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  #51  
Old 04-10-2011
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jet,

Those photos are great and very helpful! Don't worry about the spring cleaning.

In my view, you have a very standard configuration. The ratchet block is definitely for the termination at the cockpit, and the regular block is for forward at the bow pulpit just before the line enters the furler drum.

The ratchet block needs to be spun around and mounted so that it is facing forward and inward somewhat toward the cockpit (not completely opposite how you have it now in the photo, more like spun 90-110 degrees counterclockwise). Then you can very easily mount the small cleat on either the flat surface of the cockpit coaming or the surface of the coaming that cants down to the narrow side-deck, somewhere forward of the pulpit (typically 1.5-2' forward of the block).

I think you can get this set-up very nicely. You should have pretty good access to the underside of the deck via the locker (or an aft cabin?) for mounting that small cleat.
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  #52  
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Originally Posted by JohnRPollard View Post
jet,

Those photos are great and very helpful! Don't worry about the spring cleaning.

In my view, you have a very standard configuration. The ratchet block is definitely for the termination at the cockpit, and the regular block is for forward at the bow pulpit just before the line enters the furler drum.

The ratchet block needs to be spun around and mounted so that it is facing forward and inward somewhat toward the cockpit (not completely opposite how you have it now in the photo, more like spun 90-110 degrees counterclockwise). Then you can very easily mount the small cleat on either the flat surface of the cockpit coaming or the surface of the coaming that cants down to the narrow side-deck, somewhere forward of the pulpit (typically 1.5-2' forward of the block).

I think you can get this set-up very nicely. You should have pretty good access to the underside of the deck via the locker (or an aft cabin?) for mounting that small cleat.
Thanks!
That makes sense, I will look at that route, I was also thinking of setting the cleat on the teak block aft of the jib winch cam cleat. That cleat could stand to be moved a bit anyways.
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Old 04-11-2011
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Here is the finished product. How does it look?[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 04-11-2011
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Looks fine, jet. You shouldn't need the winch normally, but it's in a good spot if you ever do. If the location of that cleat ends up interfering in unexpected ways, over the side of the coaming would be my next choice.

[The only suggestion I might have would be to whip the end of the furling line. If you don't have materials for whipping, at minimum tightly wrap some tape around it near the end and then cut through the tape and remove that frayed end.]

I'd also now like to see you tackle those weeds down in the pavers.
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Last edited by JohnRPollard; 04-11-2011 at 04:21 PM.
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Thanks for everything. I appreciate the tip about whipping but I just used that yellow line so it would show up easily in the pics. The real furling line is whipped and ready to go.

The weed in the pavers are up as soon as the boat goes in the water this week
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Old 04-13-2011
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Hey John just looked at this thread and noticed that your and Jet's lines run outboard on the stanchions. Any particular reason for that??
I like to keep that line inboard as not to interfere with my jib sheet.
Also when my genoa is unfurled I don't really have to cleat it off as the wind and jib sheets don't put tension on it. I only cleat this line off when I "reef" the jib and or when fully rolled up.


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Hey John just looked at this thread and noticed that your and Jet's lines run outboard on the stanchions. Any particular reason for that??
I like to keep that line inboard as not to interfere with my jib sheet.
Also when my genoa is unfurled I don't really have to cleat it off as the wind and jib sheets don't put tension on it. I only cleat this line off when I "reef" the jib and or when fully rolled up....
Hi EJO,

Not sure if you had time to read my opening post to this thread, but the main idea of these OSLBA and other similar "outboard" blocks is to clean-up and reduce tripping hazards where folks are walking along the side-decks. In my case, the inboard blocks like you have were at just the right height that we constantly clipped our ankles on them. By placing the lead blocks and furling line outboard, our side decks are cleared up and easier to maneuver on. The line runs smoother, too.

Also, we do not experience any interference with the jib sheets. Outboard lead blocks are not new -- they seem to be the most common type nowadays. I haven't heard many if any complaints about jib-sheet interference. But, I could see where on certain configurations it might be a consideration.

As for cleating, you're right, there's really no need to cleat the furling line when the jib is unfurled, as the line is "lazy" at that point. However, the cleat is often the best place to neatly store the bitter end until it's needed again.
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Thumbs up

Hi John thanks for the explanation and my apologies for not reading all posts. I'm a pictures guy (LOL) and just saw those and did see the abbreviation OSLBA and thought it was some kind of twitter language (LOL) which I'm not too familiar with.
I can see your point(s) and luckily my side boards are wide enough that I don't have the ankle problem.
Happy sailing and love your "real" boat.
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Old 06-07-2011
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Just to be different I've just installed these.
Line guides and padeyes | Colligo Marine
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sam :-)
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Old 06-17-2011
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Just to be different I've just installed these.
Line guides and padeyes | Colligo Marine
I think they're the cat's ass!
sam :-)
Those are interesting, I hadn't seen them previously.

They seem to be an outboard version of the standard stanchion mounted bullseye fairlead. One thing we've talked about, is the friction that these introduce when the line passes through them and bends around at an angle. Bullseyes seem to work best at keeping a straight line captive.

Give us some feedback as you get a chance to test them out. Thanks, and nice install, by the way.
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