Corrosion prventative for crimp connectors

pdqaltair · #1 (**permalink**) 11-16-2008

There is a good thread running regarding heat sealed connectors. My question concerns whether there are good corrosion preventing compounds that can be put inside the crimp. Specifically, I had trouble with a connector on deck that was chronically wet and would corrode inside, and between the ring and the terminal. I took to putting a very heavy water proof grease in both areas, and the problem is gone. However, using grease in a location (main panel or sub-panel, for example) where a fire is possible is another matter. The amount of grease required is, of course, ridiculously small after you clean-up.

k1vsk · #2 (**permalink**) 11-16-2008

About the best thing I have found while sealing coax connectors on my ham radio antennas over the decades is a product called coax-seal. It is a ply able .non-adhesive caulk that is messy to remove but as you virtually never have to remove it, that's a small price to pay.
Check any amateur radio vendor web site (HRO, ASE, etc) as it's quite easy to find.

Putting something inside a crimp is more problematic. You have hit on the fundamental issue with crimps not being a very good option unless the connection is first soldered and then sealed from the outside. A crimp is useful only to physically secure an otherwise good connection from parting.

knothead · #3 (**permalink**) 11-16-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdqaltair

There is a good thread running regarding heat sealed connectors. My question concerns whether there are good corrosion preventing compounds that can be put inside the crimp. Specifically, I had trouble with a connector on deck that was chronically wet and would corrode inside, and between the ring and the terminal. I took to putting a very heavy water proof grease in both areas, and the problem is gone. However, using grease in a location (main panel or sub-panel, for example) where a fire is possible is another matter. The amount of grease required is, of course, ridiculously small after you clean-up.

I can't believe that you use crimp connectors. They are really bad. Soldering is the only way to go. I hope others will chime in about their opinions on the matter.

k1vsk · #4 (**permalink**) 11-16-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by knothead

I can't believe that you use crimp connectors. They are really bad. Soldering is the only way to go. I hope others will chime in about their opinions on the matter.

I believe others will argue that crimp connectors are the recommended practice aboard boats. The problem is these recommendations are written to the lowest common denominator but most folks seem to take them as religious gospel.

As a practical matter, most people never crimp properly or know how to solder properly. Done correctly, soldering is the best electrical connection possible as long as the connection is not subject to stress which it obviously can be on a boat; hence, the recommendation to crimp connections. The single best form of connection is do both and properly seal it to preclude moisture penetration.

sailaway21 · #5 (**permalink**) 11-16-2008

Knotty,
You just made my CD Christmas list!

Altair,
Please refer to the following list of threads on the matter. Call me if anything remains unclear. http://www.sailnet.com/forums/search...earchid=157161

sailaway21 · #6 (**permalink**) 11-16-2008

k1vsk,
Knotty's post was facetious.

FarCry · #7 (**permalink**) 11-16-2008

I have been using Ilsco - Electrical connectors, compression, taps, splicers, grounding and more
for over 20 years on crimp and lug type connections that are exposed to the elements. I have had the opportunity to cut into connections that were over 15 years old and the copper wire was still nice and shiny after wiping this product off. A small tube will last for thousands of small crimp connections like those found on a small boat. There are other brands like No-OX that work well too. Most electrical supply houses will have one brand or another in stock as do many home improvement stores.