Furling Line Hardware -- A New Option - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 68 Old 11-13-2008
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You can still pull the insert free by tightening the screws...it is a lousy design and Harken knows it.
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Originally Posted by Omatako View Post
The advantage of these blocks is that they're mounted outboard of the stanchion so the preesure of the line pushes against the stanchion and doesn't pull on the screws.

These are sweet blocks, I might have a look at them for our boat.

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Last edited by sailingdog; 11-17-2008 at 09:02 AM.
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post #12 of 68 Old 11-13-2008
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I installed the Garhauer stantion blocks for for our furling lines this past summer and I love them. Clunky? Not to my eye. I think the stainless construction of the Garhauer blocks blend in nicely with the stanchions. No plastic on them--I don't see them breaking any time soon.

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post #13 of 68 Old 11-14-2008
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The most important aspect of furler systems is how well you can pull the sail under load. Your stanchion blocks - how they are configured are the most important aspect of the design.

It has nothing to do with "you welt your legs" aspect. If you are welting then you are not sailing properly!

Lotsa of comments on using winches etc, all wrong using winches on furling lines period!!!!...Never!!

simple solution...

run the fairleads outside the stanchions for best mechanical advantage...It is where they should be actually. You get a better angle for starters...

Secondly you keep the deck clear.

The last stanchion block should be 45 degrees to point of incident. IE: 45 degrees to where you pull. It will stick out a hair but provide you the man handling leverage to pull in the genny / jib without using the winch. NEVER EVER use a winch to pull out the furler line... trust me - many $$$$

It either works or it does not and when it does not, it is human error not a result of the furler..Usually wrapped halyards at top of mast of mast or no slack in the tacking leads..

-- Jody

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Last edited by artbyjody; 11-14-2008 at 03:23 AM.
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post #14 of 68 Old 11-14-2008 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artbyjody View Post
...It has nothing to do with "you welt your legs" aspect. If you are welting then you are not sailing properly!
I guess I did not make that point clearly.

Our furling system worked perfectly fine.

The problem was the propensity to clip our ankle bones on the old inboard clamp-on blocks while traversing the side-deck -- usually while docked or anchored.


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post #15 of 68 Old 11-14-2008
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Jody-

JRP was "welting" his ankles... the older Schaefer blocks were at the perfect height to do that and stuck out just far enough to do so regularly.

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her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

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post #16 of 68 Old 11-14-2008
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Quote:
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The problem was the propensity to clip our ankle bones on the old inboard clamp-on blocks while traversing the side-deck
Wimp - Heck a little bruising and bleeding makes the classic "tearing up $100 bills while taking a shower" description of Sailing all the better ....... Just what I needed another excuse to spend a couple hundred more on the boat ......

Stan
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post #17 of 68 Old 11-15-2008
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Ah, I miss the days when I was a GOOD Harken customer. I bought over 100 18 foot long mainsheet traveler tracks and 150 mainsheet cars in one pop, then bought a slightly smaller quantity a short time later. They didn't go on boats, they went on greenhouses! I could get my own boat hardware added on to the orders for some really good discounts!
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post #18 of 68 Old 11-16-2008
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Quote:
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You can still pull the insert free by over-tightening the screws...it is a lousy design and Harken knows it.
How did over-tightening something become the manufacturer's fault. Given that philosophy, a big enough tool will find fault with any design.


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post #19 of 68 Old 11-16-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRPollard View Post
I guess I did not make that point clearly.

Our furling system worked perfectly fine.

The problem was the propensity to clip our ankle bones on the old inboard clamp-on blocks while traversing the side-deck -- usually while docked or anchored.
john, couldn't you have flipped the blocks so they were sticking outboard?

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post #20 of 68 Old 11-16-2008
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Can anyone answer me what is the benefit of running the furlig line like this?

I had a similar setup on my boat when I purchased it, but I changed it after a while and moved the line up to the left "cockpit winch" instead. I felt it has worked better for me. Now I have a proper rope clutch for it and so on (there was only a clam cleat for it to begin with)..

The pictures arent perfect for illustrating, but you should be able to see the furlig line to the left on the top picture, and over the cabin (trough the rope clutch and around the left "cockpit winch") on the lower picture.



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