a fraction of the price at the local hardware store. Problem is, you can't look at a piece of metal and tell how strong it is. Hefty looking metal shackles made with inferior steel or casting methods (china?) can break under surprisingly light loads. Quality costs more, and boats tend to have specialized needs warranting specialized hardware.

That's not to say that all boat parts are fairly priced - it absolutely pays to shop around - my son and I have a running joke, trying to guess - how much would you pay for 'X' - and the rational always is...well' its for a boat so we start at $80.00 and work up from there.

The trick is to prioritize the must have's from the want to have's and don't skimp on quality or safety - you won't be sorry.
 
#5 ·
Yeah, there is a slotted stub keel and swinging centerboard.

SD, When I refer to hardware store, I mean cosmetic parts (paint, varnish, windows). Structural glass and epoxy, standing rigging, halyards, etc will be marine.

I will be sailing freshwater. For now a small inland lake, future possibly great lakes (ontario, erie).

Eric
 

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#6 ·
good enough.... just was checking...
 
#10 ·
Congratulations on your new purchase - looking forward to seeing the project progress.

I empathise with your need to keep to a budget. I am in the same position and offer the following advice based on my own experience.

Keep trawling the Internet. I have saved a lot of money by finding special offers or reduced price items and now have a list of suppliers on my Favorites that I use from time to time.

Don't forget Ebay. There is a wealth of marine stuff out there and some of it to be got for a real bargain. You just have to de discriminating and go for well-known brand names if possible.

There are reputable suppliers of used items out there, too. You wouldn't want to buy crucial performance items this way, but other bits and pieces may be fine.

If you have local suppliers, check them out first. They may be able to do a good deal. We have a supplier in Annapolis who often comes up trumps in this respect.

Finally, keep your eyes open for unexpected sources. Our local WalMart has an aisle of assorted (and I do mean assorted!) marine items (dock lines, fenders, electrical parts etc) at very reasonable prices.

Good luck and keep asking them questions!!
 
#11 ·
The paint looks ok in the picture, not as good in real life. Here is the stuff I plan on doing and the order:

Remove all deck hardware, windows
Prep and paint hull and deck
Reinstall/replace deck hardware/windows as needed
New companion entrance door
New companion entrance combing

And in no particular order:
all new running rigging
some standing rigging
needs a (used) outboard motor
repair or replace mainsail cover
replace tiller arm
Re-tab some plywood bulkheads inside (bilge area)
The bowrail is missing
 
#12 ·
That sounds pretty good. Thats pretty much the same thing I am going through right now with my project boat.

How is your keel? Does it need refinishing?
Thats just one of the things I have to do that isnt on your list. But if it doesnt need it then good for you!

Looks like you may have it planned pretty well, dont get discouraged.
 
#15 ·
Ok, first task is to fix some holes in the transom. All above the water line. The PO had a BBQ mount braket here. There are similar holes where a OB motor was mounted . The transom is about 1.5" thick ply core fibreglass. The plan is to countersink these holes on both sides of the transom with a countersink bit and fill the holes from both sides with Bondo (autobody filler). The countersink will help keep the filler in place. Then sand smooth.
 

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#19 ·
use thickened epoxy instead. bondo won't create a decent water-proof seal with the plywood and it will get wet and then delaminate.
 
#16 ·
These windows (dead lights?) will be removed.

Option 1 is to clean the frames, repaint them black, then clean or replace the lexan. Reinstall with SS screws and sealer.

Option 2 is to just replace with smoked lexan mounted externally with ss screws and no frames.

I will see how the frames look once removed.

Eric
 

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#20 ·
go with option 2
These windows (dead lights?) will be removed.

Option 1 is to clean the frames, repaint them black, then clean or replace the lexan. Reinstall with SS screws and sealer.

Option 2 is to just replace with smoked lexan mounted externally with ss screws and no frames.

I will see how the frames look once removed.

Eric
 
#17 ·
Here is the companion way opening. The PO removed the combing and put on this decent looking and handy 2 part doorway. The trouble is the gap between them keeps no rainwater out. My plan is to install some combing and make a new slide out one peice companion way door.
 

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#122 ·
Looks like if you just put a nice stainless strip over the crack it would shed water just fine.

Maybe one inch screwed to one side and over lapping the other side a half inch?

