Our water heater had the same symptoms as yours, so we installed the Isotherm unit 6 years ago. Connecting it to the engine is easy. We've never connected it to shore power. As mentioned above, limited motoring to an anchorage in the evening warms up the water enough to make it useful for a shower the next morning. The insulation matters. Even 12 hours later, I have to mix in warm water or it's too hot. While I can use marina facilities to shower, I prefer doing so before I leave the boat.
IRMV
__________________ Joel
Pokey III '78 Pearson 323 Bayside, NY ------------------- Be that pig!
"I won't insult your intelligence by suggesting that you really believe what you just said." - Wm. F. Buckley, jr
The hot water tank in my Pearson 28 (2) is pretty rusty and has seen better days. I've had the boat for about two years now and haven't really used it since the heater only works when connected to shore power, which usually means there are marina facilities to be had.
I have the same boat, 1986 P28-2. For what it's worth, my tank is hooked up to the engine and provides blistering hot water after a short run of the engine. The tank is also is a bit rusty (the water isn't) but still functions quite well.
In my opinion, hot water is one of the features that made this boat more attractive to me and I consider it a great feature. As suggested earlier, I'd consider the effect on resale if you remove it. Your call obviously.
Good luck.
__________________
~Jim
1986 Pearson 28-2
Last edited by JSL3 : 10-27-2008 at 12:55 PM.
Reason: spelling
I'm with JSL3. I also have a 28-2 and the hot water is connected to the engine. Are you sure yours isn't?--because that would complicate the tank removal a bit.
I like the hot water--like Jim said, we get super hot water after any kind of engine run. We haven't used the hot much yet, but next year we'll do more overnights, and I know it will be welcome.
__________________ arf145
1987 Pearson 28-2
Chesapeake Bay
The hot water tank in my Pearson 28 (2) is pretty rusty and has seen better days. I've had the boat for about two years now and haven't really used it since the heater only works when connected to shore power, which usually means there are marina facilities to be had.
I'm currently considering removing the tank to free up some space in the lazarette and reduce winterizing hassle, but wanted to get some opinions first to make sure I'm not making a big mistake by not considering all the consequences.
Also, I'm not exactly sure what this project would entail - especially from an electrical standpoint - and how big of an undertaking it represents...
Thanks,Amir
You didn't say, but you probably have a Raritan 6-gallon 110V electric only. Replace it with a new one with both electric and heat exchanger so you will have hot water wherever you go. The new Raritans have fiberglas shells and glass liners and don't rust out like the old ones.
__________________
s/v Paloma, Bristol 29.9, #141
Slipped in Bahia Marina, easy access to Corpus Christi Bay and the Gulf of Mexico.
Hot water is a nice thing to have especially if you ever plan to have guests on board.
__________________
Sailingdog Telstar 28
New England
You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this POST.
A side function of the water heater in the cooling loop is it is an additional heat sink for the diesel, and resale is always better with the option.
Rick
Thanks for all the detailed responses! I'm pretty much convinced that the resale value justifies fixing the situation rather than ditching the tank
johnshasteen/jsl/arf - this is indeed a Raritan 6-gallon electric only, and replacing it with a newer one with a heat exchanger does sound like the best thing to do. Are you referring to the 1700 series? According to their website it's glass-lined steel rather than fiberglass.
More importantly though, how big of an undertaking are we talking about? Is this still within the realm of a DIY project? Any pointers would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks again,
Firstly is your engine fresh water cooled? Engine heated HW is rare with RWC engines.
If it is FWC, then you'd be best to consult with the manufacturer or compare to similar installations as to precisely where to tap into your cooling system for the HW tank. But it's definitely in the DIY realm, simply remove a coolant hose, run it to the tank and back to the other end of the original hose, so that the coolant recirculates through the tank coil as well as cooling the engine.
Getting the connection in the right place is important, you could interfere with the proper circulation of the coolant in the engine if you get it wrong. The manual may show where, or compare to another installation.
The electrical is easy, just reconnect your old tank's wires to the new tank's heating element.
I don't think you'll regret this down the road.....
__________________ Boating in BC waters since the '60s, sailing since 1981. Currently on our 5th boat, a 1984 Fast/Nicholson 345.
Indeed, it's a fresh water cooled engine - a Yanmar 2GM20F.
JSL3 / arf145: I'm assuming you have the same engine? Any chance you'd be able to post pictures of your hot water tank hookup? -- I'm trying to figure out how to run the hoses to a tank in the lazarette...
Thanks again!
