Whale Gusher Pump Question - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 25 Old 10-29-2008 Thread Starter
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Sailingdog
Thanks so much. Your diagram and explaination makes perfect sense. I should have been able to figure this out on my own but I guess you assume that the previous owner would have known what they were doing and not question it. Of course, I know better but it's a mindset that must be remembered. I'll be doing this over the next couple months. One other benefit of this is that it will give me the opportunity to change out the hoses since the Y valve hoses used in the modification were the cheap, corrigated type (designed for bilges and ventillation I think).
Thanks again, Ron
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post #12 of 25 Old 10-29-2008
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On most boats I've worked on, I assume the previous owner was completely insane and incompetent... and I'm usually a lot closer to the mark than you would be assuming that they're competent and know what they're doing.

I can't say how many horror stories I could tell based on the work done by PO on friends' boats. Fortunately for me, my boat didn't have a PO...so all I have to worry about is the bad work done by the incompetent electrician I hired originally to commission the boat. Big mistake...

Don't go cheap on the hoses... that's a false economy...and re-doing head hoses is generally not what you ever want to be doing if at all avoidable.

If you have any questions, let me know. I'm still kind of wondering why there was a hose parallel to the holding tank and why they chose to put the diaphragm waste pump where they did??? Both are very puzzling.

One last point—Keep the plumbing in the head as simple and short as possible. It reduces the possible problems you can have and the shorter and simpler the plumbing, the less chance you have of it clogging, permeating, leaking, etc, and the less sewage you'll have aboard when you have to replace a hose.

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post #13 of 25 Old 12-07-2008 Thread Starter
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Waste System Re-design

I removed almost all the hoses last week. Fortunatly I had done a pretty good job of flushing the system so it was reasonably "clean" - still stinky though. The system had three types of hoses. One was a Shields 148 (head to diverter). There were 2 or 3 white thing plastic over wire that looked like a minature dryer vent hose - probably a ventillation hose. There was one torn section. Very inferior stuff. Then there were two or three heavier grey hoses that were smooth inside and corrigated on the outside. Probably bilge hose - also inferior with hose end fittings that appear to have been leaky at one time. See attached photo.

[IMG]Desktop\waste sys before.jpg[/IMG]

Have been researching hoses for best values. Plan to go with Jamestown Distributing. The have Shields 101 rubber in 12.5' sections for $54.30. That should get from the toilet to the tank and from the tank to the diverter. These are the sections that will contain waste. I'll replace the diverter to deck fitting and sections to the overboard discharge with the cheaper $2.00 per foot Shields 148 since thy will remain empty or contain non-waste water. I'll use pipe dope on the threaded fittings but not sure what to use on the Shields non-barbed nylon/fiberglass hose fittings.

As to why the existing system was designed the way it was, your guess is as good as mine.

Two questions:
1. Does what I wrote above sound reasonable?
2. What is the best product to use to seal the hoses to the fittings?

Thanks again.

I tried to change the title of the thread to be more applicable than the original one. Perhaps I should (can I?) also move it to the "design" forum.
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post #14 of 25 Old 12-07-2008
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I'd use the good hose for the section from the diverter to the whale gusher, and from the whale gusher to the seacock. These sections can possibly have waste sitting in them, and going with cheaper hose is ill-advised IMHO.
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Have been researching hoses for best values. Plan to go with Jamestown Distributing. The have Shields 101 rubber in 12.5' sections for $54.30. That should get from the toilet to the tank and from the tank to the diverter. These are the sections that will contain waste. I'll replace the diverter to deck fitting and sections to the overboard discharge with the cheaper $2.00 per foot Shields 148 since thy will remain empty or contain non-waste water. I'll use pipe dope on the threaded fittings but not sure what to use on the Shields non-barbed nylon/fiberglass hose fittings.

As to why the existing system was designed the way it was, your guess is as good as mine.

Two questions:
1. Does what I wrote above sound reasonable?
2. What is the best product to use to seal the hoses to the fittings?

Thanks again.

I tried to change the title of the thread to be more applicable than the original one. Perhaps I should (can I?) also move it to the "design" forum.

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—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #15 of 25 Old 12-07-2008 Thread Starter
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Another try at posting my photo
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post #16 of 25 Old 12-07-2008
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BTW, you're much better off using non-corrugated hose. The smooth wall stuff will hold/retain less waste and have a much lower chance of clogging.

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post #17 of 25 Old 12-07-2008 Thread Starter
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I agree and all of what I plan on using is smooth. BTW, here is an excellent video I found on hose selection. Thanks again for all your advice. My (your) new design is much simpler, less hose, and should do just what I want. I should have it re-plumbed in the next few weeks but will have to wait till Summer for the real test.

Video List
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Glad to help. I'm a big fan of simplicity and maximum flexibility when it comes to the plumbing of the head.... Less to break, less to fix...

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #19 of 25 Old 01-15-2009
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Jeez! Just get a bucket!
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post #20 of 25 Old 01-15-2009
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my set up on my 83 hunter is simple. head empties in to top of tank. out of the bottom of the tank comes a line that goes thru a t, one side goes to the deck connection, the other side goes thru a whale pump to a valve over board. all connections are higher than the tank level so the stay "dry". the only draw back i see is if the deck fitting does not seal pumping will suck some air in to the pump
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