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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 12-15-2008
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Another story!

First for those who are not afraid by mathematics, have a look at the very interesting web page:
- Tuning an anchor rode : Tuning an Anchor Rode

Quote:
Danjcon: How much chain can I use?
The main purpose of the chain is to attach the anchor to the boat, or if you prefer the boat to the anchor.
Its main advantage is to be the best mean to avoid chaffing of the rode to the sea bottom (sometime very aggressive)
- For this reason a chain length of one or max two times the length of your boat is far enough, and then an elastic rode: Nylon rope...

Don’t listen to people who says
Quote:
Add a kellet to your arsenal
as the efficiency of a kellet (angel – Chum – Sentinel..) is nearly nothing (see the previous web page)

Don’t listen either to people who says
Quote:
Usually more chain is better for holding power.
This is wrong; the realty is more RODE is better for holding as it will decrease the pulling angle.

The best rode is a rode with enough ELASTICITY (chain doesn’t have elasticity – Nylon YES), so take enough chain to avoid chaffing of the rode on the sea bottom, and then Nylon rope

If you want to save more weight, look at “NEW GEN” anchors, as they are by far more efficient, you can decrease the anchor weight by one to two sizes.

Joăo
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  #12  
Old 12-15-2008
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I was thinking;

Some have more chain out than Marley's ghost!!

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  #13  
Old 12-15-2008
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Cam-

You do know that they do still make manual windlasses that do not require electricity or batteries to operate, right???? Not everyone is as lazy as you...
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  #14  
Old 12-15-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
As for bow rollers, it really depends on how your foredeck is setup. A photo of it would help...as would saying what 31' sailboat you have.

I have a 1971 31' Seafarer Yawl - Bill Tripp design. The bow is shown below.



I have a Kingston model BR-20 anchor roller with a Delta 22# anchor. I am trying to determine the best way to attach the roller. I think the chain stopper is a good idea, but I'm not sure how to configure in the space provided.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Dan
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Dan—

IMHO, you'd be better off running the bow lines across to the cleat on the opposite side, rather than to the one on the same side, as the line would lead far more fair and probably chafe less, since they'd be making a less sharp turn and wouldn't be rubbing against the pulpit stanchions.



You'd probably have to relocate the cleats and the chain pipe to accommodate the anchor roller and chain stopper—since your foredeck is almost as small as the one on my boat.

If you can put a bigger image of the foredeck up in your picasa account as well as say how big the bow chocks are in inches, I can see if I can draw something up that might work for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjcon View Post
I have a 1971 31' Seafarer Yawl - Bill Tripp design. The bow is shown below.



I have a Kingston model BR-20 anchor roller with a Delta 22# anchor. I am trying to determine the best way to attach the roller. I think the chain stopper is a good idea, but I'm not sure how to configure in the space provided.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Dan
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #16  
Old 12-15-2008
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I think this is a larger image. The bow chocks are about 8 inches long. I was planning to replace them with smaller chocks to match the other ones - 6 inches long, and move them further aft, just ahead of the pulpit post. That would allow for a place to put the bow roller. I could add a cleat further back. Not sure what to do with the hause pipe, since that is directly above the space where the anchor rode is stowed.
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Old 12-16-2008
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Don't go down in size on the cleats. As it is, your cleats are a bit undersized IMHO. A 10" cleat can handle two 5/8" lines. An 8" cleat can only handle two 1/2" lines well. This is based on the rule of thumb that a cleat can handle two lines 1/16 its length in diameter, which is pretty accurate IMHO.

Looking at the photo of your foredeck, what I'd do if I had your boat is move the bow chocks aft along the toe rail so the forward end lines up just aft of the stanchions. Then I'd mount the bow roller over the starboard side toe rail, angled slightly to starboard, with a teak block supporting the aft end of the roller. I'd add a 4" mooring bitt to the deck in front of the chain pipe, to secure the chain to.

This leaves you the option of adding a vertical drum windlass aft of the chainpipe that could have the chain fall into the chainpipe.
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Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
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Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
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