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post #1 of 14 Old 10-22-2008 Thread Starter
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Barber haulers, rigging question

I can't seem to figure out how to rig barber haulers with one continuous line. Anyone have any suggestions?

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post #2 of 14 Old 10-22-2008
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Can you further explain what you mean by this?

In my limited experience barbeerhaulers have a seperate line on port and on starbord

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post #3 of 14 Old 10-22-2008
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Difficult to do this with a single line, as the whole affair must be tacked.. since most headsail clews are a least a little behind the mast, it's tough to get a central attachment point for the barberhaul that works.. It would have to be at the front of the mast - giving it a forward component to its pull in most cases. With a non overlapping jib you might get away with it, but not on anything larger.

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Last edited by Faster; 10-22-2008 at 03:49 PM.
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post #4 of 14 Old 10-22-2008 Thread Starter
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oh, so I'd need tackle for both port and starboard. Bummer.

If given the choice, would you do the barber haulers (upwind) or look into rigging twings (downwind)? Which seems to have the most benefit? Or is it boat dependant?

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If you're trying to optimize your trim all around the race course you may need to do both. Barber haulers are relatively rare these days; if the genoa tracks are properly placed then they really aren't necessary. OTOH twingers on your spinnaker sheets/guys can make the difference between a broach free run or a crash, esp in a stronger breeze. Proper use of twingers can really stabilize a chute when things start to get exciting. I'll elaborate on that if you need it...

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post #6 of 14 Old 10-22-2008
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I agree, you should only need them for close reaching. In this case just put a snatch block on the rail and use and extra line.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInMD View Post
I agree, you should only need them for close reaching. In this case just put a snatch block on the rail and use and extra line.
Good point... close reaching legs tend to be longer, and the payoff will make the "hassle" of setting up and removing the barberhaul worthwhile..

Ron

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post #8 of 14 Old 10-23-2008 Thread Starter
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My clew is already inside the rail, so I guess they wouldn't do much on my boat.

I'd be interested in more information on twingers. As I understand, they're only "on" the guy, and are a better way to close the luff of the spin? Currently I have a down pole control line going to the midpoint of the spin pole, is this not as desirable? Another Merit 25 I race on doesn't have a down pole, just the twingers.

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post #9 of 14 Old 10-23-2008
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The standard J24 has a port and starboard twing and a LOT of people don't use the downhaul anymore BUT if somebody messes up on twings when jibing you can get a really high pole in heavy air




On the 35' boat i race on it has sloted toe rail that allows a snach block to be placed in the ideal position to get the correct sheeting angle when reaching with a jib

For the most part we are trying to get the block forward enough to pull down the upper part of the jib so it is pulling well

It gets more use when we race JAM rather than spinaker becasue we have a starcut reacher chute


There are also angles of sail on the large and small boats that work out well when using a spinaker or wisker pole to help the jib sheeting angle


It takes a huge amount of time and a good notebook to find the best thing to do in a given condition as even a few knots of wind speed will change the best (fast) trim

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Last edited by tommays; 10-23-2008 at 09:48 AM.
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post #10 of 14 Old 10-23-2008
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I think 505s use a continuous twings...
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