Here is the companion way opening. The PO removed the combing and put on this decent looking and handy 2 part doorway. The trouble is the gap between them keeps no rainwater out. My plan is to install some combing and make a new slide out one peice companion way door.
 
#23 ·
I find the frames make the boat look really dated unless they're in immaculate shape. Many newer boats are going with the bolted on deadlights and no frames. If you decide to go the through-bolted deadlight route... a few suggestions.

1) Drill the fastener holes a bit oversized and —this will allow for the expansion of the glazing material

2) Chamfer/countersink both sides of each fastener hole slightly—this will help prevent stress cracks from occuring at the holes

3) Paint the inner side's outer most 1" with black paint—this will hide the mess created by the bedding compound and make the installation look a lot neater

4) Heavier is better—don't skimp on the thickness of the glazing material. In a storm—it may be the only thing keeping the breaking waves from getting in.
 
#25 ·
Thanks for the link.

Ok, I have been shopping (at the hardware store) for paint. Not much selection for oil based paints these days. Here is what I have found:

1) 2 part epoxy garage floor paint. Only two choices for colours (grey, tan), and I am not sure it's compatible with existing paint, so this is out.
2) 1 part "epoxy" garage floor paint. Tintable so colour choice is there but this seems to be a latex paint since cleanup is water. I think they are using the word "epoxy" as a marketing ploy. I don't trust this one.
3) Regular high quality oil based exterior "rust" paint. (Lot's of colour choice here. Available in both satin and high gloss.
4) I have been looking for "polyurathane" paint but have only seen it in clear coat at the hardware store. No coloured polyurathane to be found.

So, I am leaning towards high quality, high gloss exterior oil based paint. Fire engine red for the hull, off white for the deck and cockpit.

I want to get it painted soon before it's too cold. Also, I need it painted before the windows and companion hatch combing can be done.

Eric
 
#27 ·
Ace

Ace hardware has a tintable 1 part oil pased polyurethane Floor and Porch paint which seems to be just the ticket frankly. Unless I hear otherwise, that is most likely what I will be using. They don't seem to link to it on their site. They have a Tile Red standard color but I don't know what it looks like really. They also sell quarts which would be nice if you only need a bit but of course a gallon is less than twice what a quart is (13 vs 22 or so).

And yeah, I don't see how an "eopxy" paint can be water based either, although some of the latex based paints are actually very good these days.

That's actually close to the scheme I was going to use although I wanted more of a brick red on the bottom.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Just don't paint below the waterline or in the bilge. Paint doesn't stick well in areas that are generally wet. :)

Not a big fan of oil-based paints on a boat. IMHO you'd be much better off getting a proper marine paint, and it would end up costing a lot less in the long run. If you think about the fact that 95% of work in a good paint job is prep, and a cheaper non-marine paint will come off in less time than a decent marine two-part LPU paint, like AwlCraft 2000, AwlGrip or Imron, you will end up spending more on the cheap paint in the long run.

Another good place to get paint to use on the topsides of a boat is an automotive paint supply house. Many of their paints are formulated to stick very well to fiberglass (corvettes for example) and are very weather resistant and fairly durable.
 
#29 ·
Well, I went to a paint store and they did have the polyurethane paint so I picked up two gallons. One red, one off white. I'll see how it works out and report.

A question about the deck. I am planning to remove the hardware, paint, and replace hardware. Is this wise or should I mask the hardware and paint around it? There are a few items rivited on so I may leave these, and remove what I can.

Eric
 
#30 ·
I reinstalled my port lights with Lex purchased from Home Depot. The frames I had where in the same shape as yours, also redoing my boat on the cheap I carefully used grinder and sander to get the old oxidation off of the frames to bare metal. Believe it or not I used rustolium black gloss paint in 2 coats, hasn't chipped and they look good! I will post a picture for you if you like. One thing with using the old frames is if you can get the correct spline and sponge for them. Tanzers have a great following and I was able to find the parts i need in Canada. BE CAREFUL TAKING THEM OUT! I got pissed at a few and they bent slightly. We get alot of rain and they haven't leaked but was a PITA getting them back in. Also couldn't tell if you only had one window on ea side? Mark them so that your holes line up, same with inside frames if app.
 
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