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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 11-16-2008
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Antifreeze

I have a Volvo MD2b 25hp diesel raw water cooled engine. I was advised by previous owner to put in a gallon of antifreeze (marine) to prevent freezing. Temps are getting down into the low 30's here this week so I did what he said. I disconnected the intake hose and started the engine and sucked in a gallon of antifreeze. My question is...Does this sound right to experienced diesel owners. Is there additional winterizing that would be needed?

Thank you for any assistance.

Rick
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Did you see antifreeze discharging from the exhaust? Depending on the length of the exhaust hose and size of the water lift muffler, it could require more than 1 gallon.

Do you also need advice on winterizing the water system, plumbing, head(s), etc?
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Thank you. No I didn't check the exhaust. I am using the West marine pink stuff. I will get more.

Yes I could use advice on other systems.

The head isn't working so not an issue.

There IS water in the water tank but it wasn't replenished from last winter. Should I try to pump it all out?

Thank you again!
Rick
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I hope you're using the non-toxic antifreeze, not the automotive type antifreeze.
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I don't know the layout of your particular engine, but if you have a heat exchanger, it will require winterization as well, plus possibly the thermostat. Contact your engine maker.

Also, you might want to pour antifreeze in the water muffler, and, after you dry it out, put some in the bilges. If water seeps into the boat in the winter, it won't freeze in the bilges if it meets undiluted anti-freeze. This advice is unnecessary if you have a garboard plug, but few modern boats do.

It is simpler to winterize FWC cooled engines, because you can simply do the raw water circuit and pour antifreeze in the expansion cap in the heat exchanger.
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Automotive AF and Marine AF have the same toxicity to fish

Please, don't believe me. Look up MSDS sheets on both and see what the numbers say for fish. No difference. Both are pollutants that add significant chemical oxygen demand (~5000 times stronger than sewage), so don't discharge either. They don't put that on the label. Either AF type is recyclable.

HOWEVER, the toxicity difference for people is real. That is where marine AF shines. NEVER use automotive AF in a potable system.
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Old 11-17-2008
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I would have shut off the raw water inlet seacock and then drained the block at the tap provided for that purpose (all engines have them, don't they??)
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Old 11-17-2008
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harp :

This anti-freeze trick does not work easily (probably not at all) for a raw water cooled motor. Unless the motor is hot and thermostat is open (it does not stay open for long anyway as it opens and shuts), the anti-freeze has no way of getting into the cylinder heads and blocks, and simply by-passes them to run straight out of the exhaust pipe. Check out page 11 of this manual....

http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/Vo...1C_D_17C_D.pdf

Your anti-freeze will enter via the hose close to arrow 21, and the coolant entry to the exhaust manifold is that wee T-piece you see under the exhaust manifold (about 3/8 the way along it, from L to R). If the thermostat under the cover at 17 is closed, then the coolant does not enter the T-peice, but just by-passes the motor, runs from R to L along the wee hose at the top (often via raised syphon break), and into the exhaust elbow.

Also check out page 45. Page 10 shows your motor, or very similar, but the principle is the same.

This one needs a bit more thought. Anti-freeze colourant in the exhaust just means that you have anti-freeze in the exhaust... that's all. It does not tell you if it is in the motor.

I have the Volvo MD17C, the three cylinder motor. Yours is very similar to the MD11.

The only way I found to defend that motor against freezing was to drain all three blocks and the exhaust manifold. That's a total of 4 drain plugs (items 19 on my motor picture, items 7 on your motor picture). Also, pull the coolant hoses off the gearbox, and blow the water out of it (by mouth).

If you have a deep bilge, tie some string around the plugs before you unscrew them. The plugs are expensive if you lose them. The plugs have a wee drain screw within them, but I find it just corrodes and jams.

Be careful, at -14C (7F) one night my motor froze on the canal, all the core plugs blew out, but one block was cracked a wee bit. It still weeps, three years later. A weep is not terminal to a raw water-cooled motor, unless it weeps into the oil. (it's not). Such temperatures are rare here, but it was a real heart-stopper, and very nearly wrote off the motor completely. I went back to the boat, started the motor, and water was flying everywhere out of the core plug covers, all of them lifted off, and were at an angle.

I will be happy to steer you through it, if you wish. It isn't a lot of work. The anti-freeze trick is not likely to work at all though, so be careful.

Last edited by Rockter; 11-17-2008 at 05:05 AM.
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Thank you all,

Rockter,

One thing I always do is shut off the raw water intake and run the engine for another 30 sec.

Might it be possible that since the thermostat didn't open there is little or no water in the block or intakes?

Rick

Might it be possible that there is little
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harp :

There will be plenty in the exhaust and gearbox, but it is difficult to get any into the motor if the thermostat is shut, and even when it opens, it does not open for long, hence the need? to drain the system.

It might be possible to run the anti freeze in a bail-and-bucket loop, with the motor under load. Put the cooland intake into a bucket of the brew, and catch the spent exhaust water in another bucket. Then use a bailer to transfer the spent brew from the exhaust bucket to the intake bucket.

That's likely to be a bit of a chore, and exhaust gases will be in your face together with that toxic anti-freze. It really is toxic stuff.

Keep cats away from it. It's sweet to them, and they get poisoned.

It's easier to drain it, methinks.

Last edited by Rockter; 11-17-2008 at 03:56 PM.
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