Furling Line Hardware -- A New Option - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 68 Old 11-16-2008 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wchevron View Post
john, couldn't you have flipped the blocks so they were sticking outboard?
WChevron,

Nope. The line would then ride against the mounting hardware rather than on the block. Think about it, you'll see what I mean.

That is the advantage of the Schaefer "Clear Step" and these new Harken OSLBAs. They are designed so the furling line when led outboard is both held captive and runs against the block fairlead.


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post #22 of 68 Old 11-16-2008 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cerveza View Post
Can anyone answer me what is the benefit of running the furlig line like this?
The benefit is that you don't have a tripping line running across your foredeck!


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post #23 of 68 Old 11-16-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRPollard View Post
WChevron,

Nope. The line would then ride against the mounting hardware rather than on the block. Think about it, you'll see what I mean.

That is the advantage of the Schaefer "Clear Step" and these new Harken OSLBAs. They are designed so the furling line when led outboard is both held captive and runs against the block fairlead.
john, i see what you mean. i just ordered a couple of the garhauer ones. i currently have the clamp on bulls eye type. although a little different than the schafer style. over the years, the plastic has worn a groove in it from the sheet rubbing on it.

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post #24 of 68 Old 11-16-2008
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Andre-

I was using one of the 4702 stanchion blocks, similar to this one:



Given that I had a sprained wrist at the time and a wrist brace on.. and three of the four screws tightened up just fine, and the last one pulled free without even me straining... I seriously doubt it was my "overtightening" it. I didn't feel the block would work under the loads required of it with just three of four screws holding it in place, since they are the only things holding it to the stanchion. I stand by my previous statement—the stanchion mount on these blocks are a piss-poor design and Harken knows it.
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How did over-tightening something become the manufacturer's fault. Given that philosophy, a big enough tool will find fault with any design.

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post #25 of 68 Old 11-16-2008 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the cautionary note, SD.

But I want to add that I had no such problems when installing our OSLBAs.

They snugged up nicely with the allen key. I did not use the "long arm" of the key, as I felt the short arm was adequate to the job.

As a matter of fact, I plan to replace the remaining pulpit blocks with the model SD embedded above.


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post #26 of 68 Old 11-17-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Andre-
I seriously doubt it was my "overtightening" it.
Sorry SD, I must be getting "oldtimers" disease. I was sure I read somewhere in your earlier post something like "You can still pull the insert free by over-tightening the screws".

Must have got it wrong again. Damn!!


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post #27 of 68 Old 11-17-2008
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Looks nice and clean, thanks for the heads up John.

Dictated, but not read.
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post #28 of 68 Old 09-18-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Andre-

I was using one of the 4702 stanchion blocks, similar to this one:



Given that I had a sprained wrist at the time and a wrist brace on.. and three of the four screws tightened up just fine, and the last one pulled free without even me straining... I seriously doubt it was my "overtightening" it. I didn't feel the block would work under the loads required of it with just three of four screws holding it in place, since they are the only things holding it to the stanchion. I stand by my previous statement—the stanchion mount on these blocks are a piss-poor design and Harken knows it.
Just had EXACTLY the same thing happen to me with this design last week...

The little metal insert on the last bolt I tightened pulled out with little effort.
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post #29 of 68 Old 09-19-2010
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We installed that nifty Harken kit (#7404) start of last season to replace a more cumbersome failing old set of fairleads and blocks, and did not encounter the insert pullout failure during installation (I hadn't been aware of it), so either it was fixed or not all have it. The furling line is now outboard of the stanchions and has been performing flawlessly.

Last edited by floatsome; 09-19-2010 at 05:25 AM.
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post #30 of 68 Old 11-26-2010
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John and others, thank you for posting all this great information which was quite useful to me for my upgrade. Prior to my upgrade, the line was neatly run through bulls-eyes on the inboard side of the bullwarks...but it had it's issues so I decided on an upgrade. Here is my installation using a combination of the Schaefer stanchion blocks and a Harken furler lead-in AirBlock.

The Schaefer stanchion block....Nice solid construction.



To secure it to the Stanchion, line up the hole in the sheave with the hex bolt and do not over tighten. It doesn't take much to solidly secure it in place.



I'm going to try them up high (7" above the caprail) for now because I want them clearly out of the way of the amid-ship cleats, chocks and headsail travelers but I will likely lower them a bit later.





Harken lead-in furler AirBlock for the pulpit.



I'll remove the old bulls-eyes and fill the holes when I get better weather.



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Last edited by Bilgewater; 11-26-2010 at 08:50 PM.
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