Low buck projects- Let's see 'em! - Page 25 - SailNet Community
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post #241 of 1420 Old 08-27-2011
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New Cabin Door and AC Housing

So, recently, my son and I did a little work on his Newport 30.
1. For liveaboard, he needed an easier in/out door than the 3 planks. Hinged door made of oak and plexi, slides into the companionway frame. $65


2. To accomodate an AC unit on the forward hatch, we built a housing (not including the AC unit) out of plywood we already had from a cabinet project. $0, white paint and laquer, $10
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post #242 of 1420 Old 08-28-2011
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How very odd! I posted a reply and question once and it seems to have disappeared. This is around the sixth time in the last week the site has eaten one of my posts. Now, three of them were during the time of troubles and time-outs, so that is understandable - but I do not understand the three in the last few days.
======================================

This hatchboard project is brilliant, Sublime! How do you intend to affix the structures to your bulkhead?

Tom

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Up next is something in progress. It's for holding my companionway hatch boards. They'll hold the boards vertically against a bulkhead. It's cedar, a reason to use my router, and held together with dowels, chewing gum and carefully triangulated dental floss (I kid, I kid...except for the dowels). Total cost so far is $2.47 + tax. Upon reviewing my design (I picked up all 4 hatchboards at once-more hefty than I had figured), I will make some gussets to support the floor from underneath. I had the stain and finish left over from a cabinet I had made. It matches the interior of the boat just perfectly!

I need to get the screws for mounting. That could double the cost of this project. Craps! Maybe I can find a coupon.


T. P. Donnelly
S/V Tranquility Base
1984 Islander 30 Bahama
Pasadena, MD

Last edited by dacap06; 08-28-2011 at 08:18 PM.
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post #243 of 1420 Old 08-28-2011
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$1 Dinghy Bilge Pump



I picked up several of these water guns for my grandkids at the dollar store. They have great fun squirting each other but Jade came up with an ingenious use: she used it to suck out the pint or so of water sloshing around in the bottom of her kayak. Since then, we've used them on both of our dinghies and on Chiquita as well as the kayak. Chiquita does not really have a deep bilge so any water that makes its way aboard sloshes all over. I have both an electric and a manual bilge pump aboard but neither gets every last drop. This stick type water gun is just the ticket.



Jade Rodriguez, inventor of the $1 bilge pump
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post #244 of 1420 Old 08-29-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dacap06 View Post

This hatchboard project is brilliant, Sublime! How do you intend to affix the structures to your bulkhead?

Tom

I can get to the other side of the bulkhead so I'm going to run screws through and into the holders with some wood to help "spread the load".
The last few pieces of this project are curing. I used a drill press so I have straight holes. I've got the day off tomorrow so hopefully I'll get to install them. If I manage to get them level, I'll be quite proud. If not, then I did it on purpose to help water drain.


Meanwhile, with my 3am start to work, I'm a bit useless this afternoon. So, I decided to take care of a safety issue one of my other boats, s/v Penelope, while under the comforts of airconditioning and a ceiling fan. She's a 19' dinghy-self righting for the most part, stable enough to stand on the gunwale but a capsize resulting in me thrown into the drink is certainly possible. Her freeboard is tall enough that it'd take some grunt work to haul yourself over if you happen to be tired.
Also, I've got some friends with kids whom Penelope has just charmed the socks off of. They'd like to go for a swim and not have to be yanked back in.

However she has some classic lines and I wasn't keen on the idea of adding a metal or plastic ladder, ruining her postcard good looks. With $20 worth of rope, I wove a two rung ladder which goes over a cleat to hang and stows quite nicely.

This'll do.


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Last edited by Sublime; 08-29-2011 at 05:50 PM.
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post #245 of 1420 Old 08-29-2011
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With $20 worth of rope, I wove a two rung ladder which goes over a cleat to hang and stows quite nicely.
Clever, and nicely done, Sublime!

I'm sorry to see you have some repair to do, though. It would appear that your outboard motor has broken through the hull where you stowed it.

T. P. Donnelly
S/V Tranquility Base
1984 Islander 30 Bahama
Pasadena, MD
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post #246 of 1420 Old 08-29-2011
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that's why he made the ladder

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post #247 of 1420 Old 08-29-2011
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Clever, and nicely done, Sublime!

I'm sorry to see you have some repair to do, though. It would appear that your outboard motor has broken through the hull where you stowed it.


That hole is for letting the water out.


Actually it's a handy little open trunk there which lets you work on the motor without having to hang out over the transom. You've got deck on either side of the motor. You could sleep there and cuddle the motor all night long if you so weirdly desired. But it's quite useful when the powerboats come by with a big wake and toss you about the boat. Also helps dropped tools go "ker-thunk" versus "ker-plunk".
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post #248 of 1420 Old 08-30-2011
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Hatchboard holder complete.


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A ship in harbor is safe, but that's not why ships are built.

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2001 Drascombe Lugger-Penelope
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post #249 of 1420 Old 08-30-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arknoah View Post
I had much the same idea for my boat. Can you list some of the ways you measured and put this together so I can have a bit more into to get started on my own? Yours looks absolutely great!
All measuring and test fitting was done with the gas can in place.

I first measured the depth, leaving a little room for the Dri-Dek flooring that I plan to install. The only board that I actually 'ripped' was the bottom board on the front, the rest were left full width.

I made a basic framework with 4 short boards screwed together, and put it in place over the gas can.


I took a measurement across the back of the aft-most section, then played with the miter saw until I had the angle. Once the angle was right, I cut the board to length using the miter saw and paying attention to get the direction of the miter right. After that, it was measure, cut, attach, measure, cut, attach until it was done.

Some light sanding, and a heavy dose of spar varnish finished the project.

It is not attached to the boat in any way (except gravity) and removes in one piece. You can't stand on it, but it is surprisingly sturdy resting on the gas can. I got lucky enough with size that I can also carry 2 one pound propane cylinders under it to run my BBQ.

Edit: Thanks for the compliment.

Last edited by PaulfromNWOnt; 08-30-2011 at 05:09 PM. Reason: Manners
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post #250 of 1420 Old 08-30-2011
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We like to swim, we don't like climbing over the stern rail, we wanted the strength of the rail. Here is my "Stern Rail Cutaway"



Full description

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