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post #11 of 21 Old 10-27-2008
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BTW, if you didn't check to make sure the deck core is sealed in the area around the chainplate, now would be the time to do it. Hopefully, they put the chainplates through a solid glass portion of the deck... but sometimes they don't.

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post #12 of 21 Old 10-27-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
BTW, if you didn't check to make sure the deck core is sealed in the area around the chainplate, now would be the time to do it. Hopefully, they put the chainplates through a solid glass portion of the deck... but sometimes they don't.
Good point dog. This was also part of the reason for my method of repair. My deck is cored with plywood in that area for the extra compressive strength for the sailtrack bolts. I was starting to see water stains around a couple of the sailtrack bolts a few inches away from the chainplates. Now all is well.


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post #13 of 21 Old 10-28-2008 Thread Starter
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Butyl tape

Thanks for the advice. Is this butyl material easy to use and is it readily available?
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post #14 of 21 Old 10-28-2008
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I got mine at a glass shop. They use it to set glass in window frames.


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post #15 of 21 Old 10-28-2008
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RV shops, glass replacement shops, hardware stores, lots of places will have it.
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Thanks for the advice. Is this butyl material easy to use and is it readily available?

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #16 of 21 Old 10-28-2008
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It looks like this...

It looks like this (don't confuse it with butyl foam). DO NOT USE BLACK!!! Trust me!


Flexibility after nearly 30 years!

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-Maine Sail / CS-36T


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post #17 of 21 Old 10-29-2008
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Perhaps I need to clarify a few things...

I mentioned the use of 5200 b/c that's what the contractor used when they did this to our boat. He also recommended to use that for the hatch I was rebedding but I wanted nothing to do w/ THAT idea for the reason articulated here; namely that it was too powerful an adhesive. I used Sika 291 LOT. I PERSONALLY would have used 3M101 on the chainplates and see that's what others have recommended.

AFA the comment about not wanting a "tight" fit... I should clarify. Yes, you do want a little movement. For the same reason bulkheads should not fit completely tight against the hull but are held off just a schosh and then heavily tabbed to the hull.
The reality is that in cutting a slot for the chainplate to fit through you will NOT be able to cut a hole that fits tightly the entire depth of the cut(good!) but you do want to avoid cutting a big honking hole (3/4" gap in the present situation). 1/8" would be the maximum I would go.

US27 has the exact same situation we had w/ the C320; they used a plywood core instead of solid FG by the chainplates. What should have been a simple rebedding job to eliminate a minor leak turned into a major job b/c the core was wet. UGH.

Also the suggestion of chamfering the slot for the chainplates is a good one. That's why most fittings have a recess on the underside; to provide a good seal.

Good luck!
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post #18 of 21 Old 10-29-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
#4 I strongly advise against sealing anything on the inside of the boat and I vary from a few of the so called experts, such as Vaitses, on this point & with good reason.

Why should you seal only from the top/deck side?

If you develop a leak on the deck side you WANT to know about it asap. If you purposely seal the backing plate side or bellow deck side of a fitting the water will inevitably get trapped in between the top and bottom if a leak develops at deck level. In all my years of boating I have yet to see a leak originate on the dry underside of the deck. Any water that can't drain out, and be seen to effect a repair, can lead to either crevice corrosion of the chain plates or further deck damage if you did not pot the holes with epoxy. By not sealing the backing plate side of a fitting it will allow any leak to be seen and not forced into the deck or left trapped there, starved of oxygen, creating unseen and un-safe crevice corrosion of the through bolts or the chain plate itself.. It is IMPORTANT that a leak on the top side be allowed to leak through so you can address it!!


AGREE COMPLETELY!!! Especially w/ the prevalence of liners on the underside of the decks!
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post #19 of 21 Old 10-29-2008
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Also, if the water is allowed to drain down into the cabin where you will see it, it is far less likely to pool and saturate the deck in that area and find its way into the deck's core.

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #20 of 21 Old 10-31-2008 Thread Starter
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Butyl tape/power tools

Three questions:

1. How do you apply the butyl tape to the chain plate.

2. I want to purchase a router for use on the boat. Any recommendations?

3. Any recommendations on other power tools such as a Dremel tool that would be very useful? I have lots of stuff to do on my 25 year old boat.
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