Gate valves and why we don't use them... - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 29 Old 11-11-2008
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To be the safest, I'd take the rubber hose off and plug that elbo. Then I'd cut a plug to knock into the mushroom thru-hull from the exterior making sure that it does not reach the gate valve inside. Winterize your system and address the thru-hull and new valve at spring haul-out.

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post #22 of 29 Old 11-11-2008 Thread Starter
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Sorry MaineSail. I remember that thread but I keep getting mixed up by BoatLife's advertising. It is a good thing you actually spoke to them otherwise I might have taken their product descriptions too literally

Quote:
Can be applied underwater for emergency repairs. Can be applied to damp surfaces.
and..
Quote:
CURE: Since Life-Calk sealant is a moisture/temperature cure and requires the absorption of moisture from the surrounding atmosphere, an increase in the relative humidity or submersion in water will result in a shorter tack free time and faster cure.
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post #23 of 29 Old 11-11-2008
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Sorry MaineSail. I remember that thread but I keep getting mixed up by BoatLife's advertising. It is a good thing you actually spoke to them otherwise I might have taken their product descriptions too literally



and..
I think both will cure but I'd be more comfortable with a product like 4200 Fast Cure than a slower curing polysulfide given the water and air temps and I generally don't like polyurethanes but I think this is one application that supports a fast cure product.

What I would do is get your boat ready for the tide cycle and tied in place on a dropping tide. At this point, and after plugging it from the outside, remove the gate valve. If you don't break the original seal on the thru-hull doing this yee hah! If it works you still have enough tide to bring her back to your slip and call it a day and if it does leak you're ready for the tide. Even if you break the seal of the thru-hull it will most likely be a drip, drip leak not a gushing river. So you can wait for the tide and be redy to go the minute it drops below the level of the through hull. Fly fishing waders work well to give you more working time. I used to careen my lobster boats when I was younger so I know the drill..

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post #24 of 29 Old 11-11-2008 Thread Starter
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Sounds like a plan Maine. I'll take every tool, material, & part possible to handle anything... Even the splash zone. The boat will start to settle at 11.5' and the thru-hull will expose at around 10' Start working then... I'll have 4 cycles to get it fixed before I will have to get off the grid or stay there for another month! Fun fun fun... BTW I had to get the darn thing Fedexed overnight because the big local marine store is shut down for inventory and no one else had a 1.25" freaking bronze ball valve. Gotta love Alaska. If I'm not too rushed I'll try to take some pictures so you can add a "What to do (or not to do) if you are a pathological procrastinator" section to your thruhull website..
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post #25 of 29 Old 11-12-2008
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Sounds like a plan Maine. I'll take every tool, material, & part possible to handle anything... Even the splash zone. The boat will start to settle at 11.5' and the thru-hull will expose at around 10' Start working then... I'll have 4 cycles to get it fixed before I will have to get off the grid or stay there for another month! Fun fun fun... BTW I had to get the darn thing Fedexed overnight because the big local marine store is shut down for inventory and no one else had a 1.25" freaking bronze ball valve. Gotta love Alaska. If I'm not too rushed I'll try to take some pictures so you can add a "What to do (or not to do) if you are a pathological procrastinator" section to your thruhull website..
Unfortunately 1.25" is a size that many don't stock. I'm lucky enough to be 10 minutes from Hamilton Marine, who does, but the local WM or Boaters World "fahghet about it"!!

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post #26 of 29 Old 11-12-2008
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sailboy,
You might try your local well-drilling supply house. 1-1/4" is a very commonly used pipe size in the water well industry. He may have only forged brass valves on hand but can get either bronze or stainless easy enough. Many of them sell products from these guys who you can see make all three types of ball valves, and yet others. Legend Valve

You might also consult Grainger, although you'll need a commercial account to order from them, if there's one in your area. Here's a list of a few of their bronze ball valves. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...eMatches.shtml

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post #27 of 29 Old 11-12-2008
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I've been following this with some interest. We bought a 1975 38' C&C in July and none of the gate valves work and the surveyor recommended they be replaced with ball valves. Its in the cradle now and I plan to replace the gate valves with ball valves. Can I remove the valve from the through-hull and put on a ball valve or is it pretty well guarenteed that the through-hull is going to spin and I'll need to remove it and rebed it? If that's the case, then, is a flanged valve better?
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post #28 of 29 Old 11-12-2008
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JLprice-

Is the through hull bolted or screwed to the backing plate??? If not, then yes, you'll probably spin the sucker when you're removing the valve.

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post #29 of 29 Old 11-12-2008
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I don't think it has anything holding them in place. I was hoping for an easier fix - I've got enough to do this winter.

Thanks for the help though.
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