I have power on the hard, and mildew, yuck! - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 28 Old 12-10-2008 Thread Starter
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I have power on the hard, and mildew, yuck!

OK, so our boat is now on the hard. And I have electricity. That's right, she is now plugged into a 30 amp service.

I noticed a lot of mildew on the ceiling in the forward stateroom. There was also condensation (droplets) on the inside of the hatches up front. The relative humidity was 84% according to the guage in the cabin.

I put up a temporary tarp so I could open one of the hatches. And I'm building a big, sailnet-inspired, pvc-framed tarp in the next few weeks.

Is there anything else that I can do to lower the humidity and keep the mildew at bay? I'm thinking about putting a small dehumidifier next to the sink, so that it will automatically drain out. (The hatches would then be closed.) Maybe a 110v fan would keep the air moving too.
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post #2 of 28 Old 12-10-2008
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Bene505—

A big open tub of calcium Chloride would help. Also, ventilation would help. Moving air throughout the boat is always a good thing. Wiping down the surfaces with mildew killer, rinsing and then wiping them down with lemon oil or vinegar will go a long way to preventing mold/mildew.

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post #3 of 28 Old 12-10-2008
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Moisture

When you built your tarp/cover, don't "hermitcally" seal it. What I mean is leave a small opening in the front, near the pulput, and stern. If you do it right, no rain or snow will get into or onto the boat, but you'll have enough area to get air flow which should help reduce moister. Shrink Wrapped boats often have a lot of moisture problems, because thy are too well sealed.

Also, when you put on the cover, some folks add a fender or two on each side the that cover goes over. This creates another gap for a small amount of airflow as the cover heats up (much like a chimney) from the sun.

Visit your boat open and open the hatches under the cover when you visit. Make sure the cover is flipped open a little when you visit so that fresh air can circulate. A fan will help, but the fresh air needs to be allowed to get to the move to move the stale air away.

Make sure all your bilge is dry and that you have just enough anitfreeze in the head to cover the seals. You don't need a full bowl. Same thing with the water tanks. Pump out all of the fresh water, then add non-toxic AF and pump it out until just enough is availble to fill the lines. NO need to have a full water tank of liquid.

I vist my boat every few weeks and after a huge snowstorm to check the cover. I like to broom off the cover of heavy snow so that the frame doesn't crush under the weight. I once forgot to do this and it poured rain a few days later and then froze making the huge and heavy blocks of snow and ice in some depressions that formed under weight.

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post #4 of 28 Old 12-10-2008 Thread Starter
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Because of some portlight leaks, I left the bilge with a good amount of antifreeze in it. All the bilges actually. Now that those portlights are coverd by a tarp, I'll pump out the bilges and mop them dry. They could use a good mopping anyway.

I'll also take your advice on the bowls, one of which is half full with pure antifreeze.

I'm a little reluctant to wipe things down with vinegar, but may try it.
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I (dutifully) seached the sailnet site for a dehumidifier and didn't find one. Maybe I didn't search correctly?

I'm thinking about going to Target and getting a 100v dehumidifier. My only concern is what happens when the drips of water that are going down my sink drain get to the spot where it's below freezing. There will be either stalactites outside the boat, stalagmites on the ground, or a frozen (possibly injured) seacock. Maybe all three.

BTW, since I have internet too (Can you believe this?), I'm thinking about rigging a simple webcam aimed at the temp, humidity, and atmospheric pressure gauges. And while typing this, I realized that the computer to run the webcam will use a few watts and have a fan too. This just keeps getting better. I guess I ought to post the URL on sailnet.
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post #6 of 28 Old 12-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bene505 View Post
Is there anything else that I can do to lower the humidity and keep the mildew at bay?
A couple 25-40w lights on a timer will help

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post #7 of 28 Old 12-10-2008
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i believe Paul is talking about a air dryer
1458DAVIS AIR DRYER 1000
DAVIS AIR DRYER 1000 Air-Dryr153; Mildew Fighter Say Goodbye to Mold, Mildew and Moisture 1458 Air-Dryr 1000. Handles up to 1000 cubic feet of living space. Draws only 1.1 amps,130 watts. Circular unit measu
List Price: $68
Click for price!
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post #8 of 28 Old 12-10-2008
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Bene505, you over thinking

I see you have your boat in New England, so is mine. In the winter, it's pretty dry here, so a lot of moisture in the air isn't really an issue.

Getting and keeping the water out of the boat is key. Keeping the decks of the boat dry is the job of the cover. Keeping the bilge dry, low water in the head and water tanks, coupled with a a few damp-x (calcium chloride) tubs, should be more than adequate. No need for active dehumidifier or webcams, etc. Visit your boat frequently and dry the bilge and wipe the walls for any condensate and you'll be fine. Make sure you remove all cushions , clothes, and other soft goods from the boat and sore them in a dry place.

When spring rolls around, spray bottle a weak bleach solution on the interior walls and surfaces and your done. You're going to get some mildew/mold in a boat over the winter if you store it covered outside. Starting dry and keeping it dry will significantly minimize the mildew in the spring.

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post #9 of 28 Old 12-10-2008 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubb2 View Post
i believe Paul is talking about a air dryer
1458DAVIS AIR DRYER 1000
DAVIS AIR DRYER 1000 Air-Dryr153; Mildew Fighter Say Goodbye to Mold, Mildew and Moisture 1458 Air-Dryr 1000. Handles up to 1000 cubic feet of living space. Draws only 1.1 amps,130 watts. Circular unit measu
List Price: $68
Click for price!


That's just a heater, right? I thought heaters were a bad idea.
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post #10 of 28 Old 12-10-2008
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Real low watts 130, compared to 750 to 1500 for a electric space heater
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