Originally Posted by Finallybuyingaboat
1) When I hear about "roll & tip", doesn't the brush get coated with paint? How often do you clean it off, every stroke or every so often? How do you clean it?
When I painted my boat, I didn't use one of the recommended brushes. I used a very soft nylon bristle brush from an art supply store. I got a much better finish with this brush (i tried the others) but it didn't hold paint. I hung masking paper at the water line, and at the bottom of each vertical stroke I just wiped the extra paint off onto the paper. The best part was that the brushes I used were in a 3 pack for 3 dollars. I only used the largest brush in the package, and threw it away after each coat of paint. The brush was cheaper than the thinner to clean it.
2) When painting my hull, rolling & tipping, I assume I should go vertically to keep the shortest wet edge. Am I correct? (Will be using 2 part polyurethane) If I paint vertically, I assume I put painter tape at the water line. How do I ensure there is no chance of the paint peeling away once I pull the tape? How do I get the paint on the hull & the paint on the stripe at the waterline to be the same thickness without a visible line where they meet?
Vertical is the way I went. I used dark blue paint on the hull with a white boot stripe. First I taped off the water line, then painted the boot stripe with no concern for the upper edge of the stripe. Then I taped the top of the boot stripe and painted the hull. Don't worry about lifting the paint. As long as you let the paint dry overnight before taping, and peel the tape back onto itself. You want the greatest angle posible between the peeling tape and the hull.
3) The paint on the hull is not great, but once sanded may be okay. Do I need to take it all off and apply 2 coats of primer? Can I just paint over the sanded old paint? If I sand the old paint down to a good surface, can I just use 1 coat of primer? Ideas?????
2 part paints will lift off 1 part paints. This means you could put a lot of work into prepping the old paint, only to have it peel off while applying the primer. Test your existing paint by soaking a folded rag in thinner that you'll be using, for interlux perfection it will be 2333N, and tape it to the hull for a couple of hours. Pull the rag off and inspect. If the paint is even soft, much less peeling up, I would remove it.
4) I want to use the same paint for the "skid" portion of the deck and cabin as I am on the hull. Should I add a flattener to cut the glare? (I will be using Kiwi Grip on the Non Skid portion)
I did. I mixed paint and flattening agent in equal amounts. There is no gloss, but a glow. It's almost like a pearl. I used interlux Intergrip. I don't know anything about Kiwigrip. Intergrip mixed very well with the perfection paint and I have an excellent and very durable non skid on my boat now.
Any general tips for using 2 part paint? I know not to spray it without professional respirators, but any tricks I could benefit from?
I thinned the paint a little more than recommended. You'll know how much to thin by how the tipping brush feels. If it drags, you need more thinner. Be careful though, the thinner the paint the easier it runs. Rolling the paint properly is as hard as tipping, if not harder. The trick is to get exactly the right amount of paint on the boat. Too little and you'll get an ugly dry spot, too much and you'll have a custom waterfall scene on the side of your boat. The trouble is that by the time you find out it's too dry it's too late to fix it, and the paint doesn't run until you're about 5 feet past it. By then it is also too late. Don't try to go back and fix anything. You're better off to just wet sand and put another coat on. Find a friend to help roll and tip. One person can do it, but it's at least 3 times easier with 2 people.
I almost forgot about the most important item that most people try to skimp on. Tape. Make your initial line for the water line and the boot stripe with 3M fineline tape. It's a very thin plastic tape. The thinner the tape the less of a ridge you'll have at the line. Press this tape down, I used a wall paper seam roller. Then masking tape. Not the regular tape you get at Home Depot, but tape for painting cars. I got mine at an auto parts store that sold body work supplies as well. Cheap tape has cheap adhesive. The paint will crawl right under it and ruin your paint job. Good tape costs about twice as much as Home Depot tape (both made by 3M) but your entire paint job depends on it.